PeterW

nothing libelous in that, and consequential damages for what..? OP hasn’t made a loss..?

Try this https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F290952966223

Just don’t complicate and put the towel rad on the radiator circuit and be done with it ...

que..? Have you got an indirect tank ..? So are going to put the coil into the heating system and then take the hot from this into the UFH..??

not really as G3 doesn’t apply to buffer tanks as they are not used to hold wholesome hot water, or are not used to heat other water. It’s open to interpretation as to whether it is “all tanks” as the latter point could refer to an indirect buffer tank. The usual issue is that a standard cylinder can’t cope with more than 1.6bar, but a decent stainless buffer can cope with more than that but is twice the price.

Yes - but your buffer has to be indirect so the coil is pressurized as part of the boiler circuit and the tank then feeds the UFH with either a small header or just a small expansion vessel.

Is this for a DIY build or are you writing a spec ..? I would let the TF contractor decide otherwise.

Increase in water pressure from the street is the usual one. Or a pipe coming lose from a clip allowing it to vibrate.

Water hammer most likely. Put a 1 litre expansion vessel on the cold inlet to the water heater (assuming its in a cupboard..?)

nope as it’s flammable so the cables would drop in the event of a fire.

I would caution making such a statement ..! We have members on here with 3-400sqm houses that are heated with 6Kw heat pumps as they have built in inherent air tightness and thermal elements that ensure the building requires very little heat load. What size are you building, and what is the construction method ..??

That is a vey grey area ..!! Has the architect just taken an Ordnance Survey map and pasted it into a drawing of his own ..?? If he hasn’t credited the source as Ordnance Survey then he is in breach of his license to use. They are not expensive (£11 IIRC) so why your Neighbour isn’t doing his own is a surprise to me. TBH the overall IPR doesn’t belong to you so nothing you can do, it would be up to the architect to take any action anyway.

Try CCF with that size deal (72 boards to a pallet at 12.5mm) so you need 5 pallets or so.

yep done that - Mira ones come with a 10m control cable. Only downside is the cold “leg” from the unit to the outlet but you could say that’s no worse than the dead leg from the tank to the shower mixer in a normal shower.

Yep fitted a couple. Mira ones are nice - they are easy to fit and well made. They are good as you only need to run single pipes to outlets - I’ve done one with a bath filler and that’s good as you basically push the button and it fills the bath to correct level and temperature then switches off. They are also a fair bit more accurate on the temperature blending than a wax cap, but if you do get a problem then they do get a bit expensive.

Try one of these - fits the bill with a couple of add ons and you could always move it to the main house.

If you look through his whole site it is very informative. I’ve seen one of his surveys and they make your average home buyers survey look like a comic. This bit is very true : Every damp problem has a specific cause, and it is usually easy to fix that cause - for example, faulty guttering, external ground levels too high, concrete / cement render trapping moisture on outside walls, and so on. Our survey will outline any problems, and suggest solutions, which never include injection damp proofing! The silane based chemicals can’t work the way they are described to, yet I’ve seen them suggested where wholly Inappropriate by bank and mortgage company surveyors that suggest you can “fix” damp into this way. As he says repeatedly, find the cause of then problem first ...

Before you panic, read this... https://www.heritage-house.org/damp-and-condensation/the-ping-prong-meter-guilty-of-fraud.html

it used to be free but has now been updated and you have to buy it. this is still free http://slateroofers.org/downloads/lead_flashing_guide.pdf

I would drop a root barrier in now on your side of the boundary about 12” in from the row. It will stop any roots drawing water from your side too in the even you want to plant up that side.

My last JCB went back with a piece of roof batten attached to the key as I dropped the black key and immobilizer fob on the ground and it took 20 mins to find the feckin thing ...

There are plenty on Alibaba ... however purchasing from the King Pigeon Communication Company may be at your risk ....

It’s not WRAS approved and never could be as there is no class one air gap between the incoming rainwater and the outgoing “clean” water. It’s also designed by marketing not engineers as the bottom 10” filter housing can’t be removed as it’s too close to the bottom of the casing .... For double the price of that, you can get something like a Osmosea Classic CL300, which can do 300 litres an hour from basically any watercourse / water source and is a full reverse osmosis system. Coupled to a big tank, it would basically provide everything you need, just put a big filter pack on the front and suck the contents of the quarry up ...

photos ..???

Ahhh ok ..!