PeterW

A wind post is a steel that is placed vertical in a long wall that has no other buttressing to stop it bending or flexing under wind load. It will be bolted down to the foundations and is only used when the walls are in excess of a certain distance. The SE would need to have designed it in so they should know about it !!

Why are you worried ..?

That is a slightly subjective statement, and the bigger issue with GSHP is cost, both initial capital and TCO. Overall life and cost per useful kWh produced for ASHP (including RHI) is better than for GSHP.

For the sake of £30 and ease install, I would do it all in ducting and then you have a much reduced chance of damaging the pipe.

You’ve never seen a Fein Bi-Metal blade then .... Old expression - “knife through butter...!”

how long is the bund you need to cover ..? 5-7 plants per metre is a good estimate - we use this company for most of ours. https://www.hedgesdirect.co.uk/acatalog/Blackthorn-based-40-60-cm-bare-rootsx100.html#SID=330 Enough in that pack for 15-20m. If you need tree guards I’ve got about 3,000 spare somewhere ... someone didn’t read that there were 10 spirals of 10 per pack....... not 10 per pack ...

They can - pull the white seal off and cut the tube and put it back on

B will snap, you can get a standard ramp profile but I wound be putting in a decent drain first to stop the water rather than a barrier as water will find its way through the tiniest gap.

Spend £3 extra and buy the McAlpine one so you don’t wonder when it will come apart again ... and always use silicone lubricant on the seals.

Depends who you go with. Access Training and the others say “working toward or have experience” so it’s a bit of a gamble on that one. Some say you have to have the tickets. Cheapest I’ve seen is Gledhill at £90, others are in the £175 mark.

Is the roof made of sheet or timber planks ..? I’d bin the current one and make one from 18mm OSB and it will be fine.

Not unusual - I’d want to see the existing install plus a set of plans. If you move the boiler you can soon exceed the maximum length for a 15mm gas supply pipe, so basically they will need to know that to give you a price.

Statutory 12 months as a minimum although the consumer legislation may say that it’s deemed longer due to expected life. But not that much in one to go wrong so it’s a bit of a punt as to how long they will last. I’ve had a Sanyo unit running for 7 years now with no servicing.

not sure that is correct any more - the block exemption removed that a while back as it creates a Cartel operation.

That looks tidy ..! I think you’ll find the floor on that cabin is under the whole unit and extends to the side - those 3x2 bearers run right the way through.

does that include the internal control unit too ..? That’s the crunch point normally as they can be £4-500 and on some ASHP you need that as without it there is no interface to operate them.

JFDI.... If you are planning on doing a thread on this, let me know and I’ll order some more storage for the server ....

it’s a competency thing .... if you work on your own equipment, and in your own home, and you are competent then it’s fine ... But when it goes wrong, be prepared ....

So a vast amount of Bauxite is shipped from Australia to Iceland to be processed as the energy costs are so low there to smelt aluminum. There it goes to China for onward processing ... still cheaper than paying the energy costs in either China or Australia to refine it ..!

Rope loops or small ratchets but ideally you don’t want a ladder in the tree while you’re doing this sort of stuff, it’s better to do it from a rope or a MEWP.

Ok - terminology ..!! A Supply I would deem is the supply pipe up to the meter. If there is no outside wall then you’ll need a very long flue, with inspection hatches where the joins are, and that will be probably £3-500 depending on length. Second option is move the boiler - depends on what’s above it and how far you want to move it. Your limitation may well be the gas supply as over a certain distance (and based on boiler size) then you may need to upgrade the whole of the boiler gas pipe from meter to boiler in 28mm pipe - either copper or Tracpipe - but that’s not a small job if you’re not changing other parts of the internal layout. Have you got a quick sketch of where you want to move things and the existing meter and boiler locations ..??

Get a decent sharpie marker and mark every single one of those logs before you take them apart ..!! Doesn’t matter what system you use, but make sure you know how they go back together. I’d number on the end grain as you can just sand off the numbers when you’re done. You’ll need a decent drill driver and patience to get the screws out of the frames where the doors and windows are fitted in. looks a nice size though.

firstly are you asking if you can move a meter yourself ..? Anything prior to the meter has to go through the Cadent or whomever you gas transporter is. No exceptions. On the boiler - I much prefer loft mounted ones now - if the gas pipework is done properly, you are much better doing that as you have a lot more flue options.

Glue it to the wall then foam it in ...

They need a ventilated void but it’s a very small flow rate.