PeterW

Sell the bricks and buy some acoustic insulation. You can’t just dry stack half a ton of masonry inside a plasterboard wall, it will end in tears.

Sounds like plantar fasciitis which I struggle with on bad days. Mine is brought on by wearing very flat shoes, so if you have gone from shoes to nothing with new carpets then it will have potentially set it off. Pain in the bottom of the heel stretching toward the toes is a classic symptom, nothing to do with carpets.

It’s more for animal / rat protection. They can easily get through a grate which is better handled with a 45 bend in the clay to direct the outflow down the course of the stream.

100mm would normally take 100 days to properly dry (and cure) so you have a while to wait. Ideally you shouldn’t get the moisture out too quickly as it will weaken the concrete - force drying after 14 days should be ok if this is only a screed but it will still take at least another two weeks with a dehumidifier to get it anywhere close to acceptable. Forcing it too quickly could also make the slab curl so be very careful and move the dehumidifier about. How big are the dips and humps that you need to use SLC..?

Get an industrial dehumidifier and get it running ASAP. Floor moisture level needs to be dropped but move the unit around so you don’t dry and crack one area. How thick is the screed..??

Yes that was my point - just lighten the cantilever area and leave the rest as Durisol.

Why not use a tall cabinet ..? You could use an integrated unit but may need to look at how the bottom edge of the door would work with a fixed front panel. Alternative is Fisher Paykel do a drawer dishwasher

Yes they need to see the planning permission floor plans and elevations. They also want to see a set of costings and a breakdown on stages. (I know this as a client has their self build mortgage with MBS)

This is from the McAlpine tech info

You need an SE all over this as your Lewis Deck will change all the design criteria of the joists and the connection issues with the walls. Durisol usually uses a system of wall plates drilled to the concrete cores - you will need something much more than that as deflection won’t be your issue, sheer force on the wall plates will be. In terms of that overhang, I would get it sized in steel and change the upper floor construction method to timber frame and lighten the load on the cantilever over that section as concrete cored Durisol is very heavy.

Length ... CON-1 is 117mm, Macfit is 140mm

15 mins at 8-10 litres a minute can use 150 litres. Blended down from 60 degrees, that’s around 55 -60 litres of hot water. Hence the recommendation that you have approx 80 litres per shower as a stored volume. With 2 people I would always size at 210, with a bathroom and en-suite I would up that to 250. If you’ve not got a rapid reheat solution (ie gas or oil) then going one size up makes more sense so 250 would go to 300 etc.

Electric Combi are the devils work... If you are going DHW via an immersion driven tank then don't bother with an electric shower. Just upsize the tank, and use E7 to give you a decent amount of hot water. Factor in about 80litres of tank capacity at 60c per shower and its not far off. Very little difference with a 210 to a 250 litre tank too

10mm is fine - bulk is even better if you can get it by the lorry load.

Building Regs or Planning Permission ..? Not seen a request for BRegs drawings before ..?

What is wrong with it ..?? You will struggle to get searches done in that time, sounds like they are hiding something as you cannot complete on a sale in 2 weeks anyway as solicitors don’t work that quick. Even auctions that have a full legal pack take 4 weeks to complete minimum.

So you’re back to TQC and choose two - and cost is your only option. Suspended floor, 6” joists at 450 centres and 22mm floor boards is your other option all resting on concrete pads and it won’t go anywhere - that’s your only other option

Self build or development...?? Ltd Co is a nightmare and you will end up with horrendous Director / personal tax liabilities if you get it wrong for building one house. If you are looking at the tax implications of multiple plots or selling off land then a good tax accountant who understands Capital Gains Tax would be advisable but you don’t need an accountant to do a self build.

How much does your average brickie charge up there ..??! That’s £300 a day for grounds/bricks. That isn’t a cheap price (I would be paying £210 in comparison in the Midlands) so it may be worth looking around. None of that is not doable on your own - replace the bricks with blocks and clad with board and you’ll never see it.

There is 3 days work there maximum - it’s a conservatory base in effect and they don’t take any longer and tbh it sounds like you’re digging in garden rather than patio which is easier. Bricks and mortar are £150, concrete (on a volumetric mixer) would be £350, 6 sheets of EPS £100. If that was more than £1500 tops I would look elsewhere.

I would use an engineering brick wall all the way round on a 300 x 150 foundation, 3 courses (225mm) deep. Then level and blind this with 25mm EPS and create an upstand with 25mm EPS too, DPM, 100mm EPS and finally 100mm concrete in the middle. Solid but insulated and cheap to do.

I had to insulate a metal box due to condensation - same as the ducting as it’s surprising how quick you end up with pipework with a lot of condensation on it.

@Russdl - I’ll step out at this point and let the master of over engineering comment as I’m sure he could knock you something up or do something for you in CAD to far exceed the requirements ... @Onoff are you there ..??

How about one of these with some G3 in it to start with ..?? https://www.ducting-express.co.uk/product/ducting-fittings/inline-filter-box/inline-filter-box-200mm

If the intake and the unit itself are properly insulated then it doesn’t matter too much how long the intake / extracts are. It’s more important to keep them large diameter and straight as possible.