PeterW

You need to check the spec on the soil pipe as it needs to meet the standards above for either PE or UPVC. ABS isn’t allowed from memory, and solvent weld is not rated for 90°C.

This is the CIBSE spec - I’m just looking at the BRegs now.

God knows I don’t write the rules but it’s in the G3 layouts - let me see if I can find it ..!

Liner systems aren’t included in this - the block work and vermiculite see to that. If you have twin wall it has to be clear of the trusses.

Ok in this scenario @Peteis talking about stub stacks so I’m assuming 6-800mm of UPVC above the slab. Look at the regs for G3 and it tells you the minimum pipe before a bend and that’s the minimum you want before you go to something else. In reality it may not get checked but it’s not in line with G3 if this isn’t done correctly.

As long as the 40mm is done in something “heat proof” then you should be fine. Most don’t notice but some do ..!!

Can’t have a shared trap under G3 regs, and it has to be of pipe suitable to take boiling water so beware that if your BCO is on the ball he could pick up that 110mm UPVC is not rated above 90°C... I would branch the steam oven off the stack with a strap boss and just run a separate drain with another waterless trap.

Likely yes as they will require to know when the work was completed. The bigger issue will be if you sell as a search will throw up that the property has no building regulations approvals.

E2 limitation A) applies from the below (extract from regs)

The drill pattern that they use is quite regimented and they fill bottom up and don’t rely on it being blown a significant distance although from memory the installers did say it falls and compacts under gravity for about 5m so they could do it all from the first floor of a standard house. The thing to note - and to tell them - is where any cavity trays are and where they may extend either side of openings, and if there are any for abutment walls or other details where beads can’t easily flow.

The regs are here https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/468870/ADE_LOCKED.pdf With your build up of 11mm OSB I think you will only need either 25 or 50mm insulation anyway. A lot of walls are removed from the regs if they have doors in them - you can pretty much eliminate most of the walls in a corridor this way.

This is the full list of what is ordered https://www.gov.uk/government/news/uk-government-secures-additional-2-million-doses-of-moderna-covid-19-vaccine

Not sure - someone could run the numbers if you knew the full wall build up.

Glad it’s not just me that does this sort of thing ..! Could be something you could try and fix with a bit of insulation tape on the sensor..??

Its not spot on by any stretch of the imagination ..!! And I’ve just done a quick calculation knowing what you’ve said about the house and I’m heading to around 9-11kW minimum heat requirement which you just don’t have, so please don’t defend the surveyor ..! I think without your extension it was borderline but they didn’t include that in the calculations. And @SteamyTea is referring to all the copper pipe below the unit - that should be insulated as should any pipework within 1m of the hot water tank otherwise they cannot have signed it off under BRegs. Friday you need to ask very clearly why you’re not getting warm rooms. Oh and get them to set the heating flow temperature to a minimum 40c, it’s in the installer menu.. ?

Once the weight is off the legs you can dig out around each one but it will take a while - I like the idea @Russell griffiths suggests, and you could even make it reusable and do a leg at a time but it all depends on the below ground conditions. That could be an expensive hole you are digging ...

Big Boy pants needed on Friday, and tbh if it wasn’t a 300 mile round trip I would actually offer to be there when they are there if that would help. it isn’t drawbridge up from anyone, you legally don’t have to accept this and they have to put it right or put back what was there. In reality, they will leave the cylinder and rads and remove and make good where the pipework comes through the wall. From then on, you could actually go with pretty much anything on the outside wall, oil or even another monoblock ASHP. I’ve read the manual for the heat pump - yes I have nothing better to do - and there are a lot of controls you can change. It would take a half day of tinkering with it but the limiting factor is that it’s only 7.5kW. At a CoP of 2.5, it’s the equivalent of a 3kW electric fan heater on all the time so your running costs shouldn’t be too much more. But .. and a big but... I don’t think 7.5kW is enough input heat and that is where the big problems start. And without seeing the calculations I can’t see how they came up with that size in the first place.

88mm is an odd size but if you bought oak railway sleepers you could plane and cut them down. Nice detail (and keep BCO happy) would be to cut them to L shapes so you only need to cut 30mm or so out of the backs. Can be had reasonably cheaply and with 2 from each sleeper you won’t need that many.

I said that ... about page 14.... I’m with you on this but I reckon this is a classic grant plus RHI scenario where the installer stands to make £3-5k a pop for basically a crap install and no comeback.

Considered a new architect ..???? He has happily drawn (including that lovely 3D rendering) that the floor levels are the same inside and outside .. which if you need that sunken raft is not the case .. I am sort of with your builder on this, but I would be checking a few things first. I would get a machine in and excavate down the inside about 300mm in from one of those legs, and check how far down the foundations to, and more importantly how far out. Farmers are well known for the “that’ll do” method of groundworks, and you could find that those legs are stood on 100mm thick pads, or cubic metre blocks - all will depend on what day it was, and who was paying for the concrete... That will cause you problems for any walls, not just your legs as you can’t remove the concrete without some serious work. Have you got a structural engineer and a structural survey for the existing frame ..? That may be useful before you go digging tens of cubic metres of soil out to find you can’t get close to the legs.

Tiles..?? I thought it was the way he had cut the plasterboard and I was going to ask when the plasterer was coming to skim over all the gaps and make it look nice .....

@zoothorn can you take a photo of the wall unit in the main room..? Is it definitely a VRC700..?

Yep just wondered if this was a double opener ..? Ladder from the outside isn’t ideal as you need to pull both sides down at the same time

Local farmer and £50....???

Piece of pallet binding threaded through the frame sometimes works - helps if you can get both sides though to pull down