PeterW

You won’t get a bridge but the idea is target the minimum uValue at the taper end.

With a muck bucket on, a Telehandler is a useful bit of kit but you really do need to be trained to use them. They have stability issues at load/reach and they do need a really fine touch or you will have problems and dumping a pallet of blocks from 15ft will spoil someone’s day if they are under them ... @Russell griffiths Is the zero swing that good..? I’ve looked at the Bobcat and it seems nearly top heavy ..!

@Alexphd1 round over or bevel..? Bearing bits are ideal for this and make a really neat job - I now make my own MDF window boards as they are cheaper and have used oak worktop to do this before as well.

Timber has gone up but it wasn’t being harvested and processed across a lot of the Baltic during lockdown and it has caused short supply which did drive up the prices. Checked today and 5-8% is being mentioned for the January increase which is a bit more than last year.

Can you not run 125mm triangular deck chairs to support the upper layers ..? https://tzursteel.co.uk/products/continuous-wire-chair-2m-lengths-each-spacer-from-50mm-to?variant=27962143604759&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwueI17Sr7QIVqujtCh1EYw10EAQYASABEgKk5PD_BwE

What is the circulation pump set to..? Is it definitely coming from the tank..?

Nah - you can spin that off.. and besides you said this was temporary so we are expecting that lot out after Christmas !!

That flush would be getting the CT1 treatment also ... Mouldings like that are never concentric.

I agree - I run a big Makita 3601 Fix base and a Trend T5. The T5 can still give a kick if it bites into the timber too hard but the Makita chews everything in its way ..!! Only downside is that it isn’t great as a plunge start. But for trimming the edges on these boards one of the smaller routers would be idea - much less to go wrong when you take stuff off in small slices !

No that is lazy way of not bothering to remove the plate out of the router table off the router before using it ..!!! No way he can see the bit or where the workpiece is. A decent router will mean you can easily see the workpiece and also the bit, and you don’t need a lot of “flat” to work as you use a bearing bit as what @Declan52 has suggested. If you are only planning on trimming edges like that, then a trim router would be ideal as they are light enough to use one handed but also easier to handle. What you don’t want to be starting with is a big 2000W 1/2” Dewalt as it will rip your arms off.

No I mean is there a rubber cone washer in the cistern on the end of the bolt ..?? Bit like this ..?? Good squirt of CT1 down the centre of the cone stops it leaking past the threads.

A combi won’t do 4 showers - even a Greenstar 550i HiFlow will max out at 25l/min which is pushing it for even 3 showers as the main pipework in the boiler itself is only 22mm. Average shower is around 80 litres of DHW. For 4 showers, and assuming you want to go gas (as you mention combis) then go for a 400 litre UVC with a 4sqm coil, sometimes called a fast recovery coil, and put a 40Kw system boiler in and set the tank temp to 65c. It will keep up with the initial drop but a 40Kw system boiler can dump enough heat in to keep you above 48c which is the usual drop off point on lost shower mixers. Your bigger issue with this will be sheer flow rates assuming you can get a dynamic 3Bar at 50 litres a minute. May even be worth looking at the higher pressure UVCs (6Bar) and running the DHW split into shower feeds and then reducing the other basin / sink feeds to 3Bar and installing flow restrictors too. If you wanted to go ASHP rather than gas then you’ve got to look at recovery time, and then consider stepping up to a 500 litre UVC with a 16KW or even 25kW 3 phase ASHP and potentially an inline heater to provide belt and braces. All perfectly doable but needs proper planning and you need to start with the flow requirement and work backward to see just how much hot water you need to store.

Assuming there is a rubber cone washer on the bolt, pull it out and dry off and full with CT1 then bed it down onto the cistern as they leak down the middle of the rubber cones.

Can I ask the idiot question ..?? Given that has a bend and a terminal in it, how did they install it and where is / was the access ..??? Has that been boarded up since it was installed ..???

For what ...? I’ve yet to see anyone use a utility for more than a washing machine and store junk that has no other home .... Yep but unvented, cylinder has one as does the control block that reduces the pressure of the mains water Heat won’t matter, but access may be an issue as they are supposed to be at 1200mm from memory now ..? @ProDave..??

So the current UFH uses E7 via a heat pump to heat 12 tonnes of concrete and limestone flooring up that then acts as a huge storage heater during the day. Last one, heating could be on as late as 11 and back on at 5:30-6am. This isn’t unusual, and tbh it costs no more in CO2/Polar Bears to heat overnight than it does during the day.

My heating runs overnight as it uses E7 cheap rate electricity. Previous gas TS was on 5am to 11pm so the heating could come on at 6, but that’s not unusual either. You have to stop thinking that this is like a “normal gas or oil heating system” and start to understand its capabilities and also its limitations.

400 tall larder, 800 sink base then a washing machine and tumble dryer side by side - bridge over the whole lot if you really want more cupboard space. Utility will give you access to the drain for the PRV and will keep things tidy. Think @canalsiderenovation is doing something very similar.

what I meant was you can stack this lot in a very small footprint - you can get 300 litre UVC and all its control set and expansion in a 600x650 space which is the width of a standard cabinet - it can go in a utility room full height cabinet door width (minus one side of the frame usually) but is achievable. UFH manifolds can be hidden in walls as they aren’t that thick - 150mm depth if you swivel the pump round but it’s all perfectly doable.

300 litre Telford Tempest with the Heat Pump coil is 1650mm tall x 554mm diameter. 30 litre expansion mounted above it would need another 330mm in height but the whole lot will squeeze into a 600mm wide gap if you get them to put all the connections in the 10-2 zone on the front of the cylinder. If you really run tight on space then Advance do a rectangular buffer tank if you need one for the UFH you can stand a UVC on : https://www.advanceappliances.co.uk/product/141-buffer-stores/ Advance may do you a deal on one of these with a UVC - they do a 300 litre tank with a 4sqm coil for slightly more which will heat quicker if you have a larger ASHP.

@zoothorn I think the huge uninsulated wall behind your bed has something to do with this. That is acting as a heat sink, downstairs the Insulation and air tightness is much better and I think this may be why the upper room is struggling. I would also do what @newhome has said and start by turning down all the radiators to 50% but the one in this room. Have you also had your wood burner lit..?? That will help with background heat and costs you very little to run.

surely the quickest way to stop that is to seal from the eaves side ..? Can you also not stick some polystyrene insulation on the back of those boards to stop condensation ..? Would only need to be 30-50mm but would make a big difference.

I’m still thinking tandem tanks here and having the second one with a boost immersion heater on the “just in case” scenario. It gives you flexibility in how you pipe stuff up, but essentially your priority is always tank 1, the last tank before the outlets. This can be set slightly higher temperature and has the priority on any solar PV etc. Tank 2 is then the tandem backup, but doesn’t matter if it is hot or cold. When there are less occupants then T2 isn’t used but is essentially a cold water buffer. In terms of controls it’s relatively simple to manage with a pair of tank stats and a switch to decide if you want 200/400l of hot water. A pair of 200 litre tanks spread across both sides of the attic space would be easier to handle too, but don’t forget you need to get them up there in their first place and they are not light..!!! 6x2 bearers across min 6 rafters is standard for this sort of load, if you can get it bearing on top of a wall then that’s a bonus.

Is this the room you did with the kingspan and we walked you through how to do it ..? And tbh you made a great job of it so it’s very much working as designed when you’ve got proper detail to all the joints etc. Do you have any access to the ceiling above the other room or not ..?? I’m thinking not ...

Does your workshop have a rad in it then..?? And I think you need to close down the rad by about 50% in the room with the thermostat in it.