PeterW

Quick search and they do leak - set of o rings for it aren’t expensive https://www.heating-parts.co.uk/Grant-O-ring-kit-MagOne-Filter-VM12-X/product/239060/239060/

Yep they are the ones !!

Cistern bolts Just use a couple of 5x75s and glue a mirror cap over the top. Won’t move then.

Nope they will not sign it off - I've asked both private and LABC.

You need it where the screed hits a solid wall so that could include any internal load bearing walls

Think he also got rid of the PHE prewarmer too. His original set up was a Newark Copper cylinder thermal store from memory. Think he sold it via the forum.

Depends on what water pressure you want ..? But thought you were going for a Sunamp..?

It is also supposed to be there to support the tray overall so it doesn’t flex. Yes as it can alter the cement bonding if there is too much and cause issues if you add too much. Additives need tiny amounts.

Just remember you cannot self install an unvented cylinder unless you hold a G3 certificate. Everything else is fine.

All plasticisers are is additives to make the mortar more workable. It adds nothing to the finished product. I’ve laid big shower trays on cheap tile adhesive before now as it sets just as quick and is easier to level as it is slightly more fluid.

Not knowing what your husband does, is that a good use of his time or loss of income ..? I’d agree for some of the skilled areas it makes sense but labouring can cost £330 a week if they are on minimum wage - what are you hoping to save..? Or is it the project management of trades you are looking for ..?

Inlet if it’s in a warm space as the cold inrush air will chill the duct and you get condensation on the outside.

Yep same difference - a 25kg bag.

Yep same one as I use - now branded EverBuild Tanking Kit and usually cheapest on Amazon.

Couple of screw in ground anchors and ratchet straps will stop it moving. Would also be worth getting some OSB framing around the base of the vans to stop the wind blowing under them as the insulation in the floor is negligible.

@Nickfromwales it looks like @Declan52 just offered ..! ?

About 15 litres of mortar needed so that’s about half a bag of sand if you buy a maxi bag from Wickes and you won’t need much cement. Worth buying Mastercrete as it already has a plasticiser in it. No need to add anything else. I would put the tray in place and lift it from the front and prop it then spread the sand and cement and drop the tray gently onto it. @Nickfromwales advises scouting the bottom of the tray first as otherwise the sand and cement doesn’t bond well.

Debatable ..! It was “only” £10/m but by the time it’s done and finished I’m pretty sure it would have been cheaper to buy new ..!!

About 75 mins I think from memory.

Two 200 litre horizontal tanks in series would work, downside is they don’t do a heat pump coil in the Telford ones unless you order it special and I think it’s quite a bit more expensive.

I’ve just laid 20 sqm of 100 year old parquet and removed the bitumen off the back with a Triton Bench Planer - it trashed a set of blades but was worth it. You have to use a solvent based adhesive like Lecol 5500 or Sikabond but it lays ok. Mine was T&G so had to be cleaned all sides which made it harder. With the modern solvent adhesives you don’t have to remove all the bitumen but it does smell a bit when it’s being laid.

NHBC don’t set the rules - they are in the Building Regulations so unless you are having an NHBC warranty they are the last people I would check with. If you have water on your breather membrane then you have bigger issues with a roof. That is the last line of defence.

Skirting in a bathroom ...? Preference would be a tiled skirting to match the floor tiles, or if you use “ordinary” skirting then use solid wood not MDF. Make sure they prime it all round with a decent primer, eggshell is better and make sure you get 2 coats on all cut sides including the one joining the floor. Then bed it on decent sealant to stop any water getting under it and blowing the wood.

There was no old system ....

That isn’t proof. Your body temperature is 39°C, the air temperature at 18°C feels “cool” but a radiator at 25°C will also feel “tepid”. In reality, pure thermodynamics means the radiator is warming the air around it, and given enough time and assuming the heat loss from the room is less than the heat input from the radiator, the room will reach equilibrium with the radiator. To give you “proof” it isn’t working, you need to get some data - which is the thermometers.