PeterW

Err yes there is ..! There is no safety mechanism to stop the ASHP putting 55c water into the slab without a blending valve. It’s a simple detail and shouldn’t be overlooked.

Could be a detail requested by the ICF manufacturer - not unusual to see details specific to them on drawings.

Try this Using some weird content management system from the looks of it

@Onoff here you go - if the BG engineer can’t fit then tell him to lay off the morning bacon cobs .. https://www.loftshop.co.uk/products/accessories/loft-hatch-door/

I did wonder that @ProDave unless they are blending further back at the input from the ASHP in the plant room.

Manthorpe do a range of plasterboard hatches - think they go all the way to 450 square which is plenty large enough to get through ...

@cwr how big is the build ..? And who’s providing the site setup such as heras and welfare, storage etc ..? Monthly is ok as long as you agree what is included - has he given you a breakdown of the costs and a schedule so you can plan accordingly ..? Bear in mind that some mortgage providers take a few days to process any draw down after inspection, so you could be 10-12 days between stage inspection and the funds in your bank, just watch that doesn’t mess around with your cash flow. Also get a site triplicate book - old fashioned I know ..! If any extras come up you create a triplicate copy of the request and the price. Builder gets the top, you get the middle and the last one stays in the book. You can keep track of any price changing and you know what you are paying for as they should itemise the additional work over and above the monthly stages.

I wouldn’t be burying copper until it has been pressure tested and also ensure it is not in contact with any concrete. Have you specified copper or have they chosen it..?

If they are run in a floor then use Hep2O conduit pipe and foam it into grooves cut into the foam. No joins in the floor and easy to run.

Sounds like the taps have come up good - you could surprise the plumber and get that basin tap off before he comes back - it’s only a couple of nuts ...! And then wrap the new boxes in a nice bow for him .. ?

Did you sign any paperwork for this install and the “deal” it is under ..??

you do have choices and legally supported ones. They have all had their chances to put this lot right and haven’t. Legally you have given them the statutory obligations to correct the issues and they have failed so you can reject this lot if you so wish. So go find your big boy pants, put them on tomorrow and start with a very firm letters to the installers, and the funding partner, giving them 14 days to : - correct the installation issues that are resulting in loss of water that could potentially be damaging your property; - resolve the lack of heating where the unit fails to perform to a satisfactory standard expected; - resolve the noise from the unit that means you cannot sleep or use the house to your enjoyment. State that if the issues are not resolved within 14 days, you will be having the installation removed and the property made good at their cost, and you will pursue the costs through the courts where appropriate. Between me, @Russell griffiths and @Nickfromwales we could have that lot out in a day or so, but our day rates (not including bacon butties and coffee) will mean that the suppliers will be weeping til Christmas ... Ironically, I would consider finding a second hand oil AGA and have that installed - yes they aren’t great on oil but they give out a fantastic low heat that is perfect for houses like yours.

It’s not cheap when you factor paid labour into it but it’s very cheap when you do it yourself. I went on the Beco course a few years back and that was like Lego - dead easy and fun but not cheap.

Another vote for D4 glue and a couple of screws to hold in place and then whack 4 or so nice big ring shank nails each side. Think I went though about 1500 paslode ring shanks on the last roof I did - it’s not going anywhere ..!!

Ring trading standards in the morning. Get them on it - what scheme paid for this install ..? Wasn’t it some Welsh Gov funded thing as they will take a keen interest in this not being right.

Hmmm... like @joe90 said - that is the floor retainer not the connectors. They look very odd and very custom. Any brand identifiers on it ..?? Roper tap will have a connector that ends with a 1/2” BSP threaded fitting - from memory they have one long and one short stud. Looks like a Wessex tap, ring Ropers (01225 303 900) and they will give you the part number for the tails.

Ok so that sounds easy enough then !! As others have said, sounds like it’s 1. Report attached, 2. N/A see report, 3. N/A see report .! ?

Welcome Just looked at that thermostat and if you upgrade to the 7” screen from the smaller one it allows remote access ..? That is possibly your easiest option without knowing what actuators / controllers are in place on the UFH manifold itself.

What is your maximum span again ..? 4m..?? That’s about 150kg per beam which is manageable but I wouldn’t want to move many..! Cranes can reach a very long way when used correctly and save huge amounts of time - I have seen them used to swing panels into back garden plots over a row of houses. How are you planning on digging foundations then ..?? Not by hand I hope .... ?

OK so you would need an easement / permission to do that and tbh I would be wall mounting it on your own wall but again, probably need the freeholders permission for that. Bigger concern would be what insulation is in the floor ..? And what is the floor made of..? You can’t dig down, and you can’t lift the floor to add insulation if there is another unit below so UFH may not be your best choice. You could use an ASHP with low temperature radiators and that is much less intrusive and easier to do as a retrofit.

OK so the easement over your land is to the existing property. If they wanted to create a new property they would have to split the title and you can’t just split an easement and grant others permission so they would have to come to you anyway. Sadly it’s now easier to ask for retrospective permission as councils don’t really kick up a fuss for this sort of thing unless there are a lot of objections. And they don’t have the legal resources to fight long appeals so tend to let stuff go - sounds wrong I know !!

If you’re going ICF for the outer walls then consider concrete plank floors for the first floor deck. Same lifting issues as beams, but much nicer to work on once they are in. Some suppliers do a semi insulated one, others do them with service tracks built in. Other “off the wall” option would be beam with EPS such as Jetfloor. Beams would need lifting but could be done with a Telehandler, but the foam blocks would be easy and quick for your deck plus the benefit with the UFH above. Could just then pour a self compacting concrete when you do a second or top lift on the ICF.

I do... basins, WCs, utility room are all in 10mm, shower and bath is 15mm as is kitchen tap, dishwasher is 10mm spur from this. Shower is 12l/min flow rainfall head, taps all have the correct flow restrictors to meet water regs use.

OK so your concern is one of potential conversion not the use ..? To get Class Q approval (redundant agricultural building) they would need to prove it was not needed and hadn’t been so for a minimum of 10 years prior. The fact they are building new and getting PP for it would result in them either playing a very long game or that in reality they have just played the system and got the old one converted and now need somewhere to keep the horses... On access - do you mean a lane you own, or a general lane they have right of way over ..? If you own it, you say who uses it !!! OK so how much land do they have..? Less than 5 acres / 2 hectares and they will struggle with an agricultural application anyway. On the muck heap, that is statutory nuisance if it’s near your property and doesn’t require planning - it’s an environmental health issue not a planning issue.

OK so it is both ..!! The controllers are shipped with the cooling disabled in the firmware. If you didn’t enable it, then irrespective of what you do to the cooling request terminals which are physically on the board, you wouldn’t get a response. Enabling it allows the unit to respond to an input on the board. You need a cooling thermostat irrespective if you want cooling to work, as your current thermostat will be a heating stat - it will close a set of contacts to call for heat when it is below a set temperature, and open them when it reaches or exceeds that temperature. It won’t care if it is 0.5°C or 10°C above the set temperature, it will do nothing...! What you need to install is a cooling stat that has a set of contacts that close when it goes above a certain temperature (let’s say 23c) and then cooling will enable. When it drops below, they open and cooling stops. This normally means using the NC contacts to drive the cooling on some stats, or you may find one that has a “Cooling” setting that reverses the logic in the thermostat itself. In the US you can buy AC control stats that allow both from the same unit but I’ve never seen one over here. The thing to ensure is you don’t overlap the heat and cool ranges so it doesn’t cool too far then flip to heating to bring it back up etc. Hope that clarifies.