PeterW

@LSB what he said .. ^^^^ Struggling with door positions here and windows as they affect the use of a room. As per previous though - ASHP or Boiler, you don’t need both. Where is the hot water cylinder going ..?

Sketchup does this for you if you take the map and the house in 3D and put it into a model.

Covers all come off - get them professionally sprayed as the shields /screens reduce performance.

Usually there is no insulation and a breached DPC on the outside will allow the inside of the cavity through the mortar to become damp, and also reduce the temperature considerably inside the cavity, lowering the inner wall temperature and causing condensation to occur on the inner wall. The Heritage House link explains a lot of this and it’s interesting to read, and the science (especially the vapour pressures required) to create such a high capillary stack mean that “damp rising” is more likely to be “cold rising and condensation forming”.

That stat in the pic looks quite close to a work surface ..? Have you got a further back view ..? That could be creating a heat pocket or lack of airflow

Nope as long as you don’t move into the new house within the initial 3 year period.

Rising damp is a myth. Read what @Roger440 has said - get one of those bricks cut out and chop it in half and it will be dry in the middle Start here for some decent information about old houses https://www.heritage-house.org

Probably around 25-30m of 15mm and 22mm pipe, but the pump was already installed and the timer was added to reduce run times and the costs were significantly reduced.

Water hasn’t seeped up the bricks. What has happened is the ground below has got wet and that will have soaked into the bricks from the sides. What is the ground level to the other side of the wall..? You will need to put some decent drainage all round - a gravel filled French drain as a minimum.

Sadly this confirms most of my opinions about the quality of the products under that brand. Have you used the Heatmiser wiring centre and their actuators ..?

On what basis ..? That there is a nice big hole in the deficit so that we need to find the money somewhere ..? I don’t see that much changing in the short or medium term, this is just going to be kicked down the road by successive governments for years to come.

Wouldn’t get through parliament as it would crucify the London renters who pay £1,400 a year council tc in Shoreditch for a 2 bed flat worth £800k. They would see their bills jump by over 2.5 times, and if they go after the landlord then they will just add it to the rents.

What’s the worst that could happen..?? It will fail and flood your basement with warm water so it becomes a swimming pool .... I don’t think you will get the linear flow you expect without a blending valve tbh, and your ASHP cycling will pulse the heat in and it will give you issues - for the sake of a £30 blending valve why not fit one ..??

Depends ... Manifolds and Blending sets - Plenty have bought from Wunda and prefer their blending valves, some think the Ivar blending valves are better, and Emmeti is good too. Pipe - Pex-Alor Pert-Al is the norm, when buying it you should be able to get it for 45-55p/m for 16mm. Pumps - Wilo is my pump of choice, super quiet and very efficient. As usual - if it looks too cheap it probably is...! The Hong Weng Chinese Floor Heating Company are not the choice you want to be making with something you won’t see for 50 years or more once installed...!! And as a tip - if the manufacturer exhibits at the big shows or in the glossy magazines, they are significantly overpriced against the rest ..!

No because when they are “on” they don’t fully close, they partially close to restrict flow. Think there is a minimum flow with them.

Any reason for wanting to use the JCT minor works contract for this ..? Is this a new build ..? So minor works won’t cover here - and it is pretty clear on that : The Minor Works Building Contract is not suitable where the project is complex enough to require bills of quantities, detailed control procedures, or provisions to govern work carried out by named specialists. I would be contracting with the main contractor on an agreed terms with payment schedules and should refer to the agreed design set provided by the architect. There shouldn’t be a need for a lot of the additional elements of the JCT contracts and it will cause complexity as you’ve found out. As @nod says, you could end up paying twice or more for cover.

Anything like this would do https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Digital-LCD-Indoor-Thermometer-Hygrometer-RH-Max-Min-0-50-10-99-RH-/133140487762?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Is this on old units as you refer to a 2006 install..?? Even lower now - Sekoh who do a lot of the units have pumps at 35W in the JDK range which are fitted to a number of the modern PSTP units. This is an example - 35W and 33dB at 1.5m which is barely audible when in a kiosk. https://www.mpcservices.co.uk/secoh-jdk-s-40-linear-diaphragm-air-pump.html The JDK-150 fitted on the 20-30 PEq units (so probably suitable size in this instance) uses 115W at maximum pressure. This is all about design and layout - a properly designed and installed unit doesn’t have the issues of previous older units. In this instance something like a WPL Diamond would be suitable once the full load is known and they do them with remote kiosks that are virtually silent.

Is it actually getting warm enough ..? A cheap digital min/max thermometer off eBay will help you diagnose.

Welcome !! You’ve got some lovely 1980’s era stencil work going on around that ... Ask away on the questions - plenty of members north of the border here.

£10k..?? 140 7.3N blocks come in around £30/m laid so you should be closer to the £6k, and that would be offset by a slimmer concrete wall so it should be cost neutral. Have you considered ICF for below ground ..??

Let them install their own...??? Biorock has a maintenance cost - I’m assuming there is a maintenance agreement with split costs for all parties ..? Electricity usage is something like 50W so in a year that would be £15 a year per house for electric - are they aware of that ..??

So you mean replace the UVC with a thermal store ..??? Stored heat is stored heat, you can’t create more of it and a PHE system brings in more complexity and moving parts such as pumps and flow switches. A PHE tails off quicker than a UVC too - it’s why TS systems go colder quicker as you’re losing the body of heat. Given the choice of 400 litre TS and associated systems and 400 litre UVC I would go with UVC every day for a gas or ASHP set up. If you really need fast response then a 40kW system boiler with a high gain coil in the tank is the correct spec.

Why..? All primary pipe work from the ASHP to the UVC and the buffer should be properly insulated and it will not matter how far it is if correctly sized. It is minimum 22mm, ideally 28mm if long distances. There are no maximums in the MIs for the ASHPs I’ve seen. Before you compromise your long term usage of the system, I’d ask why he thinks that first and ask for the evidence.

Buffer is a big LLH. Who has sized it ..? Can the boiler talk to more than one Tado, and how does that interface into the manifold ..?