PeterW

Gas barrier is irrelevant - concrete isn’t gas porous and unless you’ve built a sump etc and got positive pressure under the floor you won’t extract it anyway. If it worked the way you think it will be coming up the outside edges where you’ve turned them up the walls.

Just a couple of concrete screws through the tracks will do it. It won’t cause any problems with the membrane - if you’re worried just a glob of LVT sealant under each hole to seal.

@JFDIY thanks for finding that ..! I agree - manifolds wrong way up ..! @David78 you need to get the plumber to switch the manifolds over - Polypipe System isn’t too complicated and it’s a case of swapping the flow and return manifolds and their controls or putting the pump etc on the other end which tbh is probably a bigger job assuming the boiler flow is into the bottom pipe of the mixer.

Pump looks upside down - UPS2 has an arrow cast in the body of the pump (not the motor) and I bet that is pointing upward. In this case it should be downward. 10 minute job to switch it over if you can isolate the two pipes into the bottom right of the mixer. TBH I am surprised it has worked so far as it is pushing against the flow valves and is pulling the wrong way through the mixer. Out of interest which of the two bottom pipes gets hot first ..? Which is the boiler supply ..??

Just as a note that structural issue has been monitored previously - the white dabs are glass adhesive. You stick it on the bricks to see if it moves and cracks the glass. The damp would only be due to ventilation issues if there was condensation generated in the flat. I would hazard a guess that the wall is letting in water - wouldn’t surprise me if it was a solid wall too - and that’s causing damp in the wall and floor. Needs a surveyor out.

Anything sat on padstones in line with the wall I make 100mm longer, anything spanning between walls i.e. perpendicular to walls I get cut 50mm longer but don’t tend to get these ordered until foundations are in. Any reason for wanting to order all the steel together as I know my suppliers are only on 3-5 days on standard profiles.

So what sort of “muck” is on them ..? If they are just dirty then a bucket of hot soapy water and a scrubbing brush is best. Ideally you want to then dry them out and seal them before laying.

Depends on it’s grade - if that’s 4x2 ungraded CLS then price wise it’s not far off. If it’s C16 graded you got a bit of a bargain ..!

With really good tea from F&M you can tell if the water has been reboiled, as the oxygen in the water is what helps flavour, and you should always use water off the boil so 98°C is still too hot to make it anyway .. If you’re using PG Tips tea bags (other brands are available) then it’s reasonably irrelevant.

This stuff will do.. Got a mixing paddle and a 6mm notched trowel ..?

That Mitsubishi cylinder only has zone valves - it’s also the one with the Plate Heat exchanger so has additional pumps. The only “clever” bit is the FTC6 mounted on the tank itself - that’s just a big wiring controller.

Horizontal tank will go in there - 300 litre too

Are the holes in the ceiling to let the water in ..?

Not requried Assuming 70% at 18°C and a target of 56°C then it is circa 70 mins assuming a 9kW ASHP at full chat This is as per design I would recommend and use a diverter valve on the exit of the primary UVC. When it is returning the cooled return to the ASHP then in tandem mode it would return via the second tank. Simple way to do this is with a switch to provide an alternate route for the thermostats to trigger the ASHP.

Only if you own the road. A communication pipe is a grey area - also depends on who fitted the meter and the isolator. Communication pipes carry water between the water mains and the boundary of private property. If a company stop-tap has been fitted, this will normally mark the end of pipework that is the responsibility of the company and pipework that is the responsibility of the property owner. Not all properties will have their own stop-tap in the footpath but where one has been fitted, this is normally the responsibility of the company to maintain. Explains it all ... had dealings with them, they are not the easiest.

There is your answer. Anything from the meter back to the main is the responsibility of the water company if it is not on your property. If it bursts it would be up to them to find it - which company is it ..?

Where is the meter and the stop valve ..?? And does your iron main serve more than you ..? If so it could be the responsibility of the water company to repair it - 8l/min is very low and I would also suspect it may be leaking in the near future if it’s a 60 year old steel pipe.

@Carrerahill The McAlpine DC1 is your friend here .. only 42mm socket but you can cut down to ground. Used one for a replacement stack when someone went a bit heavy with the SDS... https://mcalpineplumbing.com/plastic-chrome-fittings/drain-connectors-boss-connectors-roof-flashing/dc1-bl-boc-drain-connector-boss

so if it would work I’m happy to get it posted to me and cut it down to say 50mm over size and post on ..??

Adding to what has been said above, I don’t think there is too much an engineer would want to make this much more of a “designed” solution so wouldn’t be that expensive. Considerations for you though : - what sort of blocks are they.? - can you pocket each end of the wall plate into the wall..? - where do the stairs enter the room..? - what provisions are there for fire exit from the above room..? All these will make a difference to the design and the final solution.

This isn’t strictly true - doing the research into R32 filled heat pumps you would find you can get the same tank temperatures albeit at lower CoP. Using the tank immersions also brings the temperatures up.

That’s fine - you can insulate pipes underground but you need to put a frost stat in the garage to keep things moving in colder weather.

Is this between two level laminate floors for expansion through a doorway ..?? You can get standard ones in 2.5m - think even B&Q have them.

Garage inside the thermal envelope of the building with the exception of the door..? If so.. no issue with it but increase all the pipe insulation to 22/35mm Nitrile rubber (Armaflex/Insultube) not poly such as Climaflex and glue or tape all the joints. Also if you can, lift the tank off the floor on a stand made of 4x2 with a ply or chipboard top and insulate under the tank. Hot return would be a pain now unless you have a manifold somewhere near the old tank location ..?

100mm insulation would need to be PIR to meet regs.