Thorfun

thanks will bookmark that until I need one. now can someone tell me the difference between a first fix and a second fix mail gun, please?

like this one? https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/hitachi-gas-nail-gun-nr90gc2-first-fix-90mm-nailer

looks great! I'm so jealous that you're so far ahead of us in our build, but I know we'll get there at some point!

we're going the other way. we were going to have white internal timber and anthracite grey alu-clad external but after lots of thinking and looking at photos and watching lots of Building the Dream we've decided that we prefer the anthracite internally as well as externally. we love the dark windows frames internally. but we've not decided on cill colour yet. so that's another on the list of things to decide!

we've decided on Warema external blinds for our south and west facing windows and doors. our chosen window supplier (Norrsken) don't do integrated blinds and the Internorm windows we were also considering which did have integrated blinds ended up being a lot more expensive than the Norrsken and external blinds. so, might be worth considering as an alternative option to integrated blinds? as it's a new build you can ensure that the external blinds are integrated into the fabric of the building so they're hidden from view.

I don't think it's the depth of water as I'm trying to empty a swimming pool and the pump was in the deep end! I'll try the lying on it's side thing and then I'll just get a replacement from SF I think.

I think I tried that and the same outcome. I'll try again when the water I want to pump out defrosts. if it happens with 2 different hoses then I know it's the pump.

I bought a Titan one from SF and was working fine. but now it won't pump with a hose attached. it pumps if I hold it and don't attach a hose to the outlet pipe but when I attach the hose no water is pumped. would that be a broken pump or could it be a blockage in the hose? tempted to phone SF up and get a replacement.

yeah, cheers. updated calculations attached.

ok. my bad. again, I'm sure I've had these conversations before with you guys so thanks for setting me straight again. I guess my U-values aren't as good as I think they're going to be! if I remove all the external void and make the unvented one high emissivity then I get 0.137W/m2K which would correlate with @Russell griffiths calculations. looks like I'll need to get my SAP re-done then. the thermal modelling company didn't pick up on it, but I'm not surprised, they were a bit s**t.

I know we've had these conversations before but my memory is so poor that I forget everything! did that but it didn't really make much difference. again, bad memory, but I thought that the unventilated cavity was low emissivity if it wasn't a shiny surface? but again, how much of a difference does it really make?

Tanners designed a Kore system but (see other threads on this subject) I've had issues with them being able to deliver to an individual since Brexit so I've kind of dropped them for now. as such I believe the groundworks company would do as you suggest but as I'm still at the decision stage for choosing a groundworks company those details can be had once that decision has been made. thanks for the tip about 200mm sheets being cheaper. appreciated.

will do on all that. here's the detailing by Tanners showing the insulation. I'll make sure it's built to these specifications.

dunno then. I can only go on what the computer says! I think standard PIR on changeplan is 0.023W/mK but I changed that to 0.022W/mK as you can find stuff that has that thermal conductivity but if I change it to 0.023W/mK I still get a 0.126W/m2K U-value. maybe it's changeplan's calculations? or maybe it was Rockwool being conservative? or maybe they didn't include all the other bits of the wall makeup like the external battening and cladding and internal service void etc? I know there are much cleverer people than me at U-value calculations on here so maybe one of them can tell us who's right. ?

you know what? I'm going to leave that to the groundworker! they've quoted for it so, assuming I choose to go with these guys, they can do all that work and take on the responsibility for not messing up the calculations.

sadly we need EPS300, specified by Tanners. thanks for the tip.

I did the calculations myself using changeplan.co.uk. that's Frametherm32 between the studs and 0.22W/mK PIR on top of that. works out to 0.12W/m2K

thanks, that makes sense. I ask because I have a quote from a groundworks company that is just using Stylite EPS and building the slab and walls like yours so it's good to know that it worked for you! I've got no issues with it as EPS is EPS as long as they're ok with it and it all connects well I see no benefit in paying extra for an 'engineered' EPS solution.

@Bitpipe I've got another question for you on this (sorry!). on your basement did you use a 'manufactured' solution, e.g. Kore/Isoquick/AFT etc for your insulated slab or was it just bought EPS and fitted together by yourselves/groundworkers? I know I've read all of your posts about your basement but this is one detail I can't remember you mentioning.

yep, and this is making me reconsider our (I really should say 'my' as SWMBO doesn't really care and just wants the ****ing house built!) target U-values. I'm wondering if I should reduce the 80mm PIR to 50mm. this will change it from approx 0.12W/m2K to 0.15W/m2K and save quite a bit of money. so I'm trying to weigh up the costs and make a decision. but part of me is thinking I don't want to add more insulation at a later date and if/when building regs start to mandate <0.15W/m2K i'd rather our building still conform so maybe just go low now and not worry about it in the future.

it would be interesting to know the thickness of the ICF walls to get you to 0.12 W/m2K as that's my target U-value in our timber frame and our walls are 140mm studs with mineral wool between the studs and 80mm PIR on top so 220mm (not including VCL or service void which the ICF won't have either). I would reckon that ICF walls would need to be nearer 400mm thick to get similar U-values, but I might be wrong. But I do think TF will get you better U-values with thinner walls simply due to the fact you can put the insulation within the wall whereas ICF is on either side. But, as has been said before, U-values aren't everything and every one needs to make their own decisions on their requirements and ideals.

thanks @Bitpipe and @HerbJ. very useful explanations. I've already requested compriband from Norrsken it's just the window reveals that I'll need to double check on but I'm glad I've got confirmation from both of you that my plan of action will work! I need to save money and installing the insulation myself is one way of saving money but it will take me time and I don't want it to hold up anything external to get the building watertight. hopefully this thread mini-hijack is also useful to the OP @Suffolk_J as it sounds like it's the same route as me.

ahh....ok, that would account for the OSB finish internally. I guess that's different to me installing frametherm between the studs and PIR over the top. I was pretty confident that the windows can be fitted to the TF as simply an open panel TF without insulation but there is now an element of doubt!

thanks @HerbJ. Did you not go for factory fitted insulation from MBC?

hey @Bitpipe. quick question on this statement. if we're doing the insulation, VCL, service void etc ourselves do we have to wait until that's finished before getting the windows fitted? from your post it sounds like you do but I was working on the principle that the TF company erect the shell and we then get the windows fitted as soon as possible after that and I can then work on getting the insulation installed etc at my leisure. but you've put a doubt in my mind now as to the order things are possible.