Thorfun

@Oz07 just a follow up question to this please, and this is probably the question I should've asked in the first place! if I put the 6F2/6F5 (or even Type 3) down as a base layer all nicely compacted, is it ok to then dig channels in it to run pipework and then fill it in again and still get the same compaction levels as before digging the trench in it?

for a build that size I would be getting a professional to design the MVHR system. I'm sure it'll be a very small % of the overall budget and it's not something I would want to get wrong. I used Enhabit for our 450m2 self-build with a basement and was very happy with their fees and design.

@Nickfromwales maybe you can bottle those tears and sell it on?

sure. 50% off the 'special' buildhub members rate of 200% rrp.

rumbled

thanks guys. sticking to 32mm. ?

so, I just went ahead and put an application in for a 32mm pipe (yes @Nickfromwales, I am a bit lazy and didn't do the testing, sorry.) and Southern Water have come back with this: As per our calculations, the proposed fitting details would require a 50mm OD pipe size with the flow rate of 0.8l/s. Please confirm the pipe size required for the new house. I wasn't even given the option for a 50mm pipe when creating the application. the choice was 32mm or 25mm. Any one able to assist in what they're proposing?

I had to pay £80 for my water application with Southern Water but I believe this also covers the survey. UKPN surveyed for free and didn't charge for a quote. Openreach charged a huge amount for a survey and then 6 months later said that they don't deal with what I want any more and told me to speak to the New Sites team. no offer of a refund for the survey or anything. ?.

Cheers. I’ll look in to it. ?

The CE gave us the finished driveway make-up (albeit for a permeable block packing finish) but I’m interested about whether, if in my situation, you’d choose to throw money away on a temporary sub-base or put down the actual sub-base and deal with any damage done during the build.

Because it’s specified by the civil engineer. But also the Groundworker who did my new entrant said it helps to distribute/disperse the load on the sub-grade.

Yes thanks. Sorry forgot to mention that geo-textile will be going down below whichever route I decide on.

And by sort after do you mean remove it and put the type 3 down for the sub-base to the finished driveway? if so, that’s definitely one of the options I’m thinking of but I can’t shake the feeling it’s just throwing money away! But I guess I can get over that eventually if I go that route.

And that’s permeable and suitable for a SUDS compliant driveway? And I assume the open surface tarmac can just go on top of it to finish off the sub-base for the resin bound surface?

afternoon all and a happy sunny Sunday to everyone. I hope you're all having a lovely day. my latest dilemma/decision is to do with our temporary hardstanding for the construction traffic during our build. I am currently digging it out to the depth that will eventually be required for our driveway and need to decide whether to simply put down some temporary hardcore for the build and then remove it all and then put down the Type 3, the open surface tarmac to go on top which will be finished off with the resin bond that we've decided on. here's the plan for our driveway and you can see that there is a RWH tank, diffuser tanks and plenty of pipework to eventually go underneath the driveway so anything I put down will need to be dug in to at a later date to install all of that. as such it would seem that just putting down some crushed concrete to create a temporary hardstanding would be the best route but it also seems like it's simply throwing money away as it will need to be bought and delivered just to be dug up and taken away afterwards at another expense. But then if I pay for MOT 3 now will that get ruined during the build and by digging in to it for the pipes and tanks? any suggestions about what to do or what would you do in this situation? or any other options I might not have thought of?

does this help? not MBC foundation but designed by Tanners for a Kore system and a level threshold entrance.

thanks all. really given us something to think about.

We're planning to have vertical timbers for our balustrade. something like this..... so would presume that the vertical timbers would help firm it all up.

@Trw144 they look amazing! it still amazes me that they can take a weight as they just seem to float. is there any bounce at all? even if you jump from stair to stair? (off to read your 4 year old thread on them now)

ok, so how would one go about doing that survey? we are living on site in the existing building and have a mains water supply but we want to get a new supply for the new house as it's at the other end of the plot so rather than run a pipe all the way around the existing building and up the garden I feel it'll be easier to get a new supply. do I just put a water pressure gauge on our outside tap that I'm 99% sure comes straight off the meter as I had to fix a leek under the garden? or is there something more scientific than that?

agreed! this is one outcome I'd really like to know as we're thinking of cantilevered stairs but are worried about the expense.

ok cool. that makes sense and thanks for clarifying. as my run is only about 30m I'll go for a 25mm pipe too.

Hi @Nickfromwales. this is confusing me. first you say a bigger pipe makes complete sense and then say that 25mm should suffice. my run is also about 30m from the road to basement plant room and I'm all for future proofing stuff so I fail to see why you would want to go for the 25mm over the 32mm if there's no downside (apart from a bit of cost).

so bigger pipe = higher water pressure? is it as simple as that as to what you request? I presume a 32mm connection will cost more than a 25mm though?

when I first approached the local water company about a new connection they also asked me what I wanted rather than telling me we had to have. as I didn't know I put it all on a back burner but now we're getting near to needing to make that water connection application so this thread is very interesting for me! ps. I have made the assumption that @nod is asking for the pipe size for the connection to the water mains. if this isn't the case then, like @ToughButterCup, I too have got the wrong end of the stick