Thorfun

Can’t you configure the mad to shutdown gracefully on a loss of power? Then the UPS doesn’t need to last long.

I agree with this. Kore just supply EPS, as to many other companies. surely it's down to the SE to determine the load on the insulation and the effect the trees will have on them. and surely the answer depends on the situation and the trees! I too have used TSD for our foundations for the basement and rest of the house and they've designed a Kore system but have said that EPS is EPS and can be sourced from anywhere as long as the correct compressive strength EPS is used.

I have found an external earthing rod near to where I think the site supply will go. but, to be honest, electricity scares me and so I think I'll get a sparky in to connect up that site supply.

thanks all. it is removed, taped up and secured and the power is back on with no ill effects that I can see yet! now I can crack on with removing the RCD in the pool house.

That’s good to know. Hopefully this place will be demolished in 18 months though as we’ll have a lovely new house to live in.

Yes, eventually when this house is demolished after we’ve built the new one. I was just thinking about reusing it for a site electricity supply if I can dig it up and attach the pool house RCD to a housing outside. Would save running cables through windows for builders and would also allow us to isolate from inside the house when no one is using it. so if I just leave the earth connected and tape up the live and neutral all is good?

Hmmm....and I can’t seem to pull out the red and black cables. I think I’ll just tape them off. That cable runs outside to another fuse box for the pool house which is coming down to make way for our new house. So I might eventually reuse that for a supply for the builders so I can possibly reconnect it at a later date. do I need to remove the earth cable as well? Or can that stay connected? so simply tape up the removed red and black and then put the cover back on?

@Onoff tracing the eart cable is proving tricky! Any secret ways of doing so or is it just trace one at a time until you find the right one. this is a photo of the cable I want to remove in its housing. The earth is separate from the live and neutral and this is the whole fuse box. You can see the cable to remove below it

Exactly what I’m talking about im going to pull out the live and neutral and earth and leave the blue cable in the RCBO. thanks @Onoff

Hi all. I’m in the middle of removing an external run from our existing house RCD. I’ve removed the live and neutral but I’m not sure if I have to remove the blue wire which looks like it’s the shared neutral. any electricians on here able to help please? The power is currently off so could do with finding out soon! here’s a photo

Yeah, the original poster said he contacted them directly on the off chance. I guess they haven’t updated the website yet.

thanks @Dan F. very interesting post and thanks for sharing your thoughts. as previously mentioned I have a loooooong way to go before I have to make a decision on all this and I read every thread and post to do with the subject with great interest. I really look forward to reading your and @joth's experiences with your respective systems. as he's doing DMX and you're doing DALI maybe I should do KNX just to so we can tick all the boxes on this forum. ?

@joth did you see these DMX mains dimmers? from https://groups.google.com/g/loxone-english/c/G1kb5HCZWSg/m/OHXiqlcDAQAJ could mean that DMX is back on the table for me! ?

congratulations! can't wait until I get to that point....although seeing as we're about 2 months away at least before we break ground it could be a while!

congratulations! it looks great. as a relatively new member here I've not been around for your entire journey but I have read many of your threads and have enjoyed reading about the journey. enjoy!

this is great advice. thank you very much. once I get closer to making a decision on all this I'll most likely start my own post to get feedback from those, like yourself, that have done it. I used Dialux Evo to design our lighting and we like it. I'm sure a professional lighting designer would laugh at it but I don't think we can afford one.

thanks for sharing this experience. it's invaluable and I'll look in to Dali some more as I hadn't really checked that out yet. I have a lot of time before I have to make a final decision on all this.

so just a single CAT6A per switch? it's interesting that one cable will do the same job as the tree cable. I was thinking I might have to run 2 x CAT6A cables to each switch for comms and power. but a single cable is much easier! I've been looking at the KNX switches. very sexy albeit a bit pricey! I've looked deeply in to the DMX route that you've taken but the reviews and posts I've read on the Loxone forum about the reliability of those DMX 302 dimmers has kind of put me off. I know the KNX extension is hugely expensive as are the dimmers when compared to DMX but the KNX dimmers are supposed to be very good and reliable and still cheaper than Loxone. but, I'm not 100% sure we need loads of dimming circuits anyway as the way I've planned the lighting in Dialux we have lots of mood lighting without the need for loads of dimmers. so it's tempting to just start with a few Loxone dimmers and then if we decide to add lots of dimming do it at a later date. so many decisions to make and we haven't even broken ground yet! I will keep following your progress with lots of interest. keep up the good work. ?

awesome. glad it's all going well. are you using Tree cable then? and are you using the Loxone switches? just confused by the statement about the increase of quantity of Cat6. sorry if you've mentioned all this before, if you did I've probably read it and just forgot! sounds like you're going to have a fun Christmas this year. good luck with it all.

sounds scary! can't recommend anyone but I'd be getting multiple quotes and references and visits to past clients. doesn't sound like something you want to be cutting corners on. good luck.

@joth how's it going? just wondering how your first fix is going with the Loxone stuff? as far as I remember you were doing it about now.

just wanted to say a big thank you to @A_L for his assistance on this one. with his direction I have extrapolated the table as he suggested and plotted a trendline in Excel and using that I have been able to easily see the difference that different thickness and type of EPS makes to the basement walls. I've come to the conclusion that 200mm EPS 70 outside the basement walls will yield a U-value of 0.095W/m2K and the basement floor with 200mm EPS300 a U-value of 0.09W/m2K, when adding in the effect of the soil, which easily hit our required targets. I've really enjoyed the journey this research has taken me on. this forum is brilliant. long may it continue.

whoops! missed that bit, sorry. ? thank you so much for this. it is so incredibly useful and would seem that if the extrapolation is correct that the 200mm of EPS should easily be enough.

agree with the comments above. we were just fortunate that the architect we 'clicked' with also happened to be the cheapest! although I think he made a mistake on the costings and under charged us but I'm not complaining at that. I think you have to go with your gut feeling on this one as you don't know what they'll come up with until you've signed up! although, ours charged a small fee for a 'feasibility' study so if after that we weren't happy with his designs we could've walked away without having spent too much. good luck and we all look forward to seeing how the plans develop. maybe you should think about starting a blog? ?

hi @A_L. I've read through the document but I'm a little stumped. "Walls which are beneath ground level should be entered as normal into the U-value calculator module of the program, but you will then need to use the total resistance of the wall calculated by the program (which can be viewed in the ground floor data entry screen) and the known depth beneath ground level to get the adjusted U-value from the following table. You should then enter this figure directly into the program." I get this but according to the changeplan calculator the total resistance is 6.935 m2K/W, right? but the table in the document doesn't go to those levels! a maximum Thermal resistance of 2.5m2K/W unless I'm completely reading it wrong. Also, my basement ceilings are 2.9m high and there isn't a 3.0m column in the table either. am I reading this all wrong?