Thorfun

I would like UFH in the bathrooms and if I use wet UFH then I'll most likely just run the pipework on the rest of the first floor anyway as it's cheap to do so at that point and then if it never gets turned on so be it!

I wonder if this is why self-builds generally cost more to do, not because of cutting corners by non-selfbuilders (or self-builders that are in the trade like yourself @nod) but more that a self-builder will do stuff 'just in case' it's needed. so are very much more belt and braces as they don't have the build experience to know that what you say is correct so over-engineer solutions. I know that when I do the insulation, VCL, taping, plasterboard etc I will definitely be using more material that is probably required just in case it needs it. it will cost me more but I'll know that it will definitely be enough!

just wanted to say that I'm glad I read this thread....not so much for the image @Russell griffiths just posted (?) but for the information about basement WCs and macerators and @PeterW's confirmation of pumping vertically before horizontally. We want a WC in the basement and I was thinking that the macerator could pump down below the slab and then up to the main soil pipes. but, now I've read the thread and thought about it, of course that's not going to be possible! what was I thinking? I will now be looking at pumping it straight up and then using gravity to take it in to a soil pipe that feeds outside. thanks

just remembered that you're in Cheshire. sorry, didn't mean to put you off, I'm just used to prices in the South East companies just add an extra 0 to the end of costs.

I think that's a tight budget for all of that! bat surveys alone will be a couple of grand at least as they need multiple ecologists at dawn and dusk on more than one day. and then the ongoing remediation plans/bat license etc if they're found can soon add up. then the topo, GI, arbo etc makes it sound a bit tight. yikes!

can't find any at the moment down this way. tried lots of companies and no one seems to have recycled type 3. which is a shame.

ok, they didn't have any anyway. I think I'll stick with Type 3 all the way down. might be a bit more expensive but reduces complexity and risk.

that's interesting. the company that has granite type 3 does have railway ballast on their website. I think I'll give them a call and ask if I can put that down with type 3 on top to reduce costs (assuming the railway ballast is cheaper than the type 3 that is!)

thank you! so, if purchasing for a permeable SUDS compliant sub-base it would seem that granite is the better option. ?

Hi all. I'm looking to get some MOT Type 3 for my driveway sub-base. it seems that some places offer Limestone and some Granite as the primary aggregate. simple question, is there any difference in performance or cost between the two?

@Ian I found the post I was referring to, although no one actually responded as to the difference as that's probably as I'd answered it myself. @A_L and @ADLIan are both wizards at U-value calculations and they've helped me loads on various posts, but I still find it hard to get my head around all the nuances. I think I need to re-read all my previous threads on this subject for a recap.

none taken! we are in agreement that it's strange MBC seem to have gotten it wrong. I'll see if I can find the previous posts on this wall make up and link them here...

yeah, I've questioned this before (can't remember on what thread though) and also can't comment on MBC's marketing figures. I guess I should have caveated the post with 'make sure you get your own calculations done on the expected U-values'.

in my opinion I believe it is as it reduces U-values AND reduces cold bridging. we're going for 80mm to get to around 0.11W/m2K. Also, for us, it's easier to install the mineral wool insulation between the studs and layer the PIR over the top and as we're doing the insulation ourselves this is very important for me! obviously, each person needs to decide what's important for them though!

I'm getting near this stage so I will be following your posts with interest.

you're right. that is their 0.18W/m2K wall. if you look at their other walls (0.14 and 0.11) you'll see they do. e.g. all 3 walls are shown on the link I posted.

welcome. sounds like you're at the same position we were in about 16 months ago! it's an exciting time and I wish you luck with your planning permission. also seems like you have time to read this forum thoroughly. there's loads of great information on every possible subject so get reading! ? with regards to the architect, those fees don't seem too bad but are more expensive than we paid (although our architect admits that they undercharged us!) but I highly recommend speaking to a couple more architects at least. get a feel for them and if you'd be happy working with them. I think that's as important as the cost as it might be worth paying a bit extra for someone who you think you could work with. plenty of blogs on here about peoples journeys down the many different routes. so enjoy yourself here but be prepared for starting down the rabbit hole that is buildhub. once you start down it there's no coming back.

agree with @dpmiller and @Russell griffiths. we're simply copying what a lot of the major TF manufacturers do in the factory. here's the MBC example. https://www.mbctimberframe.co.uk/closed-panel-wall-options/

50mm of PIR will reduce U-values substantially without taking up an extra 50mm of room size.

Only 2h45m according to Maps! ? Yeah, I get that and I appreciate your input. It’s still on the cards for us but I will definitely do more research.

indeed and we are having a combination of normal larch and charred larch. my curiosity was more to the longevity of the charring of Larch compared to the results of the charred Spruce in the article that was posted.

I didn't read that article in detail but it is about Spruce. we're looking at Larch. I wonder how that differs? if I can find the time I'll read the article thoroughly to see if something is in there about other types of wood.

I don’t see the issue with the windows being tilt and turn. Don’t they attach to the internal frame? So shouldn’t impair the window tilting or turning. ?

did manage to find this photo though. Excuse the washing!! ?

Ours were in the kitchen/diner so we weren’t worried about blackout. Ours were a lime green colour but also came in different colours. it was a number of years ago but if I can find the old receipt I’ll see if I can find out the manufacturer. no promises though!