Thorfun

Tanners designed a Kore system but (see other threads on this subject) I've had issues with them being able to deliver to an individual since Brexit so I've kind of dropped them for now. as such I believe the groundworks company would do as you suggest but as I'm still at the decision stage for choosing a groundworks company those details can be had once that decision has been made. thanks for the tip about 200mm sheets being cheaper. appreciated.

will do on all that. here's the detailing by Tanners showing the insulation. I'll make sure it's built to these specifications.

dunno then. I can only go on what the computer says! I think standard PIR on changeplan is 0.023W/mK but I changed that to 0.022W/mK as you can find stuff that has that thermal conductivity but if I change it to 0.023W/mK I still get a 0.126W/m2K U-value. maybe it's changeplan's calculations? or maybe it was Rockwool being conservative? or maybe they didn't include all the other bits of the wall makeup like the external battening and cladding and internal service void etc? I know there are much cleverer people than me at U-value calculations on here so maybe one of them can tell us who's right. ?

you know what? I'm going to leave that to the groundworker! they've quoted for it so, assuming I choose to go with these guys, they can do all that work and take on the responsibility for not messing up the calculations.

sadly we need EPS300, specified by Tanners. thanks for the tip.

I did the calculations myself using changeplan.co.uk. that's Frametherm32 between the studs and 0.22W/mK PIR on top of that. works out to 0.12W/m2K

thanks, that makes sense. I ask because I have a quote from a groundworks company that is just using Stylite EPS and building the slab and walls like yours so it's good to know that it worked for you! I've got no issues with it as EPS is EPS as long as they're ok with it and it all connects well I see no benefit in paying extra for an 'engineered' EPS solution.

@Bitpipe I've got another question for you on this (sorry!). on your basement did you use a 'manufactured' solution, e.g. Kore/Isoquick/AFT etc for your insulated slab or was it just bought EPS and fitted together by yourselves/groundworkers? I know I've read all of your posts about your basement but this is one detail I can't remember you mentioning.

yep, and this is making me reconsider our (I really should say 'my' as SWMBO doesn't really care and just wants the ****ing house built!) target U-values. I'm wondering if I should reduce the 80mm PIR to 50mm. this will change it from approx 0.12W/m2K to 0.15W/m2K and save quite a bit of money. so I'm trying to weigh up the costs and make a decision. but part of me is thinking I don't want to add more insulation at a later date and if/when building regs start to mandate <0.15W/m2K i'd rather our building still conform so maybe just go low now and not worry about it in the future.

it would be interesting to know the thickness of the ICF walls to get you to 0.12 W/m2K as that's my target U-value in our timber frame and our walls are 140mm studs with mineral wool between the studs and 80mm PIR on top so 220mm (not including VCL or service void which the ICF won't have either). I would reckon that ICF walls would need to be nearer 400mm thick to get similar U-values, but I might be wrong. But I do think TF will get you better U-values with thinner walls simply due to the fact you can put the insulation within the wall whereas ICF is on either side. But, as has been said before, U-values aren't everything and every one needs to make their own decisions on their requirements and ideals.

thanks @Bitpipe and @HerbJ. very useful explanations. I've already requested compriband from Norrsken it's just the window reveals that I'll need to double check on but I'm glad I've got confirmation from both of you that my plan of action will work! I need to save money and installing the insulation myself is one way of saving money but it will take me time and I don't want it to hold up anything external to get the building watertight. hopefully this thread mini-hijack is also useful to the OP @Suffolk_J as it sounds like it's the same route as me.

ahh....ok, that would account for the OSB finish internally. I guess that's different to me installing frametherm between the studs and PIR over the top. I was pretty confident that the windows can be fitted to the TF as simply an open panel TF without insulation but there is now an element of doubt!

thanks @HerbJ. Did you not go for factory fitted insulation from MBC?

hey @Bitpipe. quick question on this statement. if we're doing the insulation, VCL, service void etc ourselves do we have to wait until that's finished before getting the windows fitted? from your post it sounds like you do but I was working on the principle that the TF company erect the shell and we then get the windows fitted as soon as possible after that and I can then work on getting the insulation installed etc at my leisure. but you've put a doubt in my mind now as to the order things are possible.

Welcome. I had similar criteria to you when I started looking for TF manufacturers and my decision process can be read here: but, basically, you should get multiple quotes from multiple companies and then make a choice on those. it's not easy and we did eventually choose to go with Flight Timber and, so far, they've been great but we haven't even broken ground yet so I can't comment fully on them until we get to the stage that the TF is erected (fingers crossed in about 3 or 4 months time!). once that's happened I'll be happy to share my experiences with them. but I'd say they're definitely worth a shout for a quote and they're based in Essex which isn't a million miles from you. good luck.

I hope you didn't get your plumber to fit them.

thanks for this reassuring post. we have our FFL designed around an anhydrite screed so would've been a real ball ache to change it! we will proceed as planned with the anhydrite. cheers.

seems to be a bit contradictory here @Temp. sounds likes you can use Anhydrite screeds if you want to tile then, you just have to ensure that the laitance has been removed, which should be part of the service for installing the screed. plus, it seems to be recommended to use a decoupling mat under floor tiles so, in theory, the tiles aren't being laid on to the screed but to a mat on top of the screed. so does the "avoid anhydrite screeds if you are planning on tiling" quote still stand if the laitance is removed and you're using a decoupling mat?

I have been quoted £7k for my new 3-phase connection, mind you nearly £2.5k of that is council charge for a TTRO (temporary traffic regulation order) and £1k for UKPN to manage/design the road closure. the actual 3-phase connection was £1500 and about £2k to dig and replace the trenches under the road and verges. "Description of the Works to be carried out by UK Power Networks: Quotation is for the installation of a three phase underground service from an overhead line. This includes excavating laying and reinstating of 7 meters of the grass verge. This includes 4 meters of excavation laying and reinstating of service cable in the road. This includes an extra 10 meters of three phase cable and ducting. This includes a road closure and also council costs of a road closure. This also includes a letter drop to residents." For us the £4.5k to not have overhead cables is worth it. p.s. our is zero rated VAT

just grind the screed. ? you know that if you don't you'll look at the bodge job you end up doing and regret it. (although Amtico is a nice product. had it in the last 2 houses in places)

so the line I've circled with red on this plan that's from the land registry: sure looks like the fence line circled red on this map that you said shows what was gifted to you: so, if that is the case, then that looks to me like the land registry map is wrong when compared to what was gifted to you. I don't know how to resolve that but I'd be checking the fence line to see if it is the case and then seeking legal advice as to how to rectify.

Just as a word of warning on those suggesting future extensions. We had our PD removed as part of our planning approval so future extensions may not be so easy. it may not be the case for @Mulberry View but you never know what planning will do.

I think it's a lovely design and fits in well with the plot. for an initial concept design I'd say it's a great start! but, obviously circumstances differ, when our architect said he was concerned about the budget for the size of the house we're planning I just said we'd build it in stages and finish bits as and when we need them. e.g. the basement won't be finished until way down the line and the room above the garage can be done at a later date. etc. that way we managed to convince that we could build the house we wanted for the budget we have. either that or he just gave up caring! at the end of the day, in my opinion this is, it's not the architect's responsibility to get the house built to budget but yours. so if you think you can build a bigger house for your budget then you need to make sure the architect accommodates those wishes. looks great though. can't wait to see how it all pans out.

I wouldn’t say extra long, no. The plant room is front and centre in the property so the ducts go straight up from the unit to a manifold on each floor for distribution.

Ok, cool. So not really something to worry about if a spare extract is not available! our unit is going in the plant room in the basement (assuming we can afford a basement that is!)