Onoff

- Compacted Type 2 (home made, hardcore graded through a 40mm sieve). - Sharp sand blind - 25mm EPS - DPM - 150mm PIR (100 then 50) - Polypipe tray with 16mm UFH Pex-Al-Pex - A142 mesh - 100mm concrete ...s'what I've done. If I could have been ar$ed digging deeper I'd have thickened up on the PIR.

A couple more shots of mine albeit a single pan. More to get an idea of the convoluted route I went to bring the soil run within the stud wall depth. My stud wall is odd in that to square the room off the studs vary in depth from 95mm where the soil exits the wall to 150mm down by the Geberit frame. I was sort of lucky as the frame sits over where was an old door way, now blocked up but with the face of the blocks recessed by about 2" from the original wall: You can see here it was all looking good until I had to account for the collar thickness on the fittings. If you use push fit then the distance from centreline will be in excess of 55mm. To gain mm I went solvent weld. (Measure, dry fit & mark, double check before you glue - not for the faint-hearted but I'd do it again). Even with solvent weld the horizontal brown was just that bit too far out past the stud line and immovable where it exited through the wall. Hence the 9mm packing pieces added above: So now my moisture resistant plasterboard & Aquapanel for the wet room corner will "sail" over the soil pipe and be unsupported there - must remember NOT to screw there!

My first bench I made maybe 30 years ago has a frame made from 70x70 par. All the joints are half or through housings. It's topped with salvaged 6"x3"s and has a replaceable hardboard top. The big mistake was continuing the 70x70 frame up at the back with again 70x70 horizontal members. I backed this with ply and screwed loads of component draws to it. Every time I was beating Hell out of something on the bench the draws would rattle & vibrate open.

The pipe was put in and expanding foam squirted around and flushed off. I had to add 9mm ply to the face of the studs to allow for the dia of the 110mm pipe collar. I really don't know where to begin...you needed to have been here from the start of the journey... It's a long story...ask anyone here! Depending how bored you are: https://flic.kr/s/aHsk23FYzd

DON'T bolt to the wall! Have it freestanding. Not a good idea if you're bashing the granny out of something it'll vibrate the walls and shelves.

This is mine:

If you do make your own battens then tie them together on trestles to make like a big blockboard when you treat them. Saves on wastage.

Only other place I've found so far, pricier though! https://www.cisternfittings.co.uk/macdee-compact--side-entry--inlet-float-valve-dvc100-8264-p.asp

Have you thought of stilts?

I think it's a Macdee DVC100...now discontinued...I think. EDIT: So if you can find one...buy it!

Cr@p photo there Dave! Is it one of these: http://www.toiletspares.co.uk/compact-inlet-valve.html

Could you double board it using 11mm?

I'd make the battens out of what you've got. As for going thru them just make sure you tread on where the roof joists are. You can always draw a say red marker line on the "white" felt. Can't beat traditional Creosote imo. If you want them in a pretty colour then a penetrating one like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Barrettine-Premier-Wood-Preserver-8-Colours-5L/352016420383?var=621535329384&hash=item51f5d04e1f:g:OjgAAOSwWxNY2ma1 Lots of the shed & fence stuff just sits on top.

Too late now but I'd have put a pit in if only a shallow one.

Sorry, what other classics are there?

Just remember with a garage.....it's very little effort to incorporate UFH pipes in the slab. For future habitable space or just more comfortable working on your classic Ford!

I'm thinking of making a scale model of the bathroom...

Whilst I'm NOT an Erbauer fan by any means they do I believe make multipurpose blades compatible with the Evolution range of saws. I noted tonight on a Screwfix flyer cheap blades: https://www.screwfix.com/search?search=erbauer+multipurpose I might grab a 185 & 255mm for my two Evolution saws here.

Any use? https://www.fixmyroof.co.uk/videos-and-guides/pitched-roof/slate-a-roof/

Cheers all. Noted I can get away with a 2 rather than 3m long one too. Present run is a bit round the houses! I'll lay the new one in a bit of trunking to protect from the witch and her broom!

Nah, only does it occasionally. Best change it now before we get snowed in though.

Did you call Peter? If not do you want me to make an enquiry?

My capillary fire valve on the oil boiler keeps tripping. Teddington appears to be the make. No problems sourcing them but do I need a 65 or 90 degree one? It's mounted just above the burner on a bracket. No markings on the valve outside it's that old:

When I used to have a lot of ppc done back in the day, (Syntha Pulvin was the name of choice) they would always supply tins of touch up paint and touch up "sticks".

Sorry! Nothing screw wise so far.