Onoff

+1. Before you do the routing you can lay one worktop against the long wall then lay the other one on top of it at NOMINAL right angles (suitably packed up). Thin masking tape is your friend doing worktops btw. I'd have been lost without my chippy mate teaching me. Mitred corners are fun:

Seems they're BOTH, my DeWalt & your Elu the dog's danglies for worktops: http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/104266-dw625e-lx-type-6-a-2.html

Yep, noticeably so. Picking it up one handed is a feat. This thing is a proper big boy's toy. The weight is off putting at first but the stability and control it affords offsets that. The bearings on this are superior and it has slow start too. DW625E LX: It wouldn't take prisoners if you got it wrong but you might not feel it!

The 110V DeWalt I have here is a proper beast. Heavy but so, so smooth.

Worktop jigs can have different pin holes for different width worktops. Always clamp your jig. Always cut from left to right. Plan your cuts so you'll only ever break out through a chipboard face at the end of the cut NOT the "melamine" face. Routers make damn good edge planers for ordinary Contiboard - jigsaw to within say 3mm of the required cut line then use the router to finish against a clamped fence. Have you a biscuit joining tool or bit for the router? No.20 biscuits too. I was lucky, my chippie mate versed me on routing! Mottled patterns are more forgiving! This is a breakfast bar made in the cheap with standard worktop that had only one rounded edge:

.You could.....rip it out of the wall, repair and whack it in a length of surface trunking "just for now". Or, depending where the switch is now, move it up above the damage. I've actually lowered one light switch to 1200 via crimping a new bit of T&E on.

This was to demo joining two bits of T&E, 2.5mm new & old in this case, (note the cpc (earth) might be smaller): Dead easy on a bench, fiddly in a wall, even getting the crimping tool in of course: Strip the sheaths: Stagger the joints so you don't get the "python after a large meal" bulge in the middle. The join needs to be long enough so you can slip the heatshrink on and slide along far enough to do the crimping and ideally shrink the crimp without affecting the tubular head shrink: Strip the ends: Heatshrink slipped on BEFORE you crimp! Crimp heat shrunk - has glue in that melts and sticks to the core: Green / yellow sleeving on. SOMETIMES as said above you might want a smaller crimp for the cpc: Cpc done: All neatly crimped, old colours for the heatshrink 'cos I've got it: Heatshrink over the top: Chuck it in the wall and get plastering! Similarly it could be soldered but make damn sure you get no sharp wispy bits of solder that might poke through the heatshrink!

No, not mine but clearly from the same school of thought! Only difference is I used heat shrink crimps to g'tee no moisture is ever getting in that crimp! Ordinary crimps are fine though.

ISOLATE THE POWER!!! ...before you do anything. Potentially, touching that screw you could get a lethal belt. You need to expose the cable which will mean digging it out to expose. Crimping is fine. I have some idiots guide pictures to doing a proper job somewhere.

Get your kids to take the model in and pretend they made it. Unwashed, holes in their clothes, maybe borrow a malnourished dog; "Please Mister, can we have a new house!" style, that should sway it!

I bought some off eBay via a link from someone on here and though the first tube I used was OK part used tubes don't seem to last, going hard in the tube. Two factors in guessing...I'm a slowcoach but also I wonder is EBT more susceptible to going off if you don't seal it up? With some silcones you can I think just let the bit in the nozzle set and change out for a new nozzle. I'm particularly diligent & I'll tape the end with insulating tape but this didn't seem to make any difference on this EBT I have. Reminds me, I have a wet room kit with a use by date...

Why not just ring Cromar and ask? https://www.cromarbuildingproducts.com

There's another thread on here for that...

Cheap? https://www.google.co.uk/search?client=ms-android-samsung&sa=X&biw=320&bih=454&tbm=shop&noj=1&q=ufh+thermostat&oq=ufh+thermostat&gs_l=mobile-gws-serp.12..0.4762.12075.0.13201.10.7.3.0.0.0.118.615.5j2.7.0....0...1.1j4.64.mobile-gws-serp..0.3.213....0.mf5c_cQf7fU&srpd=1601642334312560179&ved=0ahUKEwjxuPHIy_jWAhVBChoKHe7yA1cQnUAIgAE&prds=pid:1601642334312560179,sgro:iv,mvi:0

How so? I had Kodi on a couple of pcs (Windoze & 'nix) here but it stopped working. Was running Navi-X on them. Was OK but there was no way I could let the kids on it because of the available content. With one on the telly I'd like to retain it's (the Pi) functionality as a pc for simple browsing but for it to default to "Netflix" (or Kodi).

When I get a spare half hour at night I've been quite impressed with Netflix. Currently using a laptop running Ubuntu 16.04 connected to the (non smart) telly. Thinking to get a Pi 3 and run Ubuntu on that. Can it be configured to boot straight into Netflix when it powers up? As in I just use the TV remote to switch to that HDMI input and Netflix is"there"?

Multitool and a possibly a diamond blade (hoping your grout line is wide): https://www.saxtonblades.co.uk/fein-multimaster-bosch-makita-compatible-blades/diamond-coated-blades Going to have to sacrifice that tile of course. @Nickfromwales will be along to correct me shortly!

Try kids with a booming stereo upstairs etc!

Get some silicone grease and follow this guide on how to fit F connectors. Fit n forget: http://www.satcure.co.uk/tech/fplugs.htm

Page 5 of the install manual says the supply pipe must be fitted with a pressure reduction valve: https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.genvex.dk/en/products/combinated/combi-185-bp/&ved=0ahUKEwiHtaag9PXWAhWEORoKHf9kB5IQFghGMAo&usg=AOvVaw15g1a-4AjOv14v6hhfd60d And page 7 shows a 6 Bar safety valve on the diagram...

Passover? Well, it all adds up & you've gotta save a penny or two!

I've actually repaired Tower valves with bits from Maplin before...

Plenty of mole repeller circuits out there? Something like this buried in a tin can maybe: http://www.electroschematics.com/2570/ultrasonic-pest-repeller-circuit/

Don't you want a 4 core for the smokes? Pure copper too for the CAT-6 not that CCA shite. CCTV over the network I assume?

The proper name for dwangs!