Onoff

Get some nice cheap, sloppy Slik door gear. It's the AK47 of the pocket door world, it just works!

Like Nigella?

Do you mean aliens?

Don't forget reflexologists!

Haven't you already got a DPM under the slab / DPM at the base of the blocks where they sit on the slab? If so, and the blocks are being clad externally, I can't see the issue of how they will get damp hence maybe leave as is.

The 5mm gap is the gap to aid fitting. It MUST be filled otherwise it's just a route for the outside cold. The expanding foam has enough "give". You will need a proper foam gun and low expansion foam, gun cleaner etc. I'd also run some masking tape up the window before you do it. The absolute ideal, professional method is to use an expanding foam tape like Coompriband before the window goes in. Around the outside of the window and cill is a channel. You stick this tape on only when you know the window fits and you have to be quick about it. The tape then expands from say 5mm thick to 25mm thick and seals between window and wall. Those in the know here actually go to the lengths of, in effect, applying airtight tape around their windows to where they meet the walls. It's all very well btw, sealing everything up but you must consider ventilation to. Have your windows got trickle vents fitted?

Were there wooden windows there before, that the uPVC windows replaced? Have you got cavity walls? Two brick / block skins separated by a cavity. The ideal when fitting a replacement window is a 5mm gap all round but perhaps had to achieve in practice unless you DIY, chip bits of wall out to measure the old wooden frame exactly etc. A firm you get in won't go to the nth degree and likely allow a bit more. Or as you and I know a LOT more to make fitting easier. They won't give a sh!t you're left with draughty gaps forever. The ones that did some of my windows didn't even use foam. Tbh I'm not sure what I'm looking at there ref that black DPC. Yes, that's what it is, judging by the diamond pattern in it. Comes in rolls 100 - 200mm or more wide. Traditionally, wooden frame windows would be wrapped in a damp proof membrane to stop the frames getting damp and transferring damp/cold, from the outer to inner wall leaf (assuming a cavity). Is it wrapped around the uPVC frames and just tucked over inside? I've seen folk wrap a uPVC i.e "plastic" window in more plastic before, insisting it "stops damp" ? @craig is our resident window expert and can probably best advise what you might have there and the history of fitting.

Acoustic tiles? I used to line the WC reveal and deaden the flush / fill noise: Or egg boxes... ?

It was a thinly veiled jibe ref your prowess with the stuff! ? Seriously though, isn't the humidistat just doing its job? I reckon if I got the UFH going it'd help dry the wet room floor out and the fan wouldn't have to work so hard.

Maybe there's leak on a solvent welded joint?

Sort that plug top out, f***ing bodger! ? Surely you've wet towels in there? The humidistat on my simple extract fan stays on basically until they're dry!

@Gone West, I can't remember, what happened to your blog, why is it gone? You should write a book of the build btw, I'd buy it! This is a bit of an aside to the OP's thread (apologies) but was was your daily energy requirement for heating the old place including running the Genvex & heat recovery?

Something I wrote in another thread. "Once the low expansion foam can is on the gun you leave it on until it is empty. You do not take the foam can off to clean in between uses unless you need to change foam types. You use the gun cleaner with the red nozzle on to clean excess, WET foam from around the nozzle (and anything you might get it on accidentally). You undo the knob screw at the back of the gun to adjust the foam flow rate and squeeze the trigger. When finished for the day you turn the knob to close the valve and clean the end. Put it aside and pick up the next day or next week, month etc. When the can is empty: Have an open plastic bag/bin liner ready. Have the gun cleaner at the ready with the red nozzle on. Unscrew the empty can quickly and put straight in the bin bag. Pick up the gun cleaner and use like an aerosol to spray up inside where the can screws on as some foam will be coming out there. Then screw the gun cleaner into the gun and give a blast thru pointing the nozzle into the bin liner. Remove the gun cleaner and screw on your new can of foam. After you have used the gun then yes you can leave it upright with the foam can still screwed on, with the base of the can on the floor for however long you want within reason. Cleaning these guns doesn't mean a quick squirt through. Pretty sure the instructions say to put the gun cleaner on and leave for X minutes before blasting through finally. This is more for if you want to thoroughly clean the gun and store without a can on".

The 5mm gap you can see might widen across the width of the frame. Whatever, 5mm will be like draught city at the same time as losing heat. Some window foaming fun here:

? I put a hatch in for BG to inspect the flue. The BG engineer who came last decided it was the "loft". Said on the lines it could be a problem if you were clambering about in the loft and knocked the flue. Forget for a minute you can't get in there at all easily, the space above the bathroom extension, because of the flue. Whatever I'll strap it up to the wall behind and roof joists above.

Corrected that for you.

Careful what you wish for unless you can handle the celebratory Full Monty. There lies madness/blindness. Think Sam Neill/Event Horizon etc!

Now you've nothing to do, do you fancy finishing my bathroom? ?

Sorry, I meant well done you, really pleased for you and yours! ?

Still, it helped pay for it all ?

Unfortunately you're wrong! ? Yours are wood screws plain and simple. Concrete screws have a much "rougher", thread with extra thread forms so it bites. They also need a Torx bit to drive them rather than a Pozi bit like your screw. This reflects the extra torque required to drive them in and that you don't really want to be slipping when driving them! PM me your address and I'll send you a sample. I think I only have 100mm long ones left though. Tbh I prefer (the grey) frame fixings for windows. If you hit a mortar joint with the concrete screws they'll likely just mince it up and not hold.

No they're not. These are: By frame fixings they usually mean these. You drill a hole the same diameter as the grey bit and knock in. Bosch multi construction bits will drill through your uPVC frame and into the wall. This a 10mm one so you would use 10mm frame fixings. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1004205987?iid=353457637942