Onoff

Small villages can be very cliquey. Lots of people with FA else to focus on. Our GP told the truth to a patient and was eventually hounded out. Talk about a pack mentality ganging up on him! Top bloke imo. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2086062/amp/Rude-GP-Dr-Richard-Dunn-told-patient-Youll-die-horrible-death.html

Big fan of Jet Blue Plus compound on brass fittings. Suitable in potable fittings too.

I tend to use U-Pol etch primer for most things now. However you might consider Hammerite Special Metals Primer. Looks like a thin red oxide. I've used it on aluminium, copper, galvanised steel and stainless and it's pretty good...despite it being made by Hammerite! ?

What do I love about the lights here? When they're all off and I can't see the sh!t hole and amount of work needed!

Had my first Quinetic switch fail yesterday. 1 gang of a 2 gang switch. It clicks etc like normal but won't pair or make any sign of communicating with the 6A receiver. New switch fitted.

I believe that welding causes changes to the composition of stainless steel.

Lots of places to hide bodies round my way... ?

Don't do it! Take it from someone with a single pipe system (me).

Poor cow, that'd be one either side.

I used dpc, stapled to the timbers, atop the support pads and just angled it a bit as necessary to shed sitting water.

TightVNC? https://www.tightvnc.com/

AnyDesk?

Or a complete new language, Pocsbian has a nice ring to it...

Not fair! First thing I thought of when I read the title and saw it was you.

You can buy handrail, baserail and spindle sections quite easily. For example: https://www.diy.com/departments/building-supplies/stairs-stair-parts/stair-parts/DIY830487.cat To bling up that centre post just route the edge, pin on some mouldings, a combo of both.

I'd be sticking a fake orange planning notice on the pole in the dead of night. New halfway house, traveller pitch etc.

I made mine but then I would...

No burning embers to contend with either, when your lying on the rug in front of it! ?

Bet that kitchen is solid, Schreiber or something like that. All just clicked together with metal brackets.

With gaps such as above and the practice of "foam filling" afterwards, isn't there a danger of the foam bridging the ventilation void across the full width, between the rafter? I mean, you can't see how much it's expanding the other side. Is it an issue?

Me too. I clamped timber either side and used low expansion foam. Worked a treat and no distortion.

An excuse to get the Vaseline out if you haven't any proper silicone grease: http://www.satcure.co.uk/tech/fplugs.htm

You do realise your elderly neighbour points and says "That's the bloke that's always got wood for me!"

The sill detail is likely something like this:

Sorry, bodgers. In and out, quick as. Imo bits of paper and certs can mean very little. Easy to buy into a club. A big problem is that as they've put a screw in from the top (again a bodge) they haven't kept the sill tight to the frame hence the gap. You might not be able to push the sill up as the screw threads will stop it. Did they use expanding tape or foam around the top and sides? Or is the foam packed you refer to pushed in foam? @craig?