Onoff

You need to know the dimns between centres of flush and poo pipes to make sure they match the Geberit frame. You then need the dimn from top of porcelain to say poo pipe to set your frame.

You need to get the section drawing drawing for the pan! Something like this: Even then mine didn't quite match up. I only set the frame height once I had the pan.

With even 300mm of EPS under his slab, a member here with a super insulated house build calculated an 8% heat loss down through the floor. 100mm is not enough.

More like assessed by someone on commission, eager for another helping from a government scheme. There are many trades jumping on all these cash bandwagons that legislation and so on has created. Part P scheme membership, FENSA etc. I bet the bloke in The Times had an MCS registered company install his kit. Where's the comeback? Recourse after it all goes wrong is often painful. The Government haven't a clue to start with and are only interested in ticking a box and spouting that under so and so's leadership X number of heat pumps were installed. Whether they work or not, who cares but they will quote a potential saving in greenhouse gases as it makes a good sound bite. Cowboys are cowboys whether they have a bit of paper and pay into a boy's club or not. Dangle a wad of cash in front of many and they'll likely take it without wanting to put in the work to earn it. This forum shows what can be done by "amateurs" who above all are interested in and believe in what they are doing. Look at some of the roofing projects undertaken, by and large first class with an attention to detail that would shame many a professional. How many "builders" even understand the concept of air tightness or would go the extra mile if they were short of 400mm of tape. I'm not saying that there aren't decent trades out there but I'd suggest the system will see the cowboys continuing to get paid whether they do a good job or not. Those silly f***ers gluing themselves to the roads might be better if they protested about standards and oversight of all these schemes.

Anything lime heavy is far too white for our liking. Worst case it fails and I have to take them all out and redo. This is the mix I'm going with. - 3 soft - 1 sharp (figured it'd add strength and maybe some interest with the fines in it) - 1 opc - 1 lime (for plasticity/self healing) Happy with the test piece, its colour and edges around the flint: Plan is to, once dry, treat with maybe one of the waterproofing creams and repeat as required. Goes against the grain of traditional flint walling I appreciate. Let's face it, they wouldn't have had such waterproofing coatings back in the day.

As alluded to above SWMBO has chosen some very pretty but unfortunately shallow flints that have very little tail. If I were to clean each flint (dishwasher?) then "glue" a small offcut of stainless mesh to the back would that work?

Bet you saw a few fun guys in them though! ?

Aka shou sugi ban!

I'd go a couple of footing bricks high or even cast a concrete ring beam at least 150mm high. I'd liquid DPM the resultant "pond" then lay a sheet DPM. Then fill with pir and top with 22mm flooring. That's just me...I'm weird.

I wonder if it's worth cleaning and painting with a primer containing a biocide? Indeed doing the same for any new wood you fit. Something like this: https://www.zinsseruk.com/product/bulls-eye-1-2-3/ Reassuringly expensive btw!

Oh, sorry, bought a paper copy and it's in Bricks & Mortar section. https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/my-heat-pump-cost-me-thousands-and-no-one-will-repair-it-w7ps6n57n & https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/house-of-the-week-britains-first-off-the-shelf-eco-house-that-can-actually-earn-you-money-hvbz9gkzv

A piece in The Times today about a Nick Palmer and his 200 year old farmhouse. How his 6kW Aeromax heat pump, installed in 2012 doesn't work properly, annual leccy bill of £2K, in his opinion the original calcs were wrong etc, etc. I'm just loving what looks like a sash window in the background! Elsewhere I do like the Wunderhaus...just not the price.

Pan height, really important to work it out and get it right when you put your frame in and adjust the height. Some discussions here on page 20 of my mega thread. You need to refer to the dimensions of the pan you're fitting etc. I went with 445mm from finished floor to top of closed seat (not lid) i.e. the bit your ar5e hits:

I used coach screws for the side fixings, into the stud work. The sort you do up with a ratchet and socket. I had to unclip the cistern and lean it back to get to those. Mine fixed to what was a blocked up doorway so was quite deep, I made up extensions for the top. Resin anchored the studs in: Bottom into concrete: I lined the recess with sound absorption panels: I glued 9mm ply to the front of my frame as I had to bring the wall out by that much: Test fit the Aqua Panel to go over the front: A bit of Sikaflex over the ply:

CT1...

Spot on that, less smell hopefully. You could probably pretty that up with some black concrete paint or even liquid DPM.

Aren't they already a thing?

I try and give him these little projects to keep him occupied. Needs to be finding a job really. With a good computer science degree it shouldn't be that hard! Oh well, I'll have to let him loose on the magazine fed, stacking toilet roll holder dispenser with digital roll counter project I've been mulling for a few years! ?

Got one of those little drill presses years ago, the type you'd lock your B&D mains drill in to drill reasonably plumb holes. Nothing I've got now fits it. Gave it, one of my Makitas and a Vernier to No.1 son and left him to get on with it. Came up with this: This slips onto the drill that slides over the blue casting. Appears to fit nicely. Where the drill fits in is actually tapered and he's got that pretty much bang on. Got to find the original plastic, ,"top hat" liners that go inside the blue casting. If not will print a pair! As it was a test, only 5% infill but surprisingly strong.

Do you see much of the CLF down there? In a Toby carvery last night and the grandad at the next table said about their increasingly uppity 2 'ish year old, "We'd best take home home, he's getting a bit stabby!"

100% better than it was already.

It was my Mum who got mugged. Cut a long story she was mugged on her way to bingo which she loved by a couple of scumbag opportunists. She gave chase and dived through their open car window to try and get her handbag back. They drove off and she fell into the road. Broke her arm I think it was that time. Never went back to bingo ?

Certain exposures can be beneficial to our immune systems but it's been documented and talked about in recent years how certain mould spores might contribute to or even lead to certain forms of dementia. Mainly the pieces are from the States so I guess we should be talking about "mold" ? For instance: https://www.alzdiscovery.org/cognitive-vitality/blog/can-mold-harm-your-brain If in doubt get rid I'd say! My old Mum was fastidious about cleaning and spent many years as a housekeeper to a few minted households. This as well as keeping on top of our house. Windows were always opened, cobwebs gotten rid of etc. In later years, after a mugging, she became quite reclusive in the home, drawing curtains, barricading doors and windows and developing an obsession with closing windows if opened. Black mould spots soon built up in the corners of the rooms due to lack of cleaning and ventilation. She was diagnosed with mixed dementia. I have to wonder whether it was the years of breathing in dust, Mr Sheen, Ajax & Vim, or the mould spores that triggered it! ?

I put up an old shed that tbh I should have chopped up and used for firewood. I had this mad idea to "insulate" it. In some areas there's a breathable membrane on the outside under the timber cladding. Between uprights I foam gunned. The thing is I put 6mm ply over this that soon went speckly and mouldy. What I did was wash down with a bleach in water solution and paint with a shed and fence treatment, chestnut I think it was. They do loads of colours, pastels etc that might suit. I'd maybe do a test panel. I figure if the surface is water repellent, it's less damp thus less hospitable to mould.

Naughty boy ! Save that for Friday treats