Onoff

I've not done a air gap / service cavity build up yet but am planning to. As above there's two particular rooms / wall make ups in my house that I have retrofitted: Bathroom: Original: Render/4" brick/2" cavity/4" brick I added: 2 - 4" pir between battens/vcl/12.5mm plasterboard or Aqua Panel/tiles. Bloody freezing! Due I'm sure to the UFH not being connected, nor the towel radiator. On the North facing wall the pir insulation layer is tapered from 2" one end to at least 4" (maybe 6" thinking some more) the other end of a 3m wall. Behind the illuminated pocket is only 1" of pir. It tapers as I squared the room off by studding it out. I've only got 100mm pir in the ceiling (at the moment) below a cold loft and loads of ceiling penetrations to make good. High hopes though when it's all done. Also got 150mm pir + 25mm EPS under the floor. This room though will be very near airtight when done. Study: Original: Render/4" block I added: 60mm cavity with 50mm Rockwool batts/4" block/50mm battens with 50mm Rockwool batts in between/12.5mm plasterboard. Warmest room in the house. 4" roll insulation under the floor between joists. 11" fluffy roll above the ceiling. 1 small double rad. Though there's no vcl anywhere in the study but my attention to detail at joints and junctions is pretty good so can only help.

How about a bit of walk on glazing to look down onto the old footings?

If I were you I'd be wondering whether or not to tile at all and use wall panels instead!

I've done exactly that myself before, however, knowing what I know now... You get cold bridging through the battens. You've also got to dig into the 50mm pir to run cables in channels, or conduit etc. Easy to put extra sockets in with the service cavity (you can save cable too by going horizontal between sockets). Plenty of benefit for losing that extra inch.

Could you afford to lose nom. 82.5mm inside? 50mm pir, 25mm battens then 12.5mm plasterboard? It'd give you an uninterrupted, nom. airtight, 50mm insulation layer, a 25mm cavity for cabling. You could use 35mm dry lining boxes for sockets and switches. I'm thinking of doing exactly that.

Just sat and worked out I've 8 different external wall make ups here. 1) Render/9" block/1"batten/1/4" hardboard. 2). Render/9" solid brick/render/plaster. 3) Render/4" brick/2" cavity/4" brick/2 - 4" pir/vcl/12.5mm plasterboard or Aqua Panel/tiles 4) Render/4" block/60mm cavity with 50mm Rockwool batts/4" block/50mm battens with 50mm Rockwool batts/12.5mm plasterboard. 5) Render/4" block/render/plaster 6) Render/9" block/render/plaster 7) Render/4" brick/2" cavity/4" brick/render/plaster 8)Tiles / felt / 12mm ply / 4" studs with 100mm roll insulation / 3/8" plasterboard. 4) Is the warmest room in the house. Be easier to knock my place down ?

All a bunch of C**ts! Celts that is...

I seen to remember our Ulster born and bred German teacher saying when he lived in Germany he was complimented on his German for basically lack of a foreign accent.

They're just Geberit copycats.

More ginger, bloodshot eyed, strong smelling and very, very drunk surely?

Basically giving you the old two fingered salute.

Think he extruded a line of triangles on the X axis, then the same on the Y. To get like a "mat" of pyramids.

There's some really clever stuff done with 3D scanning of affected limbs. Enables exact fitting prostheses to perfectly fit the stump or whatever. Used in restorative dental work today. Mulling building a simple scanner here at the moment (uses a mobile phone strapped to it). Could push your hand into algenate or similar, cast in plaster, 3D scan, make a socket etc. There's a lot more to it than that in terms of comfortable fit etc. How about an exoskeleton for your hand with the missing finger(s) "driven" by the remaining ones? ?

I reckon you must have a leaky roof.

Just because you have 100, 90 or whatever mm on the walls doesn't mean you have to have it so thick at the reveals.

The Lidl set doesn't have one in ? I think you mean a riffler file?

Nice files. I won't be contravening the VCRA any time soon trust me!

Bloody kids.

Do you have trouble keeping it "fed"?

What for a Star Wars blaster?

Indeed, I was assuming to do it properly you would need to add MVHR. Saying that there must be cold bridging issues at the floor adding EWI to existing housing stock and no continuity at the ceiling. Is it "worth it" without addressing those other two areas?

Is it an issue if there's a gap between the back of the EWI panel and original wall face? I'm thinking that may be unavoidable anyway if your original wall isn't plumb or the finish stippled, rough etc. Presume the new EWI goes in nice and plumb?

So now I have to figure the trigger (that rhymes ?). In the original box section type it's quite simple as the inside faces of the box side walls provide a bearing surface for the plastic trigger: Shouldn't be insurmountable though. A bit of time on the CAD should have it figured. I'm thinking it'll be a case of cutting a slot with a Dremel in the underside of the copper pipe. It's amazing what you can do with a Dremel and all the various cutting discs and grinding stones, that and some needle files: I need to sort that bottom corner where I overshot with the grinding tool. (Yet another unfinished project ?)

Says the master! ? What system is that out of interest? I presume it all starts with a bottom rail, straight and true? Do you block any existing air bricks? What's the m2 cost on materials excluding labour roughly? Cheers

Steady on now, there's the whole not losing interest / finishing it issues to overcome yet! ? The great thing about this 3D stuff is it's scaleable. So you could make a bigger one for bigger loads or bigger operators even. Good old Fred Taylor! Interesting with your situation hand wise as you could make custom grips etc. A wrist brace might compensate for lack of hand strength to hold the thing and so on.