Onoff

Sort that plug top out, f***ing bodger! ? Surely you've wet towels in there? The humidistat on my simple extract fan stays on basically until they're dry!

@Gone West, I can't remember, what happened to your blog, why is it gone? You should write a book of the build btw, I'd buy it! This is a bit of an aside to the OP's thread (apologies) but was was your daily energy requirement for heating the old place including running the Genvex & heat recovery?

Something I wrote in another thread. "Once the low expansion foam can is on the gun you leave it on until it is empty. You do not take the foam can off to clean in between uses unless you need to change foam types. You use the gun cleaner with the red nozzle on to clean excess, WET foam from around the nozzle (and anything you might get it on accidentally). You undo the knob screw at the back of the gun to adjust the foam flow rate and squeeze the trigger. When finished for the day you turn the knob to close the valve and clean the end. Put it aside and pick up the next day or next week, month etc. When the can is empty: Have an open plastic bag/bin liner ready. Have the gun cleaner at the ready with the red nozzle on. Unscrew the empty can quickly and put straight in the bin bag. Pick up the gun cleaner and use like an aerosol to spray up inside where the can screws on as some foam will be coming out there. Then screw the gun cleaner into the gun and give a blast thru pointing the nozzle into the bin liner. Remove the gun cleaner and screw on your new can of foam. After you have used the gun then yes you can leave it upright with the foam can still screwed on, with the base of the can on the floor for however long you want within reason. Cleaning these guns doesn't mean a quick squirt through. Pretty sure the instructions say to put the gun cleaner on and leave for X minutes before blasting through finally. This is more for if you want to thoroughly clean the gun and store without a can on".

The 5mm gap you can see might widen across the width of the frame. Whatever, 5mm will be like draught city at the same time as losing heat. Some window foaming fun here:

? I put a hatch in for BG to inspect the flue. The BG engineer who came last decided it was the "loft". Said on the lines it could be a problem if you were clambering about in the loft and knocked the flue. Forget for a minute you can't get in there at all easily, the space above the bathroom extension, because of the flue. Whatever I'll strap it up to the wall behind and roof joists above.

Corrected that for you.

Careful what you wish for unless you can handle the celebratory Full Monty. There lies madness/blindness. Think Sam Neill/Event Horizon etc!

Now you've nothing to do, do you fancy finishing my bathroom? ?

Sorry, I meant well done you, really pleased for you and yours! ?

Still, it helped pay for it all ?

Unfortunately you're wrong! ? Yours are wood screws plain and simple. Concrete screws have a much "rougher", thread with extra thread forms so it bites. They also need a Torx bit to drive them rather than a Pozi bit like your screw. This reflects the extra torque required to drive them in and that you don't really want to be slipping when driving them! PM me your address and I'll send you a sample. I think I only have 100mm long ones left though. Tbh I prefer (the grey) frame fixings for windows. If you hit a mortar joint with the concrete screws they'll likely just mince it up and not hold.

No they're not. These are: By frame fixings they usually mean these. You drill a hole the same diameter as the grey bit and knock in. Bosch multi construction bits will drill through your uPVC frame and into the wall. This a 10mm one so you would use 10mm frame fixings. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1004205987?iid=353457637942

You could camouflage it...think I'd avoid netting in case wildlife get caught up in it...wrap it with a couple of big cable ties? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Napacoh-Artificial-Simulation-Furniture-Ornament/dp/B08MT39FN6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?

I would say that's a clay pipe that's been relined in the past with one of those inflatable linings that sets in place.

That soil pipe somewhat detracts!

Only thing that babbles here is SWMBO! As posted before I can occasionally look out on this when the road floods during heavy rain!

So you'll want a decent hearth stone for your stove to sit on and something behind to protect the wall. I'm thinking slate considering your locale? Then the "how" to do your chimney! The clever people will be along shortly!

I would imagine these things see a fair bit of use on canal boats and in caravans. I'd be happy getting 15 years service. I'm just jealous you'll have your own little escape pod to sit in next to a babbling brook with a wee dram and a good read! ? Imagine that...thick snow...bliss! I'd at least put up a battery smoke alarm in there in case you drift off in your rocking chair and have an extinguisher on the wall too.

Some recommendations here:

I think it looks very nice. The maker appears genuine. Saying about stoves gone back for a refurb, one of his early ones being 15 years old etc. Nice too it's made in England. https://m.facebook.com/champstoveco/?locale2=en_GB

Just make sure to clean that rough face really well of any moss, algae, little seeds etc. I'd add water proofer to the mix. If you do you could probably do away with the bit of DPM. 1 of cement, 4 of all in one ballast. Belt and braces would be to drill the existing face and put some Rawlplugs in with stainless screws poking out for the new concrete to key onto. How thick will this new facing/tidy up piece be?