Simplysimon

there are quite a few stone buildings which have been retrofitted to passive standards https://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/holmfirth-farmhouse-radical-retrofit-internal-wall-insulation-iwi-strategy/

@JAS-Build unfortunately @BenS hasn't been on since 2017

that was my first thought, perhapsthey were designed to come out if the first scenario happened and weren't ?

i'm trying to rationalize this, if it only happens with wind driven rain and the top coat is there to prevent water ingress to substrate, how is the wall managing to dry out so quickly? or is it that the top coat material is breathable? tbh i didn't read through first two posts and this may have been mentioned.

are they the correct tiles for the angle of the roof?

that just brought up a thought of @pocster playing dueling banjos

nothing as far as i can see. no need for extra cover as vertical, however, if timber batten then there will be a gap between first row of slates where water will penetrate and possibly sit on top of batten if not bevelled. how are you fixing as they may rattle?

absolutely, don't ever back down ?

grow a pair and stand up for yourself. looks better than the rendering, adds a bit of texture to the room

what do you mean by 'our estate agent'?

prior to the acid bath/pig food

scottish water wanted trench from road to point of stopcock so presume anglian are the same

it would be ideal if posters came back if/when issue was resolved, i know some do and it helps the community

'Designed to meet the strict requirements of Passiv-Haus standards, but without the typical downsides of super-efficient products.' clever, wonder if they've cracked perpetual motion as well. i know thw swiss did vacuum glazing units separated by small glass rods but wouldn't have thought they would be needed here unless it is to reduce the overall u value but as a 3g unit is down to about 0.5, how much better can it be?

do as they ask, put a post in on the boudary with pipe and double check valve. they can then only inspect that. we put in all ext pipe work and they wanted to inspect all that before they would make a connection. i stated that if i had put a standpipe in they could inspect that i could do whatever i wanted afterwards, they agreed but stated that as i had put the pipe in prior to connection they would need to inspect that as well.

the other option is to use s/h tiles and in 30 yrs replace them?

acoustic insulation between joists to cut down sound transmittance to upper floor. for a better job place resilient bars across joists and fix p/board to them

so for dpm read dpc? shouldn't need a dpm under a b&b floor unless it's in the solum

might be alright, however, as stated, timber will move and if it can't move at the t&g it could split the board. once saw a lovely 6 panel oak ext. door, the only problem was the dozy 'joiner' (wood worker) glued the panels into the grooves, first summer and every panel split

your bc allowed you to put beams on the ground! you lucky git. we had 'it's got to have 150mm min below'

i suppose it depends upon how old the reclaimed ones are, looking at 50-60yr lifespan for new. if they're still coloured, not repainted should be ok and how long are you staying in the property?

birdsmouth 1/3 depth of rafter so no excuse for the first 'mistake', when you say the rafters are skewed, by how much? it's not ideal but if it's the amount in the top pic and only the bottom half which seems skewed it should be ok. ideally the rafters should be at 90deg and the last one place with less than centers between it and angled wall. i suppose the only upside with the build methods down south not having a roof board covering means centres don't need to hit sheet sizes unless room in roof

not arguing that point, ok, i will, only if the cause can't be rectified, just some of the statements ? and pointing out issues with a 'remedy'

probably but if full house system have you considered how to run the pipework?