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Everything posted by Triassic
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Might be worth reading this post where a range of current prices are discussed.
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I'm inclined to think that the only people these schemes are on the radar of are here.
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My wife says she should have had me certified before we started!
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Interestingly, when I'd gone in to TP to price up the fencing mesh they insisted in giving me a new trade card, new computer system or something! As a result they emailed me a 'quote' for the fencing. So I fed back to them that their prices were cr@p. The day after I get a call from the accounts department who undertook to price up my QS generated list of materials for my new build and they said they would endeavour to be competitive. I'm going to take them up on the offer, so we will see!
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Ive just demolished a bungalow, built in 1938, and the bedroom walls were insulated with the same stuff, I say insulated, it was 1/2 thick. It was like new, but had sagged where it had been used across the ceilings it had sagged, we use to lay in bed and wonder at how it stayed in place.
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I've demolished my old house and in doing so collected a few piles of scrap metal, lead, copper, electric cable, cast iron and other mild steel. it got to the stage where I needed to get rid of the scrap, so a mate suggested ringing one of the Northwests largest scrap merchants for a price, they process around ten million tonnes of scrap per year. This would give me a price bench mark. I then phoned three local and one not so local scrap merchants for their price of each of the following type of scrap. My bench mark for lead was £1.53, the best price locally was £1.26 and the not so local price, £1.49. My bench mark for copper was £4.34, the best price locally was ££3.02 and the not so local price, £4.02. My bench mark price for cable was £1.50, the bst price locally was £0.77 and the not so local price, £1.43. So I took my scrap to the not so local scrap merchant and weighed in 27 kilos of copper and 213 kilos of lead, so my shopping around put an extra £62 in my pocket.
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Boots, shoes, trainers: steel, composite, which?
Triassic replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Tools & Equipment
I typically get around twelve months out of a pair of boots, my latest pair are the fell walking type boot with steel toe caps. In the past, when I did a lot of digging, I went for boots with the steel sole inserts. Probably the best were traditional wooden Lancashire steel toe capped clogs, I worked in those for around 20years. They were rugged and would last for years, they'd get resoled about every year and only get binned when the leather holding the steel toe in place wore through. Unfortunatly the firm who made them closed a good number of years ago.- 26 replies
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- safety boots
- trainers
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I needed a 50m roll of green plastic mesh fencing, looking online the price was around £20 per roll. So as I was passing Travis Perkins I called in for a price, £48 +vat, the next port of call, the local independent BM, same price as TP. Finally I went to Screwfix, the same roll of fences £23.75 inc vat.
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To my mind these are two different things, the desktop/phase 1 is a historical review of the site looking at and for possible contamination that might affect human health or the structural integrity of any future foundations/building. The second is a soil survey looking at the geotechnical structure of the soil. Might be worth clarifying which is it the planner wants? He might want both!
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If I were doing it I'd have to use the Aldi rather than the Fein !
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Help me out of these holes, please!
Triassic replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Insulated Concrete Formwork (ICF)
You could made a simple diy slid hammer using some spare threaded bar and a couple of nuts.- 79 replies
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Search for your local,planning authority by name along with 'planning application' and you should come up with a page like this http://applications.southlakeland.gov.uk/planningapplications/welcome.asp you can use the advanced search facility to find local planning applications, open each of these up and you should find the planning application documents attached.
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I've done these in the past, easily done, start by looking at old maps for the plot. Focus on the plot, an old landfill 250m away is of no consequence for your plot and should be a foot note in an appendices and no more ! More details here https://www.gateshead.gov.uk/DocumentLibrary/Building/Guides/Phase1LandContaminationAssessment.pdf
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You're right the UK barn own is smaller. Here is a link to instructions and dimensions of an owl box suitable for the UK. http://www.barnowltrust.org.uk/barn-owl-nestbox/owl-boxes-for-trees/
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@Onoff no video! Thanks for the owl box plans, I might install one in a Scots Pine at the end of the garden, as we have a barn owl locally.
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Can't wait for the photos!
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Bring it on! Sooner rather than later. Maybe Grenfell will force change?!!
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With all this talk of cylinders, I thought this piece of research would interest some of you. The research project’s aim was to provide a definitive answer to how effective a copper coil type heat exchanger was, in comparison to that of a stainless steel coil. The results of the report found that using a copper hot water cylinder on an exact like for like specification reduced the heat up time of the water by 28.8% over stainless steel. https://www.mcdonald-engineers.com/sites/mcdonald/files/copper_v_stainless_research_report_-_small.pdf
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Neither have I !
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Can't wait! I'll be nice to meet the rest of the Buildhub crew!
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I chickened out......until
Triassic replied to ToughButterCup's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Once you've stuck the patch on with blobs of weld you could apply the squirts foam from the inside to seal any gaps! -
The demolition is nearly complete I've arranged for our local 'man and machine' to bring his 12 tonne machine to dig out the basement, the garden on the far side drops away quickly, so we'lll have a walk in basement where the old house stood. I've been listening to Charlie Luxton's videos of his foundation build and he mentioned 'power floating', they were using a long boom, with a broad flat float on the end. I'd always thought power floating was done using a petrol driven rotary machine with four floats, on each of four legs under the machine. I'm left wondering which method is best? What did you use and why?
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I chickened out......until
Triassic replied to ToughButterCup's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
There's got to be some satisfaction in cutting back to good steel and welding in a new bit. Personally I'd go with MIG rather than stick. -
We've painted our storage containers Matt olive green drab and they blend in to the woodland background to the extent that visitors say what containers? The problem I have is the different shades, if you search for RAL 6003 and look at them as a page of images you'll find at least 12 different shades of the same RAL colour. https://www.google.co.uk/search?client=firefox-b&biw=1024&bih=664&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=v12gWaTQM4WjwAK81bjQDQ&q=ral+6003&oq=ral+6003&gs_l=mobile-gws-img.12..0l2j0i30k1l3.9922.23195.0.24266.9.7.2.0.0.0.421.960.3j2j4-1.6.0....0...1.1.64.mobile-gws-img..2.5.393...35i39k1j0i67k1.KMmb5MVeSWI
