Triassic

I also assume I’ll need a drain in the room containing the thermal store, if so, what size? Would 40mm do? ps. I notice the guy whose picture i borrowed has used screw connections, I’d use solvent weld, less likely to leak?

Epic. Don’t you just love this forum! I have a feeling it won’t be long before the system is working as it should. Let’s hope we don’t have to wait twelve months for the next instalment.

A great partner at your side is an asset, mine is called a Debbie, she’s the one with the common sense, the design flair and project management qualifications and she’s just saved £150 on our self Build insurance because of them!

I’m starting to set out the waste pipes for a basement bathroom and was wondering what was best practice for such things. I had in mind something like this (see photo). My thinking was that if I shuttered around the pipes I could then have some flexibility fitting the sink, shower and bath. In my situation the toilet waste waste is in the middle so I was thinking of a boss on each side, rather than using a T piece, as in the example below. Once fitted and in their final position I’d then remove the temporary shuttering and concrete the pipes into place.

Ah, I missed that bit, easy enough to do with around 100 pages of blurb!

Having read the small print, Zurich may require an intruder alarm to be fitted? I assume they will tell me if this is the case at my build site? I assume this will only apply if you claim and they want to mitigate any future incident? Thoughts?

We’re planning in roof PV, so you also need to consider the saving on roofing materials.

Right, now I understand. I had in mind an UFH heating cooling system like Jeremy’s (I must re-read his blog!)

So current best practice would be a Sunamp, is there a general schematic showing the pipewoek layout (I’m moreof a visualisation learner). I assume it’ll do both UFH (low temp) and domestic hot water?

she’s not living in the area covered by this company. I’ve suggested she contact the council - http://www.preston.gov.uk/yourservices/housing/energy-efficiency/cavity-wall-loft-insulation/

As an apprentice it was drummed into us, “the jobs not finished until you've tidied up”. Mind you, my garage is a dumping ground !

A friend is disabled and she lives along, because of her condition she feels the cold, so I suggested she contact her energy supplier to see what schemes were available to help with loft insulation. She’s just phoned to say that their surveyor has just visited and told her because she has an upstairs bedroom which is contained under the roof, not a dormer, it’s classed as a room within a room so she’s not eligible under the scheme. Is anyone aware of any scheme without stupid rules?

Just to clarify, the ground surface is limestone bedrock, how deep into the rock would I need to dig ?

I’ve had the basement dug out into a hillside and I’ve just started levelling ready to install the insulated raft foundation. Before I do that, I need to install a foul drain to serve a bathroom, along with a spur to the storeroom containing the thermal store. The problem I have is that we hit limestone bedrock, so I’ll need to chisel out a slot around 20m long into which the Darin will go. What is the minimum depth the Building Inspector is likely to find acceptable?

How much should you pay via credit card to get the consumer Credit Act cover?

I’m starting to buy stuff for my self Build. I’ve been asked a few times to pay for large ticket items via BACS rather than card. Are there any downsides to paying via BACS?

The lowest price I could get was - EPS 300 at £12.21/m2 EPS 100 at £5.09/m2 The supplier was Varley Insulation, talk to Graham (the owner).

These test results might be of interest http://www.nudura.com/docs/default-source/tech-centre/NUDURA_FORM_CAPACITY_TESTING.pdf?sfvrsn=0

In the end I’ve decided to go with Amvic. They were a bit of a late entry into my selection process, the decision was mainly down to price, they were significantly cheaper than everyone else. For or those who like to see progress, here’s a photo of the hole for the walk in basement.

I asked my self build neighbour about his slate roof, he tells me is 70 year old mother in law sized the 3000ish second hand slated, then she and her daughter filled them all. I’m not sure I’d have the patience.

I’ve been getting quotes for self Build insurance and the quotes have varied by hundreds of pounds. I’m finding the process a bit opaque, you answer questions online or over the phone, each company asks vaguel similar questions, yet the quotes vary so much. So I thought I’d start by trying to understand what is it I’m insuring, the building, my tools stored on site, public liability, anything else? Is there a good standard in self Build insurance?

This ones only £20 for 30GB of data http://www.three.co.uk/Store/SIM/Plans_for_phones?id=1537&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkZHTBRCBARIsAMbXLhHLdNiIHt-GmPWNVZgrL_zy-2w2RmfcuVpDpaLB6Ug3vYvkx0o4LPAaAg8iEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&aidset=1

I’m just trying to finalise our site and insurance prior to construction work starting on site. The one thing I’m unsure about is the level of public liability insurance required, most insurers offer £2 million or £5 million. Any thought on what figure is appropriate. We’re in an isolated rural location if that makes any difference.

I found a design curve for the nichrome wire based on the volts and amps of the power supply, it suggested I need a 32 SWG (0.2743 mm) wire, 8 inch long, to suit my power supply. The power supply will be a low voltage lighting transformer rated at 12 volt and 5.4 amp. We will see how it works. I’ve bought 1 metre of wire so I can afford to burn and break a few !

After years of thinking and prevaricating, the basement hole has finally been dug, mind you it’s cost us twice as much as budgeted due to the hardness of various layers of limestone, hence my other question about value for money EOS sheets, which I’ll be ordering tomorrow. I’ve also ordered a length of nichrome wire for a home made hot wire cutter. Let the fun begin.