Triassic

My design calls for a type1 waterproofing system, hence the question about which membrane is bst for ICF. So far the architect, the SE and the ICF supplier have each made suggestions, on doing a bit of research two out of the three aren’t suitable for ICF due to the adhesives used.

I’m leaning towards Amvic at the moment. They’ve suggested using Grace Preprufe 4000.

Its solid limestone rock. ive removed any loose looking stuff, so I’m happy to go in and fix the waterproofing membrane.

That was going to be my next question, do I need a design or can I simply fit the pipe as per the diagram above.

Funnily enough, as soon as I started searching I was confronted with various sizes and material combinations... Qual-pex 16 x 1.5mm Pert-al-pert 25mm Pex-al-pex 16 x 2mm Pert-al-pert 20 x 2mm Pert-al-pert 18mm Pert-al-pert 12mm WARAS approved or British Standard? In the past I’ve bought too much and used the leftovers for general hot and cold water plumbing. So what would fellow self builders and Nick suggest?

An interesting thread, I’m planning to lay UFH in my basement floor. The next question is where to buy long lengths of pipe?

One of the reasons we went away from traditional timber shuttering was to get away from the need for people to enter the space between the surrounding rock and the shuttering. By using ICF we hope to be able to apply the waterproofing membrane as we place each of the seven layers of ICF. This should be posible to do from the inside.

Lizzie, yours was a kind offer. Don’t be disheartened by any negativity.

The ICF manufacturer have recommended Grace Pre-prufe tanking membrane. Being careful with the money I’d like to get three manufacturers prices as I need to get value for money. It’s a great idea to use a layer of EPS as protection for the ICF, particularly as I’m the one doing the backfilling, so I can be careful not to damage it.

Unfortunately Sika no longer provide a warranty waterproofing system for ICF having stopped in December. According to the technical person this was because she they were unable to check the integrity of the poured concrete, hence my interest in membranes.

No warranty needed, I just need to keep BC happy. The designed method is external waterproof membrane, hence the question about which membrane is best for ICF. just talked to one supplier, they no longer approve their membranes for use with ICF.

Do you have the drainage plans for the road next to your plot? Are there sewers in this road that might be more accessible?

A friend has just done a slightly sloping roof, he used 11mm ply and then fiberglasses the whole lot using an off the shelf system. As Jeremy said, you will want to spread any point load, so as to protect the roof finish. I tend to plank or board out such roofs before doing anything. ps. Why a flat roof, why not slate pitched roof?

I’m just about to start construction of my basement, it’s basically an open fronted box set into a hillside. After much peckering and the removal of 1500 tonnes of limestone we have a flat space for the insulated slab, onto which will sit ICF (insulated concrete form) basement walls. As three different people have been involved in the basement design, architect, Structural Engineer and ICF supplier, I have three different waterproofing membranes (three different manufacturers) mentioned on the various drawings. Can anyone recommend an easy to use membrane suitable for sticking to the polystyrene ICF? In addition, I also need a protection sheet to protect the wall insulation and the waterproof membrane, Corex has been mentioned. Is it easy to fix?

Lovely and warm in our super insulated cabin, 150mm of insulation in the walls, floor and roof.

It as a last minute addition to our planning application, we’d originally thought of having an old static caravan for the duration of the build, but a 12 foot wide caravan wouldn’t pass up an 8 foot drive and craning it over 75 foot tall trees wasn’t feasible because the road is too narrow for the size of the crane necessary. As as we live in a National Park, so we are hoping to let it out after the completion of the new build. The local expert recons we could get £500 per week! 60 weeks and it’s paid for!

I went with. Local steel stockholder, I told the they needed to deliver using a vehicle with a crane (Hyab), no problem, they came with a truck mounted crane that could lift 9 tonnes, a real monster of a thing at no extra cost.

Give it a couple of weeks and winter will be over!

Our price ncluded all the above, the only thing we didn’t need was the septic tank, as there was already one on site. We’re also on limestone so the ground was rock solid !

$15,000 new. So worth selling.

It has a double bedroom, a small bathroom with shower, an open plan living room kitchen and an occasional sleeping deck over the bedroom/bathroom. We’ve lived in it for nearly twelve months and love it. It takes twenty minutes each week to clean the place from top to bottom.

The one thing I’m not clear about is, has the TS and all the associated heat sources, boiler and solar panels and all the outlets to UFH been plumbed correctly? Ie. Is the solar thermal using the correct coils as per the manufacturers diagrams? Do the UFH feed and return leave and join in the right places? Also, how many pumps are there in this system and are they all required, if one of these pumps is seized or plumping against a closed valve or controller this could be part of the overall problem.

This our 44mm2 tiny home, built at a cost of £30k

Had a helpful conversation with our Building Control guy, he’s happy with 50mm of concrete cover over the pipe encased in rock.

Do you mean access via an inspection chamber or access via the stack?