Triassic

Rain falls straight down unless wind driven hence the plan area being used rather than the slope area.

It sounds like the local BC is box-ticking, Id suggests you follow the link and do a percolation test as a starter for ten. Then I'd design an onsite soakaway. https://www.eden.gov.uk/planning-and-building/building-control/building-control-guidance-notes/rainwater-soakaway-design-guidance/

I assume you're on a rural site and not on a new estate with separate foul and surface water sewers? Regarding the soakaway, have you done a percolation test on your site? http://www.pavingexpert.com/drain08.html I'd keep the water usage figures fairly general If you look at your water supply company website they should give usage figures for each of the items as having in your wet system. There is a calculator http://sites.wrcplc.co.uk/partgcalculator/Calculator.aspx

@dogman kindly produced this diagram of his UFH heating system. I was wondering how much of this kit can be eliminated, thus saving money, by using a Sunamp to do both DHW and UFH?

Found it thanks.

Ahh you might be right, Ill do a search.

I've read various rather complex posts on heating and hot water systems, I tend to be better able to understand a system when I have a diagram. Does anyone have a heating and DHW stem diagram that includes the use of a Sunamp?

Out local DNO pushed and pulled our supply cable through the 30 m duct no problem. One pushed the cable into the duct and the other applied tension on the drawstring.

Do you have a link to this type of actuator?

@le-cerveau is was thinking two manifold might be better, as you suggest it might help with balancing the flows to upstairs and downstairs. I was thinking about running it all at one temperature. In my last house, each zone had a thermostat and an actuator. Would these be required in a PH style set up? If not, what sort of controls would be necessary? Assuming 4Kw for hot water and the 5 Kw for UF heating, I have a total load of around 10Kw, so do I need a 9 Kw ASHP?

I've now used Loopcad to produce drawings etc for the UFH layout. It suggests 4 zones on the ground floor and 5 zones on the first floor. Regarding manifolds, would it be best to have two manifolds, one for the GF and one for the 1st floor? or just one 9 zone manifold? How many is a few Kw for hot water?

So, where to start!

Having downloaded Jeremy's Heat Loss Spreadsheet and populated it using figures supplied by the Architect, it tells me I have a Total Heat Loss of 5766 watts. (The higher than expected result apears to be driven by the number of windows we have). The question is - What Next? I assume I'll need to have some heat input to balance the Total Heat Loss of 5766 watts? I had in mind to install underfloor heating in the groundfloor slab and heat spreader plates and pipework in the kitchen / family room. (the house is basically an upside-down house, with two bedrooms and a lounge downstair and a Kitchen/family room and dining room above.

I'm reviewing my heat loss calculations prior to starting to try and get my head around the DHW and heating requirements for my new build. Can someone point me in the direction of mean daily and mean minimum outdoor air temperature readings by month? Ideally for South Cumbria. Thanks.

Our pipes are tied to the mesh, so I’ll pressurise them to mains pressure to help keep them in shape and highlight any leaks.

I spotted this article and thought it would be of interest to those contemplating smart homes. For two months in early 2018, technology journalist Kashmir Hill let innocent household items spy on her. She had turned her one-bedroom apartment into a "smart home" and was measuring how much data was being collected by the firms that made the devices. Her smart toothbrush betrayed when she had not brushed her teeth, her television revealed when she had spent the day bingeing on programmes, and her smart speaker spoke to the world's largest online retailer every day. It was like living in a "commercial, surveillance state" with "not a single hour of digital silence", she said. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-43747421

I've just laid out my underfloor heating pipes prior to pouring the concrete in my insulated raft foundation slab. Ideally, I'd like to pressurise the pipes before the concrete is poured, so that any damage/leaks would be apparent. I thought easy! Just buy a manifold online, job done! Wrong! There are so many options and the more I think about it the more confused I get. I'm building a well-insulated house which faces South, so My thoughts were that I'd fit UFH into the ground floor slab to allow heating of the living space. The bedrooms would be unheated as they are on the upper floors and hopefully should be cooler. I've not even started to think about the design of DHW and heating system! I'm after a Six zone manifold, but depending on my final heating/cooling system design I might want to expend it to eight zones. I want to do both heating and cooling, Do I need a special manifold? Do I want thermostatically controlled mixing or a simple manual mixing.valve? Pumped or not? Thoughts?

An ex-neighbour used to walk the mile and a half to the local recycling centre with his green waste bin rather than pay to have it emptied by the council.

I took our fig tree branches to the local council recycling centre and put them in the green waste bin.

Could you expand on this as I need to buy my manifold. My floor is concrete and the heat source is a thermal store and ASHP.

Woops, I meant to say unlikely to leak !!

I am going in the opposite direction, cheap ebay Pex pipe £45 per 100m, after all it’s buried in concrete and is protected, so is very likely to leak.

Ok I have to ask, why is UFH pipe 16mm and ordinary water pipe 15mm. To have two sizes so close looks like nothing than a sceptical marketing ploy, not very sustainable, given you then need two sets of fittings! I for one will be buying the 15mm and use any leftovers for general plumping jobs?

Mine was a s sectional garage door, it came as five sections and was a double garage width, they cut the sections to the dimensions of the opening. I paid around £1200 for it five years ago.

@Jude1234They are Hormann garage doors, I got mine from https://central-garage-doors.co.uk/ and fitted them myself.