joe90

Try one of these, just stews to fit. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266349296396?hash= made for windows but no reason they will not work for a cupboard door and if you need to open it further you have the option 🤷‍♂️

I think check reveals look better purely aesthetically!

I know little about ICF but I did check reveals in my brick build to put the windows in the cavity insulation zone, the windows are best within the insulation zone. However you have two insulation zones, a tinternet search mostly showed windows flush with the outside insulation.

Well I think it’s a good idea we have entrepreneurs that discover stuff, from my (non technical mind) it reads more about storage and even inter seasonal storage. Yes PV may be getting better and cheaper but that does not store energy.

Great, this is your evidence use it and don’t back down, despite my planners arguing about my development I presented similar evidence (facts) and they backed down on similar grounds.

I made the mistake of buying an old manual (no hydraulic) tipping dumper, trouble was anything slightly wet stuck in the tub and I had to dig it out 🤯.

Makes sense to me. You can’t live in a house till it’s finished 🤷‍♂️

👍

Starts when cold, does not smoke (too much) tyres reasonable (expensive) and no excess hydraulic leaks. Worn joints are expected and you can get used to them, paint optional 🤣

Very interesting, especially after watching blue planet 3 last night !

Cheap as chips and versatile https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404480199430?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=EAIaIQobChMIv73AkYGMggMVDNntCh06BwMqEAQYCSABEgJViPD_BwE

With my previous workshop I was going to cut a slot with angle grinder where the door seal sat and drop a galvanised plate into it protruding 5-10mm which would cure the problem.

+1 to the above, I had put a temp staircase in made from scaff planks and only put the oak/wrought iron one after plastering.

I agree, see previous picture 🤷‍♂️

Definitely, my last workshop build, despite rubber seal on the bottom of the roller shutter door leaked water in heavy rain even with a half meter roof overhang. My latest has a slope from the door line outwards and despite no door fitted yet rain rolls away from the entrance.

Good idea, clear mind in the morning 👍

Firstly check the cabinet is square (especially if you have removed the back panel) the fixing screws fir the hinges allows up and down movement (oval holes) which might make up that 2mm, other than that a photo or diagram might help us.

Thinking outside the box…….https://www.moondreamwebstore.co.uk/sound-insulation-curtain-86?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImOKru46KggMVgevtCh39hwN4EAAYAiAAEgJo9PD_BwE

Well it was a gamble but it paid off for me, yes it leaked hydraulic oil and all joints were worn but I got used to it. I think I paid about £6k plus VAT (about 8 years ago) and sold it for £4k after about 4 years work 🤷‍♂️ local engineers supplied parts and mended it when a few things (diesel pump) got clogged. , it’s certainly a man’s toy (tin hat on). Did I mention it turned up the ground? And ours was very wet at times….. (I did get it out)

I bought a 3cx fir my build, cheap and luckily didn’t go wrong (much), yes it’s heavy and chews the ground up and we had the room. In addition to that it was the greatest fun to drive and always on site so available at short notice for multiple jobs from unloading pallets with the forks, digging trenches as a crane and I had a fair bit of ground to level. Not sure if it was cost effective re hiring but I loved owning it 😎.

It’s the rest that’s on the piss 🤣🤣🤣

Well done @AliG, you’re a star, this will make a massive difference to his life, bereavement is awful, I know, and seeing your way forward is not easy. 👍

Looks good, 👍

Certainly (I fitted kitchens fir quite a few years and have come across these problems fir customers. )the advantage of the W/M. Going in the cupboard (on the supported base) is the units will look better as doors and kickboard are consistent with surrounding kitchen cupboards (it won’t be obvious the machines are in there ). Washing machines are heavy (lump of concrete to steady rocking movement) and so I would use 6 x 2 or similar timber in a square under the base directly under the legs of the W/M . Driers are much lighter, however I would connect the sides of the cupboard in several places back to the wall to steady the whole thing especially if you are removing the back panel which is also there to keep the whole cupboard square . Ah, you mention this is the end of a run, is that against a wall? This would be good if it is as it will give much more support 👍

I would never sit a washing machine on a cupboard base supported by plastic legs, IMO it will shake itself to bits quite quickly, sat on the floor will be far better so no kick plate, unless, you build a very solid structure to support the base of the unit directly to the floor taking the strain off the plastic legs. Perhaps i am OCD but i would not sit the dryer on the W/M but build a solid shelf (I used a length of worktop in mine) so the W/M can be slid out separately and give more air around the units.