joe90

I think not, you can over engineer but why, I think you are over thinking it.

I use grab adhesive in the joint, holds it together and acts like a filler.

https://homeinspectionsinohio.com/what-is-sistering/ This what I know it as. Regarding your stress concentration area I don’t think it will be a problem, you are looking at deflection (bounce) over a length not shear. (But @Gus Potter will put me right ( when he turns up 🤷‍♂️).

I tend to cut over length, work out how far out the angle is then trim slightly to correct it.. chop saw essential.

No splinters!!!

Your not the first, years of practice and you will get better 🤣.

Not sure what “scabbing” is, do you mean simply adding timber to stiffen the stringers? (Waiting for Gus to answer).

They might move quicker if they are implicated in the papers!

Consider getting the papers involved if it drags on, very bad advertising for the developer and private BC and may make them get off their asses if they don’t get on with it.

What about chopping boards? Surely will blunt knives more than a holder 🤷‍♂️

In wood?

I did notice when visiting friends just south of Bristol recently new pylons going up across the fields, grid connections I guess.

That’s very interesting but what extra demand is going to be made when we all have heat pumps and EV,s? I have not seen anything about covering that extra demand. I still say insulation of housing stock is a missed opportunity, helps the poor and lowers demand.

The advantage of speed controlled hand drills nowadays, start very slowly and it won’t skid.

So did i on my build but got a local plumber to sign off the UVC. BC never asked for this and no mention of the plumbing 🤷‍♂️

Sorry to hear this @Adsibob and the fact it’s causing you sleepless nights, however it’s fixable, keep that in mind. My drawings (I did them) showed no weep vents but both I and my builder new they were required along with trays. See what your builder says and if he gets arsy let him go, if the trays are in (and by scraping mortar from joints you should find them) then putting weeps in Is dead easy, even if there are no trays it can be done, just might cost a bit but what cost peace of mind eh?

This thread is titled “Cheapo double socket faceplates therefore if your planning to replace them and you say you” want to upgrade later” then why not buy the cheapest 🤷‍♂️.

I would change them all at that age whilst doing this amount of work.🤷‍♂️

That sounds like a good idea, draining down will also give you a chance to flush the system, new inhibitor and peace of mind with new TRV,s. Re balance the system, consider it like getting your car serviced.

No because it’s underground 🤷‍♂️🤣

Not wishing to off topic @Carrerahill but is 0.7lmin enough for domestic water use for such a build?

+1.

Welcome and good luck, yes this site is full of practical good intentioned advice from those that are, or have done it. I also wish I was 27 again but I am ancient and retired. With my build I had a single contractor pour the founds, build the shell, roof and plaster, I did the rest (retired self employed builder) and was happy to let the trades do the work I was not confident to do (bricklayer, plaster). Planning is a must (but I never use a spreadsheet 🤣). I also changed my mind several times on the construction method pre build and ended up brick and block. The mantra “insulate, insulate, insulate” is a good one, money spent on insulation just keeps giving, fuel, whatever it is will always go up in price, second to this is airtightness, which is achieved by close scrutiny on details (which you can do). Bring on the questions 👍

Yes, travelling, tool purchase, van costs etc etc being self employed has other costs. Plus to fit gutter trays require lifting/removing tiles/slates then re insisting them as well 🤷‍♂️

No I don’t see why, just needs placing where 90’ is achievable.