joe90

+1

Some of us do!!!,!

I came past @Pocster place today, didn’t see much activity 🤔

+1, just pack it with insulation 👍

Wherever but outside is better as you don’t want rodding eyes in the house .

Our BC officer decided on trench width and depth fir us as he was local and knew the ground (so cost nothing 👍)

Yes, IMO external stack pipes are a no no for a modern build (if possible), they look rubbish and create cold bridges. The only thing you have to bear in mind is soundproofing any boxing in as you don’t want to hear it when having your dinner 🤷‍♂️. Pipes In or under slabs are ok as long as rodding access is provided.

Ooh, that would bug me!!!!

+1, get all that sh1t removed and see what you have got (and post pics here).

Speaking as someone who hates painting that looks good, might fade in sunshine and depends on the paint used. Can you find out from the supplier?

Yes I have used them in the past and they were good, no so with the current stuff. I will work it out tho..

I wish mine was that good, the wiring diagram (chinesium) makes no sense, I am yet to wire the sensors and will have to work out what to do. Also mine has no mention of a manual switch to open close the gates which I want in case the remote fails or family/friends visit when I am not here, (front door bell push behind the gate post is what I did on a previous house) I can mechanically disengage the motor with a key tho.

Why not batten and board it, so much less work and mess (and you have better sound proofing between floors).

It’s dark, will do it in the morning 👍

True, I think it’s just simpler to find a Reed that will cope with the current to start the led driver, if not this is what I will do, I have ordered that one on EBay, only a fiver, worth the punt.

The current limit switch is a Reed so I want to use the same proximity magnet with an additional Reed.

But I want the lights on when the gate is open, not when it’s moving (the lights are for seeing both gate pillars in the dark)

That makes sense and yes the Reed is permanently closed now. Because the magnet/Reed devise is already there an additional Reed is the simplest solution, I have found this one and it says “This unit has a maximum switching current of 5A to handle light to medium-duty loads.”. on EBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293178384140 🤷‍♂️

Farnell, great, found this https://uk.farnell.com/comus-assemtech/psc150-30/reed-proximity-switch/dp/732000 but it says…. C/change over contact form/style 150VAC Maximum switching voltage 1A Maximum switching current 20VA Maximum switching capacity (resistive) 8mm Minimum switching distance 100mR Maximum Contact resistance ??? What’s the 20VAswitching capacity (resistive)

Using a Reed switch is perfect because the gate stop is already actuated by a magnet/Reed so another Reed using the same magnet is simple.

Feck, what am I doing wrong, Reed switch above arrived, rated at max ac voltage 400v, max current 1 amp so I thought it would cope, no, switched on with magnet but won’t let go, also then found it only switches 10va 🤷‍♂️the led driver is below, so draws less than 1 amp. I was buying these from RS. I cannot find another Reed switch that quotes the va switching just the max voltage and current like the one I bought 🤷‍♂️

With the thickness of the walls and roof I think it was an air raid shelter.

Why? Frankly unless children were at danger next door it’s only their business unless it was likely to fall on your fence or property 🤷‍♂️

Yeh, I borrowed a Harley but ended up buying a Virago (lots of people thought it was a Harley 😎)

I like glulams but steel might be more “industrial” to go with the bike 🤷‍♂️ Wimin eh! You need a man shed (just waiting to bring my kit car here) 👍