joe90

Perhaps when you holiday in France you visit pretty rural locations like we have here, Peak District, Lake District etc but at home we work in (for example) London, Birmingham or Manchester 🤷‍♂️

However if the LPA will not let you build what you want then an appeal is the only way forward. Yes could be 22 weeks or whatever but surely worth starting it ASAP. Clock ticking……

And jobs 🤣

So how is this supposed to work using induction?, on the very brief video it appeared to have a large coil which reminded me of a news story many years ago about someone who made a huge coil in his loft and was using radio/tv waves to generate power of some sort and was fined heavily for unlicensed equipment. (Plus £13 on Amazon is far cheaper than £40 on line 🤷‍♂️).

That’s my question and open to idea,s of what it’s about.

I came across this u tube and wonder what is the basis for this “invention”, I am tempted for a laugh to buy it (there is a 60 day money back guarantee, any ideas what the theory is? https://go.todaysgreenlivingtips.com/energizer-1?utm_source=google&utm_medium=display&utm_id=20565574537&utm_content=157316213007&utm_term=&creativeId=674289035902&gclid=Cj0KCQjwj5mpBhDJARIsAOVjBdqh6D6655ysni1HBuZtren639gZEvLPdQV6YfrgLD7aFM0AkMwNFKYaAu2BEALw_wcB

When you say zone do you mean an area controlled separately?, with mine I had different loops in different rooms but not separately controlled by TRV,s, however I upped the flow rate to the lounge which I wanted slightly warmer than other areas. With that setup you could always add TRV.s at a later date if required.

By the time the slates are lapped it will be nearer 0 degrees, so no. The GRP slate effect is great, really looks the part. Mind you, if it is virtually flat it won’t be seen and even a flat slate effect would look wrong to me. Just go standard GRP.

I agree, sand and cement is very solid and especially on any timber, which will move a little. It’s a bit why I don’t like mortared ridge tiles .

Oh that’s me too!!!, however I find it’s what it looks like to the eye, a wonky wall against a straight one will be noticeable, 20mm is not too bad over the length but it depends on how OCD you are, if like me you will “see it” every time you go past then feather it out for a peaceful future life.

If most of the post is solid why not cut off the rotten section and either replace it with a metal post (examples of what’s available https://tradefixdirect.com/c/fencing-landscaping/post-bases-supports/ ) or cast a concrete foot under it.

I am not a big fan of health and safety but not protecting that drop is mad (you obviously don’t have any children visit your house) 🤷‍♂️

No it’s tapered the wrong way, it should be tapered inside not outside

No nut? (Ply behind plasterboard) and is it a flat end or tapered you connect the pipe too 🤷‍♂️

Good on you for bigger cavity and insulation. I did rough calks on the use of stainless ties over basalt and the benefit was very small for much bigger cost so used stainless. Frankly using metal lintels spanning both walls was a far bigger heat sink than stainless ties.

Makes sense but why does the hep connector have a tapered o ring? Common Nick, where are you when we need you?

Probably not, just smacks of “bodge” to me

Just a waste of time, if the thread leaks the rubber washer has failed.

That’s tapered as far as I can see so the spare washer is not required. The tapered rubber washer on the connector fits in the tapered end on the tap. Lock tite or PTFE is not required as the thread is not relied on to give a seal like an olive. I see so many people put ptfe tape on threads when not required 🤷‍♂️

Look at the tap end you are connecting too

“The reason for the two washers is to cover all types of tap tails, some have a square end (flat washer) others have a tapered internal bore (tapered washer).”

Soo much better and nails in every hole (which it should be) it’s a good job us build hubbers keep an eye on what the trades (who should know better) are doing.

I found my case different, I tried to negotiate with the planner, I got her to concede on two out of four refusal points (because I proved their evidence was not true) but she would not budge on the last two but told me if I went to appeal I would probably win 🤷‍♂️. I found the appeal procedure less painful than applying for planning and a more practical approach.

Yes the wall ties do their job and cavity closures all round.

We’re any freestanding? It would worry me, having fitted many kitchens, i find the plastic adjustable feet fine in compression but unsure about their stability without a wall 🤷‍♂️