joe90

Not so, the stack could be joined into the underground pipe outside the thermal envelope then AAVs inside. This is what I did but our vent is on the detached garage.

I had a lot of airlock probs with my setup which looked like other problems.

Very interesting thread, I always “thought” that E7 or E10 would be better for us but no data yet (my laptop has fallen over even though steamy tea gave me a few months data from his magic kit). As ours is a heavy house I think the UFH and DHW from the ASHP could easily be timed for cheap rate . @Ed Davies did you manage to make any sense of Steamy,s data?

I have a stack but it’s not on the house but on the rear of the garage past the house ( garage has a toilet). I thought it a good idea just to get more air into the external pipework .

I saw a tv programme a few years ago about a small housing estate going up in America. All roads and services laid then a small modular “factory” built and all “stick frame” houses constructed indoors and dragged onto the plots and connected up. The “factory” was dismantled and taken away. I was impressed.

We have no smells at all from our Vortex unit (air blower system)and glad we opted for it. The pump is a little louder than I imagined (very quiet location) but I will be burying it in the ground next summer.

I also hate external pipes, mine is a new build and we have internal pipework to external gulley trap then sewer manhole as you suggest, more work than external but very possible and make sure you tell your builder what YOU want.

We had to have a lintel over an upstairs doorway in our new build but the B.I. insisted the concrete lintel installed by my builder was replaced by an RSJ. Reason being you are not allowed a point load on a concrete lintel. B.I. Said 100 x 100mm RSJ was sufficient. So question is, is this being covered by building regs?

I bought a jcb as I thought multi purpose would be better, however we are on a wet site and unless the weather is very dry it just gets bogged down and makes the place look like the Somme. It has however been very handy and I just love driving it. I have done soo much work with it and worth every penny, I am however considering trading it fir a tracked machine to finish the site off (drive etc). Note, I had to pay a contractor to instal my sewerage plant as it was too wet to get my JCB near it?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-POST-LIFT-CAR-VEHICLE-RAMP-HOIST-4-TON-NEW-999-18-month-warranty/321740808920 i am getting too old to crawl under cars nowadays. ?

That would be good but we are at opposite ends of the country!! , how much?

I am sure getting fit before working on a self build is a very good idea, personally after three years on my build I am now just old and knackered (and looking to sub out the heavy work left ?).

Yes but as Jeremy says, new, they are pricey so not sure it’s worth it.

I have lots of woodworking machinery in my workshop and it’s all single phase, however I am considering a two post lift for my car restoration and all the second hand ones on Ebay are 3 phase ?.

+1 ?

I have a 25mm pipe with inserts at various places and get 6bar and oodles of flow.

I hope you didn’t pay your original SE anything, what a pillock . “I can’t work with you BECAUSE YOUR RIGHT!”. Glad you found a decent SE.

Yes, non insulated roofing with a membrane under the buttons, any condensation (if any) will run down the membrane and into the gutter. The workshop is draughty and Not heated.

We had a lot of water ingress after the plastering was done, a large patch of damp under a window and I thought snot on wall tie = remove external brickwork but it turned out to be a pinhole in window silicone (we do have very wet South westerly winds). Just goes to show how much water can get in a very small hole?

I used steel box section for my garage roof, I asked about the coated stuff (on the inside) that is supposed to stop condensation but was told unless there is a lot of airflow , like a barn, it does not work well, I was told (by the suppler) that using a roofing felt under the steel was a better solution so that is what I have done and it has worked very well. I think steel is a much better product than bitumen sheets IMO.

+1 to the above note on a single sheet, mine is and not very steep, no leaks in 2 years.

Phew, I am relieved for you, but, they may still be there!!!, our bats were found by them listening to the tin roof (galvanised corrugated roof) and sounds were heard that indicated bats were between the tin roof and sarking boards which we could not see onto without removing the tin roof. I really hope you have none.

Oh, I thought RAL was a definitive colour number, just found this https://www.ralcolorchart.com/about-ral-colors

We had a problem with our “colour”, wife and I wanted “National trust olive green” but there is not just one of these but several slightly different ones, so, out came the iPad and chose RAL1000, yep, that’s it. Ordered the handmade wooden windows sprayed in RAL 1000 and when they arrived they were yellow!!!!. Turns out you should not choose colours from a computer screen (we know now) wife said “can we paint them”, not after I paid so much to get them sprayed (I hate painting). The upshot is we have grown to like the colour and everyone says it goes well with the red brick of the house. We had all the eves, porch and even the kitchen painted to match and thank god it has worked well. It’s an unusual colour but sits well with what we have.

As @PeterW says above.