joe90

It takes a lot to recognise you are tired and might make mistakes, I used to try and do stuff that took brain power earlier in the day and mundane graft later.

I do mine, simples!, just make sure it’s clean envoironment.

Here is a photo of my manifold, the internal valve or sprung one way plastic valve is in the bottom pipe just to the right of the temp gauge at its threaded joint with the rest of the manifold. To access it the piece needs removing and accessing from either end. It is a push fit with “o” ring into the end of the pipe. Makes me wonder if it was ever fitted correctly. There were small plastic lugs that held it in place so maybe it was not pushed fully home during manufacture?

But will these positive placement guns fire the correct twist nails for joist hangers?

Yup, all working as it did before, just goes to show even new kit can go faulty. I recon the valve was never inserted properly in the first place. ?

Right, think I found the problem. In the return part of the manifold is a sprung plastic valve that I believe gives preference to heated water entering the manifold but if the TRV head says “no more” it allows the return water (cool) to be circulated instead, this valve had come loose and so was allowing only coolwater to be the circulated rather than incoming warm water. ASHP back on (with immersion to help heat the buffer quickly) and will report if it works or not.

Yes Dave, flow meters showing flow through all loops, the room stat controls the UFH manifold and that is asking for heat, the supply pipe is warm but it appears not to be flowing into the mixer. Have been told that maybe the mixer valve is blocked so going to drain it and look into that being the problem. in essence I don’t know how the mixer assembly on the manifold works but it appears to be pumping the same water around the loops and not accepting any new warm water.

Our heating is not working well, on looking at the manifold (wunda) it has the same temp going in as coming out! The pump is running and I even took the blending valve out so the valve was not causing the problem. Before this we used to get 24’ going in and 20-21 coming out. The pipe feeding the manifold is warm as it was before. I have checked for an airlock. What else can I look for? NOTE above I said blending valve, I meant the TRV head.

I stand corrected ?, but I would not install a septic tank in a new build.

I believe (but willing to be proved wrong) that if you have the option to use a mains sewer you have to connect to it. As per @Ed Davies above, no new septic tanks are allowed. If you are lucky enough to have a watercourse or ditch (can be dry fir a few months of the year) you can discharge to that. If not you need a soakaway but it will not block up like a leach field to a septic tank as there is no biological action taking place in the soil.

1/ yes 2/ yes or bits digested 3/ most things are digested but some emptying will be needed say worst annually, hopefully every other year. 4/it overflows as it fills (input = output) see 3 above I have had to educate SWMBO about putting bleach down the loo, very small amounts are ok but too much will kill the bacteria that digests your poo. ?

A good place to start (i have one of these). https://www.wte-ltd.co.uk/vortex_sewage_treatment_plant.html

@ProDave If I was any good at computer graphics I would insert a trampoline under that “suicide door “ ?

Sorry, misread that. Don’t blame you as I am now going to bury mine to 1/ hide it. 2/ make it quieter. With regards costs because of very wet ground conditions and my JCB weighing soooo much I had to get a contractor with a tracked digger in to bury it and back fill with concrete. At least I was able to use my JCB to load concrete into my dumper and get it round the site to him, I paid about £1100 for contractor and concrete ( a lot of concrete as had to back fill right up to ground level because of the very high water table. As an additional note, the contractor was worried about digging the hole as on a previous job near me when he got to the last ft or so of the hole he broke into a water table and the hole filled with water very quickly, took two diesel pumps to keep the water out of the hole and much more concrete as the sides fell in. I think I was lucky.

Your lucky “someone” is mowing the grass!

I can vote for the vortex, easy to instal and very clean output. Don’t quite get what @Stones said above, our blower is not remote, sits on top or right next to the unit. I and others in quiet locations have found the air pump louder than we thought, I will be burying mine next summer into the ground to make it quieter and less obtrusive.

I wish we had running water on site, makes a good feature (as long as it’s not under the house ?).

Opposite end of the scale but I bought one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eterna-Quartz-Infared-Heater-With-2-Heat-Settings-600W-1200W-Wall-Mounted/162627445179?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I have mounted it above my bench pointing at me, works well but I know heating the whole workshop would be expensive as it has no insulation (fine weather projects only ?).

Yes, I used green energy with no standing charge as we were in a similar position, Ha, just checked and they no longer do it, sorry.

The floor is very strong and next to a wall so I don’t think the tray will flex, I think someone has banged it or leaned heavily on it ?. I imagine a cleaning agent and re-CT1 is the answer, fan heater on it at the moment making sure it’s extra dry before I re seal it.

Our en suite has been in and working for 8 months with no problem but suddenly the glass screen has “come awayl from the shower tray and leaks. Can’t remember but think I used CT1 (clear). I will dry it well and clean away any sealer left but what is the best way to re seal this join? It is a frameless glass screen onto a composite shower tray.

? Yes, I always mark the floor with any stud work to indicate where the studs are.

I did contact channel 4 suggesting a “Green designs” programme a few years ago as it is a popular subject among us self builders. My build would have been no good for TV as it was on budget, Windows arrived on time, and there was no Agro with the architect!

Dave, as you know I have one of these in case I need it. Do you have any logging to prove if it’s needed and how much?

Oops, sorry. Yes an external stack connected through the wall underground can reduce the thermal bridge.