joe90

@zoothorn whilst I feel fir you, when I did my homework about heating I found split units were known to be more noisy than monoblocs which is why I installed the latter. The fact that no dB info was available is also a warning sign. I hope the installers/manufacturers manage to sort this fir you.

Glad to see they put a water stop above the slope that goes under the tiles. As far as I know thermal movement is not a problem with GRP it’s very forgiving and can flex. If I had to have a flat roof I still would do it in GRP despite other materials being available.

So glad you got this sorted out, it must be such a weight off your mind, well done. Regarding @epsilonGreedy comment on flashing the GRP would be run up the slope under the tiles an amount so roofing felt and tiles rest on it. No need for further flashing IMO. i used to live fairly close to tern hill where these guys come from. Nice part of the world.

Someone call me????.. yes i am very happy with my 200mm cavity full filled. With regard (pppsssstttt thermal mass ?) I hear the argument that just the plasterboard within the house is enough and can not argue as I don’t know (Or understand) all the facts. I do understand @epsilonGreedy reason for extra PIR and plasterboard fir a more responsive house but I hate hollow sounding walls and not being able to hang heavy stuff wherever I want in the house (apart from the couples of stud walls I have upstairs). So it’s horses for courses. I am retired and mostly at home so the house stays above 20’ and so far this year the heating is yet to come on. Everyone comments how warm the house is even with no heating. If I were to go away for two weeks in the middle of winter with the heating off I am sure it would take a fair while to heat up (but I have a wood stove which can chuck the heat out if required). ?

Perfect time to EWI (external wall insulation) if it’s within your budget.

I agree, even some insulation is better than none on your solid walls, foam on plasterboard internally or external wall insulation. Nows the time to get it done well. Most here double or triple building regs insulation wise. The old adage here is you only buy insulation once, fuel for heating you pay for continuously and it goes up in price regularly.

to what level? Also if the rest is not insulated it won’t make a lot of difference!!!. You really need to work out your heat load. I have a two story new build and no heating upstairs and rely on heat rising from UFH downstairs.

I really like that, I too love glulams.

Ha, when I lived in Bristol I wanted to build a porch bigger then 3sqm and remove the original front door, when I applied I was told planning and building regs were not required, PD allowed this and I had to remind them of their rules etc twice before they got it!!,!. Duh.

My builder used Spanish slate supplied by our local builders merchant, good quality and looks very good.

Ah, misunderstood, yes as @PeterW says, standard stuff fir “normal” builders (as apposed to us “self builders”).

Flexible mastic might be your friend here to help with air tightness. The timber will shrink a little so any gap filler must be able to flex with it. Are you going to parge the walls?, wet plaster? You need to get parging done on the blockwork between joists before the ceiling goes up . I did mine before the upper floor went down as well,.

The only place I know that used to do bespoke castings was ironbridge gorge museum, fascinating to watch but up near Telford.

I think it’s down to finding a decent local builder/roofer, get on the phone/internet/Facebook.

Depends how strong the mix is, looks quite sandy to me so they might come up with a little care, do you have any spares?

Gosh that is shit, it’s a wonder he is still trading, the tiles are not even cut straight. I could do better with a blindfold and one hand tied behind my back (even my right hand )?

Not the same builder /roofer ?

Click on the name ( eg. @joe90) Then on their page there is a “message” tag, allows you to private message them. On the subject of recommendations I don’t think it’s against T@C,s and I think it’s a good idea to recommend people that have a proven track record (admin will correct that if wrong) I have recommended our builder down here in Devon as he was brilliant.

My builder used liquid screed as he said it worked out cheaper and quicker than labour for a trad screed.

After many years of refurbs I found a new build refreshing, perhaps I was lucky (had a brilliant main contractor for the heavy work) and very little went wrong but I think that was mainly down to meticulous planning on my part. I also had an attitude of “shit happens, so get over it”, which I imparted on my builder and he was grateful that I was realistic (unlike some customers). Funnily enough I have suffered ill health from stress related conditions in the past and people close to me were worried the build would make it worse, but the opposite was true, I got great satisfaction from what I achieved and to this day I am still proud of what I have done. p.S. Edit to add this forum gave me great support for the things I was not sure of, ASHP, MVHR, ETC. thanks guys ?

I was told this by a mate who used to work for BG. (I like my ASHP ?).

As said above, only any good if your leaves are dry!!!

I have fitted many Bowden’s kitchens and find them good. I fitted one wicks kitchen and had quite a few problems getting the right bits, waiting weeks fir some bits. Recently fitted a Bowden’s kitchen fir a friend (I am supposed to be retired!!!) and some of their upgrades are very good. Howdens every time for me (after a lot of haggling on price ?‍♂️).

From your link above..... Fixing with a slate hook involves trimming the head of the slate, thereby losing some head lap (a building inspector may not accept this) my roof was slated using these.... https://www.slate.uk.com/product/stainless-steel-slate-hooks/?attribute_pa_hook-sizes=90mm-grade-316&gclid=CjwKCAjw_Y_8BRBiEiwA5MCBJn5a8uwBwJPODzp7s2U61FDnAAMIC7zeEONcRE3SSkW3eE3WT1H96RoCPOIQAvD_BwE and no trimming was required. My builder said he always used hooks nowadays as slates could be replaced which cannot be done if nails are used. Yes copper or lead strips look a bodge IMO.

All explained here.....https://www.wonkeedonkeerichardburbidge.co.uk/building-regulations-explained/