joe90

+1 for stairbox, good website to design your own stairs. It allowed me to build my own half landing and order two short stairs to link up, they also let me order spare oak fir the landing to match the stairs.

Cardboard cut out???

We have similar with our large conservatory, not as many as you tho. With the conservatory they can see out the other end, keeping our terrier out there tends to keep them away a bit.

As others have said planning is the first hurdle and your budget a controlling factor. Frankly it looks commercial so even if converted may not look in keeping with surroundings. Are you looking to live there or sell on?. Get planners to site (if you can) to discuss their preferred option as this will be easier to get passed.

Depends if you will use it afterwards!!! Hiring is good as you can thrash it and not worry.

My JCB has no seat belt, don’t think they come with them, mind it’s so damn heavy (8.8tons) and a wide wheel base it’s difficult (not impossible) to knock it over, I have got it up on two wheels tho with the boom extended and a bucket full of clay but the bucket hitting the ground stops it going over ?.

We also had a “victor Meldrew” neighbour who complained about and objected to everything. Council planner was against everything we wanted. After 4 planning applications refused I took it to appeal and won hands down, the council were even told they were not abiding by their own policies . So don’t be bullied by neighbours or planners, deal with fact and do your homework. Best of luck and keep us informed ?

I have installed these fir people in the past, any water getting past the flipper panel caught in the extended tray area which can double as a drying (dripping) area. Just need a towel radiator at the end so you can reach a warm towel from the shower!!!

I considered a stove in my (completely uninsulated) workshop but I don’t spend so much time out there so bought thermal undies instead and put a fan heater above the bench in case a stand still there fir any length of time during cold weather.

Hi and welcome, apart from being a bit of a Luddite I like proven technology and the sunamp was a step too far fir me and as said above some have had problems. I have an ASHP (4 kW) which does UFH and DHW. My DHW like some others here is only 47’ which is hot enough fir any usage but you will need a larger DHW tank as you will not be blending is so much. The advantage of a cooler DHW temp is the tank losses are sooo much smaller (main reason fir Sunnamp was very low “tank losses”). Plus the fact there not actual losses fir half the year as long as the tank is within the thermal envelope of your house!. You will need to work out your heating load and DHW usage. If you specify ASHP coil in your tank and also enough immersions you can connect your PV and have backup to the ASHP. p.s. I am a Bristolian but retired to sunny (damp) Devon ?.

Yes, works quite well and got them in both bathrooms, initially I wanted a door but really glad I didn’t now.

Mine is 1200 x 800 with a flipper panel (hinged) very little water escapes as the flipper panel stops water Tracking out the end.

A bit late but word of mouth and speak to customers re builders, my wife knew our builders grandmother and the whole family had a good local reputation and he is booked well into next year!!, any builder that does not have a queue of customers ain’t that good (IMO). Plus you have a good crowd here that have been there and got the t shirt, we may not agree on everything but you will get a very rounded opinion. I think it takes a long time to plan what you want, rushing any decision is a bad thing,

no, during the heating season (when I decide) the ASHP heats the buffer (indirect)to 30’ and when the room stat in the hallway calls for heat the pump on the UFH manifold starts up and blends down to 23’. Any heat lost from the buffer remains in the house just like the heat lost from the DHW tank (48’) but at these low temps the heat loss is minimal. As I have said elsewhere I would probably not have a buffer if I were to do it again, but it works just fine. So my Dads old motto springs to mind “ If it ain’t broke don’t mend it!”.?

Mines not come on yet this year even tho the other half thinks it should!!!!, House is a constant 20-21’. As said above it’s a different mindset. I keep temp monitors in most rooms to prove it is warm enough (and I only wear a t shirt). I do have a buffer tank which is constantly topped up through winter so I have 80ltr of hot water ready to heat the slab when it’s called for.

I agree with @Nickfromwales above, I PM,d my build (plus a lot of the smaller work) but I had a fixed price from a local very good builder who did the shell etc but through Ebay etc sourced much of the stuff required to fit it out, and it came in on budget.

I,m still waiting for him to finish his bathroom so I can help with the hoist/lift, don’t think I will live long enough ??

this is what we did as I hate bouncy floors and it worked well.

well we are passed by tractors being driven by people all day, they need to live somewhere (local!).

What about farmers/farm hands etc that work in the countryside (and have no wish to live in a city).

Yes, door frame etc first.

My wife complained this evening about it being cold (I am sat in a t shirt), heating is set to 20’ and not come on yet (I think it may be altered soon ?). edit to add,,,, she has just asked me to light the woodburner ?‍♂️

That’s really good mate, well done, you must be pleased?. Now, skirting, below is my take on what you need, you will need to plan it carefully but this will look great. Below is a (bad) sketch of what I would do, might be good to try it out with hardboard or something first to get the angles correct but after doing the steps I know you can do it.

I did one recently and cast a ring beam with wire in it and bolted to that, worked great.

I too favour a ledger board, does not matter about blockwork then. Easier to parge the wall before fitting the board to achieve airtightness as well and easier to get all joists/ibeams level.