joe90

It would appear either the float or float switch is faulty. Can you see if the float “floats”. If it does, replace the float switch with a simple on off switch and dies the pump always run when you switch it on?.

I went for the vortex in the end, the pump and controller came in a box to be fixed to the lid but it was sooo noisy as the lid acted as a drum. I moved the box into a hole in the ground next to the tank with a stone drain down to the rumble drain so it would not get flooded out. It’s whisper quiet now and less obtrusive being below ground level.

Great fir that “rustic “ look and substantial. If it’s you're workshop you could have some shelves and a tool hanging wall.

plus if you do anything he may not want to sort “his” snagging problem out.

My other half wanted an island but like @Big Jimbo I hate cramped spaces (and I have been fitting kitchens for years). I came to a compromise with a peninsula That can be sat at, but a proper dining table behind.

@Pete You have got a good solicitor, most would tell you to press ahead,!!,!. It strikes me that if his bar b que (built on his land) is not moving with the wall then his ground is not pressing on the wall otherwise it would move with the wall. I guess you need to monitor the situation, how to do this I don’t know, laser and measurements? Distance from your buildings?

do you have any evidence/proof? As that would be required (I guess) before you did anything. Was it built as a retaining wall originally? What do your deeds say regarding ownership?

As long as it’s on a boundary so as to not hinder future building I would want to know how much they would pay you fir the privilege (oh and they pay for and sort any legal wayleave!)

Oh yes, there are very many timber framed houses, some hundreds of years old!!! Just needs designing properly.

Personally I would tell the agent as no formal agreement is in place then you are quite entitled to move the pipe on your land and you will liaise with the other users as to the timing of the change over. If they want a formal agreement you will sign one if they get it drawn up. Don’t be bullied and this does not mean falling out with anyone.

I think r6 or r9 will look good.

so your solicitor missed it?.?

but only if it was declared/documented in the first place surely ???? Perhaps it was not found because no one made it formal?.

It certainly looked it, but some would pay it for a quick job I guess?

@Mr Punter I disagree, it it were a DIY job gone wrong then maybe but the architect designed in the firrings so without them his insurance will be void,!! Also the GRP job is crap and needs doing properly. I once had a building Inspector tell me to alter a steel and I refused telling him it had been designed by a Structural engineer and passed by his dept. I pointed out if I altered it the customers guarantee from the SE was void, he backed down.

I just watched the moduloft video and it looks very comprehensive, but what cost?

You can get low tog carpets that are acceptable for UFH.

Yes, first hurdle will be planning.

I tend to agree with @Big Jimbo as above, contact your architect and get his views. You are paying good money and want a good job, if your architect insists on a rebuild (I hope) you can tell the builder that as it will be your architect that carries the can for a faulty design you have to do it his way (might keep you on good terms with the builder!!!!) and insist on a GRP man that has insurance and offers a guarantee.

Gosh, with mine it was inside the house so no need for insulation. We used pumice from base plate, via two bends like yours, hauntched with weak Mortor and up the right hand side just like yours. Our bottom lintel was oak (although it only holds up brickwork to first floor. In first floor isokern surrounded by blockwork supported on lintels like yours and back filled with vermiculite. So very similar but slightly different due to being internal only. (We did no calculations and BC did not question it.

no, route with a 9mm rounding over bit, first from one side then turn over and do the other, you end up with a bull nose which goes around the front corner. if it were me I would run the step right into the corner to stop you having a silly corner to get skirting into.

No, skirting on walls only, make up height with any timber, step from 18mm caber or similar, bigger on front and RHS BY 25mm then route (if I remember correctly you have a router?) from the top and below before it’s fixed.

flue damper!

No Oh yes, extendable?. Mine was fixed length colour coded to the stove.

This is how mine was fitted, excuse the CAD (crayon assisted drawing)!!! The fireplace was built with two concrete lintels to support the flue base the flue pipes built with chimney up and through the roof. After this was built I cut the metal flue to length but because it was “male “ both ends had to install it “on the piss” and slide the stove in, but had to shorten the metal pipe a bit to allow it to work. if it had been designed that the metal flue pipe fitted inside the adapter it would have been easier as it could have slid up the flue and been pulled down into the stove, but saying that the adapter would have to be glued well to the flue base to stop it falling down. re thinking this, if the metal flue can fit into the flue base I would have not fitted the adapter, just slid the metal flue into the base and sealed with rope. Hindsight eh! (but can’t remember if the pipe would go into the base ).