Russell griffiths

Buy a roll of packing banding, then staple it, more ridged than string.

Your roof WILL be noisy. any vaulted roof without a loft space will be noisy. you literally have 300mm between you and outside, you would need some kind of miracle insulation for it to not be noisy. BUT you need to get this in context my roof is 300mm deep full of rock wool insulation with a pir board underneath, green coat standing seam on top when it rains I can here it without doubt. Can I here it over the noise of the radio, no I can’t. if I turn the radio off then most definitely there is a dull tapperty tap. but is it annoying ? Not to me, I quite like it. but is your vaulted metal roof going to be quite, NO.

FOOK me sideways with a bent stick. No bloody poles, no sodding bits of pipe. Get a bloody forklift, unless you are in a town I bet there’s a farmer 15 mins down the road who will do it for a nifty. Start as you mean to go on, make connections now and use them throughout. Im all for having a go but some of these ideas leave me bewildered.

Find your local farmer £50 and he will unload it and put them where you want. I can move a pack with my excavator but you will scratch and damage some.

I was guessing the Cu was in there.

Yes, solid core fire door blank, it will be one solid lump of chipboard with two good veneer faces, if they cut it a lot they will need to stick an edge back on the cut or you will just have a chipboard finish. Just confirm this with builder. They are not very expensive.

20mm holes no probs. But 110mm and 100mm for mvhr are a bit trickier if you have 5-6 pipes together.

I think you need to re think your joist choices, definitely 100% not solid timber, and probably not i joist either. Probably better with a metal web joist, it will make your life so much easier when you come to running services. I stick built my last place 320m ground floor. Lots of timber in that. You also need to look look at your design at sole plate level, you need to mitigate cold junction at the floor. Also so look at adding a service batten on the inside to space the plasterboard away.

Yogurt. Who you trying to kid tubby.

First thing to do is stop and re look at your figures. 100mm with ufh is a bit inadequate really. Look at adjusting your levels so you can get more in. Scrap the sand blinding layer and replace with 50mm of eps, it will deform and form a nice surface for you dpm. Regarding the pir, bring it home and stick two scaffolding boards on it with a couple of concrete blocks on top, in a week it will be flat again.

If you are thinking of doing that much work yourself, then I Would look at icf. structure and insulation in one.

What you need to remember is that this compound is not water, it will not run off of high spots like water. so you need to identify high spots and mark them up with a big circle around them, they apply compound to the lowest spot first. if for arguments sake you pour on a high spot you will raise the high spot, maybe only by 2mm but it will rise, so you add 2mm to the high spot and then need to add more to a low spot to compensate. so start in low spots and build up to just having the minimum over the high. as long as your compound doesn’t have a minimum thickness.

He’s talking rubbish available in 2.4m and 3m.

I’ve used square edge and glue in my plant room, as I wanted a fully decorated surface before installing plumbing stuff, IMHO the finish is not good enough for a visible house wall without using their fine surface treatment. What are you going to do with fixing holes.

44kg per sheet. I’ve been fitting them on my own all week. I’m sure you’d builder will manage.

this is how we did ours.

I don’t think you have a choice. for building regs you need to specify how you will extract damp smelly air and replace with fresh air. so what do you think you will do. Build a good quality house and then have trickle vents to let cold air in. then heat the inside of the house and blow it all outside when you turn an extractor on. if your building to a good standard I don’t really know of another solution except MVHR.

I would add that design is the bigger factor to cost rather than size. I think if I had changed my design, different roof, less weird angles, different materials. I think I could build my place for £100,000 less than it’s going to cost. Square box, red tiled roof, plastic facia and gutters. Probably why the developers stick to a certain design.

I would talk to your bc, I spoke to mine about it and he just said as long as it looks right he won’t be measuring them.

In that location I would look at a splash back designed for kitchens one piece, or in your case 3 pieces, no grout to get dirty. And you can probably fit it yourself with a tube of pu adhesive and a tube of silicon.

All depends on what you mean by flat, they are reasonably square and true, but after you stack them 10 high and fill with concrete the surface has many lumpy bumpy sticky out bits, definitely not flat enough to screw boards to.

You cannot just screw to the woodcrete blocks, not unless you want a wall that is about as flat as the moon, will either need battens or dot n dab.

The easiest thing to do is forget metro tiles, they look naff unless very well planned out. Always look silly in a corner, again down to planning. Choose a better tile and your options will increase tenfold.

I used knauf omni fit 100mm x 2 layers easier to handle and cut at 100mm. Are you happy with 50mm pir, I used 75mm and I’m still not happy. Taped all sheets together and glued them all while fitting for vapour control.

Your insulation value should be geared around the insulation, not the plasterboard, get the insulation levels right and it hardly matters what board you use.