Russell griffiths

Is there a mistake using some of the description here. as far as I’m concerned a biscuit screed is a non structural very weak mix sand and cement lean mix designed to go around ufh pipes to spread the heat and hold the heat in a controlled manner. it has no structural strength, cannot be tiled on or walked on. the flooring is then laid across this on joists carrying the load, the screed is just a heat carrier. the other thing is a structural screed which could either be liquid flow screed or a traditional sand and cement mixture, normally fairly strong mix which can have added fibres for strength and anti cracking. this drys very hard and can support multiple floor finishes. what are we actually talking about because I’m confused as to what’s trying to be accomplished.

Not a typo, can’t remember the name of the company, so I thought a bit of google would find it, even with the wrong initials. 😉

I don’t think we are getting the full story, I believe this could be a non structural biscuit screed on a suspended floor.

That looks like a small space, have you read the clearance regs for the stove your buying. brickwork first screed second. imho.

Go to band p eps, they are a manufacturer not a re seller, save a fortune they will cut what thickness you want so you could go 100mm eps 90eps 80mm traditional sand and cement screed. good thickness to keep the ufh pipes well covered and a good lump to use as a big radiator.

A photo would be better.

Wow 60 years ago.

Cheers everyone in this size room I don’t think it’s going to make much difference.

Mvhr in a shower room plenhum above the shower enclosure or away from the enclosure room size 3m x 2.7m.

How far out are we talking if it’s a fair chunk you would be better putting the studs right. remember if it sticks out one side it will be low on the other. you can straighten a wonky stud with a saw cut and then re screw it. if a stud is low you can add a bead of no nails to that stud then fit your boards, but don’t screw into that stud, let the adhesive go off then screw it. if you do use packers you will only need 4 per 1200 wide sheet one every 300mm same as screw spacing.

I was just going by the Calder lead guide I’ve always stuck to the 1.5m i see your only fixing it at one end, so I think your in unknown territory.

Take up the rest of those boards use 22mm chipboard flooring glued and screwed down, float this over the extension bit, making sure it’s nice and level. you will always feel that the corner bit is a bit bouncy. you could add a ply layer to your insulation first and screw it down through the insulation, then bring the chipboard over the top, this will take out a bit of bounce. every solution will have a bit of compromise. or take up what you have, extend the joists across the new bit, then board over the top. you ideally want one finished thing not bits and bobs. what is that green strip for, wasn’t that where the old wall was.

You will get such massive expansion and contraction at that length it will crease and fracture.

If your having an MBC frame then get MBC to do the insulated slab, unless for any structural reason you can’t have it. you won’t save a lot by changing spec, Just use the full package because its extremely good. being a bit harsh here, you need to go and do some home work, go and look at some houses being built, learn what each thing is called, if you don’t know what your buying you are going to get your pants pulled down.

Make sure you mask off the overhang, you will want to oil that bit.

If you oil the underside you will struggle to get anything to stick to them. you have two choices 1 screw them down and use a matching wooden plug to fill the holes. 2 paint the underside, not oil, I painted the underside of all my oak worktops before fitting. do a dry fit, then flip them over and mask up a straight line on the overhang bit, two coats of a good quality exterior paint to seal the surface, let it dry and then stick them down with a good quality no nails type thing.

If you like the plot, then why not be blunt and tell them that, say your willing to go ahead, but will retain £50,000 for them to install a new treatment plant and drainage field. or you walk away and start again.

With your gable ladder type arrangement would you not be better taking the smaller, flying rafters internally an extra rafter gap, so you get a counterbalance effect on them. depends if you need extra support if your soffit is large.

Have you had that wall design passed by building control. in my mind it doesn’t look good enough insulation wise.

Your builder should be painting the ceiling before the kitchen goes in, trying to paint around it is just stupid, it will need 3 coats, a diluted mist coat and 2 top coats, mist coat the walls as well.

Bugger me that’s exactly what I thought.

Simple, if it’s not in the deeds of your plot that it has to be kept for your neighbours use, then just dig it up and skip it. this could actually simplify things. I have a property with next doors tank and drainage field at the far end of the garden, it’s in my deeds that it’s there and I have to allow access for maintenance. so if the bloke selling your plot is playing dum then what’s to stop you digging his up and building a garage on top of it. unless it’s stipulated where it is and the need to stay away from it, as in an easement around it, then buy the plot, drive all over it with a big excavator and break it all up, he will soon regret not showing where it was.

Screw to frame. I think I used 5x30 wood screws. strap is probably the wrong word plate is a better description 120 long by. 75wide ription

You can get a multi hole strap from most builders merchants and screw fix. I had boxes of the correct straps, the fitters said they are crap and sent me to screw fix for a bundle far better, more flex for acurate screwing.

Wasn’t it obvious with the pipe position before the rad was fitted.