Russell griffiths

Cheers everyone in this size room I don’t think it’s going to make much difference.

Mvhr in a shower room plenhum above the shower enclosure or away from the enclosure room size 3m x 2.7m.

How far out are we talking if it’s a fair chunk you would be better putting the studs right. remember if it sticks out one side it will be low on the other. you can straighten a wonky stud with a saw cut and then re screw it. if a stud is low you can add a bead of no nails to that stud then fit your boards, but don’t screw into that stud, let the adhesive go off then screw it. if you do use packers you will only need 4 per 1200 wide sheet one every 300mm same as screw spacing.

I was just going by the Calder lead guide I’ve always stuck to the 1.5m i see your only fixing it at one end, so I think your in unknown territory.

Take up the rest of those boards use 22mm chipboard flooring glued and screwed down, float this over the extension bit, making sure it’s nice and level. you will always feel that the corner bit is a bit bouncy. you could add a ply layer to your insulation first and screw it down through the insulation, then bring the chipboard over the top, this will take out a bit of bounce. every solution will have a bit of compromise. or take up what you have, extend the joists across the new bit, then board over the top. you ideally want one finished thing not bits and bobs. what is that green strip for, wasn’t that where the old wall was.

You will get such massive expansion and contraction at that length it will crease and fracture.

If your having an MBC frame then get MBC to do the insulated slab, unless for any structural reason you can’t have it. you won’t save a lot by changing spec, Just use the full package because its extremely good. being a bit harsh here, you need to go and do some home work, go and look at some houses being built, learn what each thing is called, if you don’t know what your buying you are going to get your pants pulled down.

Make sure you mask off the overhang, you will want to oil that bit.

If you oil the underside you will struggle to get anything to stick to them. you have two choices 1 screw them down and use a matching wooden plug to fill the holes. 2 paint the underside, not oil, I painted the underside of all my oak worktops before fitting. do a dry fit, then flip them over and mask up a straight line on the overhang bit, two coats of a good quality exterior paint to seal the surface, let it dry and then stick them down with a good quality no nails type thing.

If you like the plot, then why not be blunt and tell them that, say your willing to go ahead, but will retain £50,000 for them to install a new treatment plant and drainage field. or you walk away and start again.

With your gable ladder type arrangement would you not be better taking the smaller, flying rafters internally an extra rafter gap, so you get a counterbalance effect on them. depends if you need extra support if your soffit is large.

Have you had that wall design passed by building control. in my mind it doesn’t look good enough insulation wise.

Your builder should be painting the ceiling before the kitchen goes in, trying to paint around it is just stupid, it will need 3 coats, a diluted mist coat and 2 top coats, mist coat the walls as well.

Bugger me that’s exactly what I thought.

Simple, if it’s not in the deeds of your plot that it has to be kept for your neighbours use, then just dig it up and skip it. this could actually simplify things. I have a property with next doors tank and drainage field at the far end of the garden, it’s in my deeds that it’s there and I have to allow access for maintenance. so if the bloke selling your plot is playing dum then what’s to stop you digging his up and building a garage on top of it. unless it’s stipulated where it is and the need to stay away from it, as in an easement around it, then buy the plot, drive all over it with a big excavator and break it all up, he will soon regret not showing where it was.

Screw to frame. I think I used 5x30 wood screws. strap is probably the wrong word plate is a better description 120 long by. 75wide ription

You can get a multi hole strap from most builders merchants and screw fix. I had boxes of the correct straps, the fitters said they are crap and sent me to screw fix for a bundle far better, more flex for acurate screwing.

Wasn’t it obvious with the pipe position before the rad was fitted.

My personal opinion obviously your front door needs redesigning the location is too close to the side wall, you will have problems once that wall is plastered, the door will never open properly and will always be a PITA. A 100mm stub wall should have been built to allow the door to open 120 degrees, you will struggle to get that to open to 90.

I don’t believe any type of survey,will provide the layout of the drainage field. what you can find out is the start of it, the second it branches of into a herringbone pattern then I think you will have problems with the camera. you will be able to plot the tank location and the direction of travel of the pipe, then the beginning of the drainage field. I would have thought just standing in the garden you would get a reasonable idea where it would be. but before you spend £300, what would happen if it’s not where you would like it. if for instance it travels too far into your plot, but would be ok being further back to the boundary, how will this be achieved. would the vendors be willing to relocate it closer to the boundary is there room to put it in their land. could you install a new one and share it. I think I would ask all these questions, because as soon as you find out it’s not where you want it, it’s game over unless you have a solution already in place.

You really need to shop around, it is a pain and wastes time. every thing I buy over £300 I get 3 prices. just last week I needed plasterboard and some osb. 3 merchants that I have accounts with all 3. cheapest £460, next £480, dearest £540. on just a few sheets of stuff, that’s a fair difference between the 3.

4.9 kw panels on the roof, how and when will I use any power generated ? we both work from home. Highly insulated icf house, very airtight. ASHP UFH. Everywhere This is coming from my complete panic of having battery storage in the attached garage. I believe it’s something serious that building regs are looking into due to the increased number of fires caused by batteries, not necessarily solar batteries, but battery fires in general. I might be over panicking, but if I can run my house fairly efficiently then I would rather forget battery storage. yours mr over panicking from Cirencester.

@Carly Lawson there’s nothing to apologise for, I just think you are jumping to decisions after talking to someone selling a product. it’s like the saying, don’t ask a barber if you need a haircut. I would say do more research, and then base your answers on sound evidence. you have mentioned wall thickness a couple of times, unless your land is only a few metres wide then 50mm wider or thinner is not going to matter. the crane comment was in regards to a timberframe house, like saying timberframe was cheaper, but forgetting you needed a crane to put it up. I think we’re hijacking the original post here, so maybe start your one about your journey and hopefully we can point you in the right direction there.

I think you need to do some more detailed research. some of your points mentioned here are ludicrous. very few things you build with will be made in England thinking something is expensive because it needs additional bracing to erect it is like saying timberframe is cheaper, but forgetting you need a crane to put it up. my bracing cost for my icf was around £1000 for a 240m build. Picking a product like durisol because it doesn’t require bracing is absolutely bonkers. look at the products in detail and then break the cost down versus the benefit.

You will need to remove the whole roof structure and start again tiles off, rafters off, ceiling down ceiling joists down. then you wil need all new rafter done to the correct spec for that span, the rafters either side of the roof windows will need to be doubled up to take the load. it will all need fixing down correctly, as you have removed the ceiling joists which are acting as a support for the roof and to stop it spreading. if you just remove the ceiling joists you will end up with your roof tiles sitting in the kitchen.