Russell griffiths

Public liability now then, then add £100,000 rebuild to it every year you renew it. I’ve upped the rebuild cost of mine three times now. have renewed it 4 times.

Was that one on Amazon no good.

So is it an empty shell, or are they going to live in it. we are using protek, have never had to claim thankfully so can’t really comment if they are good, but they’re always helpful on the phone.

Why are you cutting it 1cm, if it’s under carpet then cut a proper chase out fit proper plastic conduit and fill it back in with screed, carpet over the top.

Time to walk away, it looked overpriced to me.

Tbh you don’t have a lot of choices you can’t stop the concrete mid pour and insert a dpc so unless you pour, stop, add dpc and then pour again there’s no other way i know of doing it.

I found that scratching it up and putting a coat of render on them, then any glue you use will stick better.

Get a waterproof admixture in the first load of concrete, bring that up to dpc level, then your normal concrete mix after that. how is the rest of the icf formed if your only worried about that bit.

I’ve just re read M4 and you are correct on room size. I’ve been going by some drawing I have see of clear uninterrupted space of 750 square. with the 900 wide I believe the basin can project into that 900 width.

What are we all looking at, mines been designed around a 750 square I certainly haven’t got 900 wide clear space.

Don’t install something you will hate, just to comply. find a better solution. a mate of mine recessed a small sink 90mm into a stud wall to get the required clearance. remember you only need a square of 750mm in front of the toilet for disabled regs.

This is always a difficult area to make look good, I’ve rarely seen a good finish here.

And this is why all old pubs mysteriously burn down.

Remember to position the steels in the room on the floor before you put the acros and needles in, once you have it all propped you sometimes cannot get the steels in. I have seen this a few times. if the celcons are not strong enough you might need to chop them back and build up in 7n lightweight concrete blocks. you can also change the cavity into one solid pier.

Then the tiles and adhesive. adds up to a bloody lot.

This post is going nowhere without a diagram traditional screed can go on a suspended floor, if the floor was designed for it. flow screed can go on a suspended floor, if it was designed for it. but you cannot put anything on top of unsupported insulation and think it will make a suitable structure.

Tips don’t get it on your hands. sooper dooper tip. if you get it on your hands, don’t put your gloves back on. 😉

In this case I think we all need to re address this question. a few diagrams would be good. im saying your biscuit mix is no good to support your tiles and you will need a load spreading board of some description.

Is there a mistake using some of the description here. as far as I’m concerned a biscuit screed is a non structural very weak mix sand and cement lean mix designed to go around ufh pipes to spread the heat and hold the heat in a controlled manner. it has no structural strength, cannot be tiled on or walked on. the flooring is then laid across this on joists carrying the load, the screed is just a heat carrier. the other thing is a structural screed which could either be liquid flow screed or a traditional sand and cement mixture, normally fairly strong mix which can have added fibres for strength and anti cracking. this drys very hard and can support multiple floor finishes. what are we actually talking about because I’m confused as to what’s trying to be accomplished.

Not a typo, can’t remember the name of the company, so I thought a bit of google would find it, even with the wrong initials. 😉

I don’t think we are getting the full story, I believe this could be a non structural biscuit screed on a suspended floor.

That looks like a small space, have you read the clearance regs for the stove your buying. brickwork first screed second. imho.

Go to band p eps, they are a manufacturer not a re seller, save a fortune they will cut what thickness you want so you could go 100mm eps 90eps 80mm traditional sand and cement screed. good thickness to keep the ufh pipes well covered and a good lump to use as a big radiator.

A photo would be better.

Wow 60 years ago.