Russell griffiths

Don’t forget your height choices standard uk doors are 1981 European doors can be 2040.

You need to work out what you want. as a minimum I would go. 838mm doors 30mm lining 2mm hinge gap 5-8mm packing. so 838 + 60 4 10 rough opening minimum 912mm.

Rough opening for doors is too tight, you need to leave room to pack the lining and get it squared up. just think you can make a wall as soundproof as you want, but as soon as you put a door in it it becomes pointless.

Nope they are all just a sticky grey stuff.

Do not re fill with mortar it will crack and become loose. pull out all the old sealant and clean the gap out, re-seal with lead sealant. in a perfect world the render should have a bell cast drip above that sealant, but you probably don’t want to be hacking that off.

Plenty done with tyres already.

Depends what you want them for, we use them as strainer posts on wire fencing. but you cannot use them near a watercourse, it’s the coal tar treatment they are soaked in. I would not use them to build raised garden beds or a garden pond or anything kids climb on, but banging it in the ground in the corner of a field, you won’t get hanged for it.

I don’t know your model, but some heat pumps have different demands even if the same kw, mine has 3 power cables going to it, a 4mm and 2 x 2.5mm, then 2x cat 6 shielded. look up exactly what feeds you need, but then what happens if you change to a different heat pump. use the insulated pipe for the water and run a couple of 40mm ducts for power and comms.

Hormann is a good make, they always look nice at the shows. if I was having a roller I would have one.

Do you want tough industrial looking, or thin and flimsy, or insulated. is it a room you want to work in so needs to be a bit more comfortable. you literally only get what you pay for, a £600 rollerdoor will be as thin as a bean tin. a rollerdoor will require a fair bit of headroom above the door for it to roll up into.

Are you having mvhr, I would presume so. have a look at the units and the ductwork going to them. Then you have a cylinder and all associated manifolds. if the mvhr is going somewhere else then it’s plenty big enough.

I think your plant room is too small and wrongly placed, if you are having vaulted ceilings you need to work out a plan of how to get services to all the areas of the house. for example you will need 2x90mm ducts to the far master bed, how will you get these across the living area. the plant is located at the end where the glasshouse and garage are, but neither of these will require much from the plant room. just a thought lots of planning needed, it’s easy to draw a pretty picture, but trying to build it can soon tear chunks out of that picture trying to get the services from A to B.

As above 25mm will not be big enough for the power feeds i have 3 going out to my unit, 2 data which are tiny.

You need to build it to comply with building regs, I don’t care about your planning, but for future use if you allow anybody to sleep in it and you have a fire and somebody is hurt they will crucify you. what if after the build you want to chuck it on air b+b, it will need to have a fire safety plan to let it. doing it right will not cost much more and you will end up with a usable building, doing it on the cheap I bet two or three years after you move out it will be scrap. have you looked at the timber cabins and add more insulation and stuff. I agree about renting £25 grand down the drain build something that will be useful. will the house have a big garage. how about a big triple garage with granny flat above, build that first and it’s there forever.

Double or triple up the ledger and make it more of a structural item, support it from both ends, and bolt to the wall. without proper pictures or diagrams it’s hard to say, is this just a small flat roof.

That’s a big opening I might stop and re think this situation, we don’t know enough about the whole job. can you not enlarge that timber so it spans the same opening and only needs the fixings into the brickwork above.

What does the lintel span, if it’s only a short opening then I think the risk of damage to the lintel is minimal i would use a resin and threaded rod not a bolt that expands.

Roughly every 200mm you can go 150 around the perimeter, but if it’s well stuck on thats ott, every 300 would still be ok. are you boarding over that timber ? if so I would have boarded that first to make sure your lower wall is in line.

That’s a nice looking house.

If you want to go high end you can get a system that has an edge strip that clips onto the rails, so it provides an upstand, so no retaining walls or edging curbs. you can also get a system that looks like decking, but uses porcelain tiles the long 1200 x300 strips.

Do a base layer of crushed concrete, then type 1 fit 20mm porcelain slabs on pedestal bases with an open joint, you can then re align them every couple of years by lifting the slabs and re adjusting the pedestals.

Put the guesstimated water in a bucket, add the powder,whisk with a power drill, put the half bag in the corner for later use. Easy as that.

Can you not dot n dab it with flexible tile adhesive then when it’s gone off screw it up with any type of galvanised screw and plug.

90% of what you buy will be chipboard core with a fancy timber on the face. unless you want to spend big bucks. I’ve just had a couple of nice looking doors £250 each, still chipboard core.

Insulation levels look inadequate. has this passed building control.