Russell griffiths

I think you need someone to specify the fitting of the pole plate on the wall, bolt size and spacing is very important if it’s a floor.

Having been using this exact product today I can add some absolutely essential information when using this product if you are not wearing gloves and you get a fair bit on your fingers, do not then decide to put your gloves on it does make it a fair bit awkward to remove your gloves later in the day. ??????

Coming in at a tangent, have you had this priced by some builders you may find it to be cost prohibitive, and for the money you could move up to one of the detached ones in the street. I used to live in nw London and I now you could easily spend a lot of money getting that how you want it.

We are having sloping soffits, as it will follow the same lines as the soffit on the gables, personal choice I think.

They don’t really work like that they don’t need to conform to the slate at all. What thay basically do is put a right angle on your slate. Imagine you where hand forming fake slates out of tin, you would bend a right angle in the ones that sat against the wall to prevent water running down the gap, well that’s what the soaker does it sits on top of the slate to make a right angle, the next slate sits on top so the soaker is not visible, you then place another soaker, they are laid in a bond type configuration just like your eaves slates, by having one below another you create a bond pattern and remove the straight gap that you would have hope that made sense.

I think bc turn a blind eye to the upstand height, but be aware of the render discolouration if you have it to close to your roof, as rain bounce will splash up on to it.

Are you not looking at this to critically it looks like there is a sink in that corner, if so you will only see the top 300mm of that corner.

Should there not be a 150mm upstanding to the roof before any render board to allow for rain bounce not sure on current regs but a lead upstand always had to be that high, just the same as distance from ground to damp course.

Are you using nudura, if so you need to more or less disregard everything you read on the subject and do your own details Most of the information you find on the net regarding icf is not appropriate. Its all American and has very little in comparison to here. Also so if you are using any of the eps type of blocks YOU WILL NOT get a dpm to lap into the blocks, bloody impossible won’t happen, not unless your names Paul Daniels have a look on @Stones blog he has some detailed pics of how his slab foundation and blocks marry up stones had to use a liquid dpm because of radon, I had to use a liquid because of methane. If you have neither I would just specify waterproof concrete for first truck load and then normal concrete after that.

So I’m sitting in the bath. STEADY LADIES. and thought I would see what I could find to help our ol mate @recoveringacademic Out off out later to practice my John travolta moves, so check that out and get that wall set out.

@PeterW is with me, you also need to do something similar at a corner, you can look it up on YouTube, look up framing. If you look up California corner that might help with a corner you need to make sure you can support your boards on the external corner as well as internal corner. That one will mess with your head.

@recoveringacademic what you need to do is mark out on the floor ALL YOUR WALLS, don’t build one wall and then add another this will bite you later layout your sole plate and mark all junctions, corners. Then mark them on your sole plate. The distance between studs is completely irrelevant, apart from the studs your plasterboard joins on i couldn’t give a hoot if there 457.5mm apart, it is only the corners and junctions and board joins that are important. Think about these 3 points and do not worry about the other being out by 10-20 50mm it is not important.

Tbh @Onoff corner is wrong, you need to construct a 3 stud corner i will try to explain the first straight wall will have another wall that intersects it, like a T, you need to know this point at this junction of the two walls you put 2 studs with a gap in between equal to the width of the wall that will be intersecting so your studs come along all nicely at 600 centres then you have 2 studs with a 90mm gap between them, turn a couple of off cuts of stud sideways between the 2 studs that are set 90mm apart this makes your 3 stud corner. Pic to follow.

The eps boards you use under your dpm aren’t wasted, you just subtract the amount from your final insulation layer so if you are having 150mm for arguments sake, you still use 150 mm but 25mm under the dpm to protect it then another 25mm on top of dpm then another 100mm. So total 150mm you have just trapped the dpm in between the bottom two layers. Minimal sand, just a very light dusting to take out any undulations, then lay your first board.

Stand it on what ever you want when the house is signed off, stick it on e bay for the next poor bloke who has to deal with such a thing.

Why not use 100mm ducting instead of underground pipe and bends, cheaper and it’s what it’s meant for. ?‍♂️ I found a heavily insulated 32 mm pipe fitted nicely in a 65mm duct, even cheaper than 100mm.

Just be careful not to be too over enthusiastic with the whacking, it is possible to move thin walls by compacting tight up to them, outer load bearing should be fine. If you have any thin internal walls fill both sides evenly and whack both sides evenly

From what I have seen I would check all their measurements, twice mbc working in the dark and late on Saturdays would not fill me with confidence that a mistake had not been made. if you are confident re checking then do it, if not pay your surveyor to come and check all points prior to concrete placement

You must have a purlin under there, surely just re read it, do you mean span, as in wall to wall, or do you mean 7m from wall plate to ridge i struggled to find any timber longer than 6m unless it’s a telegraph pole.

If your span is 8m then you need to look at what product you will use as rafters you certainly won’t be using solid timber, so it will be an engineered product. If you don’t use a blown in product you need to look at how you will fit the insulation, you really don’t want to try and fit pir between I joists as that will be a ball ache of a job to do well. You will need a blown product, or something squishy to fill the awkward shape of an i joist. My i joists turned up today, and apart from the cost I can’t fault the product.

Our bc have stated that a fire escape window be fitted to our downstairs office, when I asked why he said it could very easily be changed to an extra bedroom, so it ensured that any work being done without planning would still meet building regs.

I think I’m right in thinking you have hand cut your trusses, so even though you have used the word truss they are not the engineered version direct from a factory. So if you use those Simpson ties that are very thin I would have no problem cutting a 3mm deep notch but if they are from a factory DO NOT cut or notch any part.

No don’t do it, it will look shite.

Evening all having just finished my second concrete pour in my icf walls I thought I would post up a recommendation of the company I have used for the pumping. 100% happy with the service I received and Kevin the owner operator knows icf very well so new exactly how we should tackle the job. Kevin told me he travels north as far as Worcestershire, east to Reading, and all over Somerset and Bristol areas. Kevin draycup. 07713974541

Any reason you can’t do this yourself Is there no storm drain that goes to the river.