Russell griffiths

Nope, not unless you go 150mm blocks how will you hold the second storey up, you can’t go two storey in a single skin of blocks, it would just not stand up.

If @steve77r you are looking for cheap you need to follow the route of the mass house builders ordinary square shape, red tile roof, plastic facia, plastic gutter brick n block or timberframe and brick skin if forterra was a cost effective way they would all be using it.

What sort of budget do you have. That way we can tell you if it’s a complete non starter.

I bought a lot of kerto beams to use as pole plates for my roof, straight as a die, lovely to work with but double the price of standard timber. Why can you not use two sole plates of 125x47 with spreader plates with a 50mm gap with insulation in between.

Show us a pic. I would think doing a major renovation like you are, not doing the roof would be a mistake how are you going to insulate your rooms in the roof ? this may be a decisive factor in deciding if the whole roof needs to come off, to ensure adequate air flow. Really need to look at building regs for roof design

I did consider doing mine in panel form, I was going to set myself up like a little factory make a framing table so you can build a panel in the table, all nice and square air hoses hanging from ceiling for speed and so you don’t trip over everything overhead gantry with electric winch for moving completed panels, or a forklift.

You have said you are on a limited budget, so why waste it on a QS £2-3000 in fees will buy half a kitchen.

Got a picture, what sort of budget have you got ? you could insulate it and then get a company in to lay a screed over it.

Ok so I’m going to mess with your head a bit. @ninja432 how about a floating floor, it used to be popular, and if this is just an office ,gym type room would be more than adequate. Eps insulation, laid on concrete floor, moisture resistant tongue and groove chipboard on top all glued together to make one big sheet, edges held down by skirting. No joists, no hangers, no screwing or packing, It would depend on the quality of the floor underneath

SIDE HANDLE Always install and always hold it, no matter how strong you think you are if it kicks it will jump at ya. Never use it without the guard in place. Watch a few you tube horror vids it will wake you up a bit.

External waterproof tile adhesive.

What I don’t get is with these woodfibre type blocks is this pour strategy, they say you can pour every few courses, if this is the case how are they dealing with dry joints between pours, if you had a 5m high wall and poured it in many pours it’s not exactly a monolithic structure is it. ???

What is Screed sorry but if you need to ask this, then I think you need to go back to the drawing board and do a design and get it looked at by someone with more knowledge. Have you submitted building regs application. I was under the impression that conversion of a garage to a habitable space would need to comply with building regs.

Going back to your original point regarding bracing, none off those diagrams included a hand rail, when my pump guy turned up he commented on how nice the working platform was, and he told me about 2 jobs recently 1 he refused to pour as the platform was only 12 inches wide with no hand rail the second the self builders wife had a serious fall from the platform which required hospital treatment. I was the the one who started the chat about getting a group together to buy the timber bracing in the end I used the correct steel bracing with full hand rail and adjustable system and I’m glad I did. In all the bracing cost about £1400 and was money well spent.

Are you saying you have a concrete floor that you are putting joists onto ? if this is the case why not use a liquid dpm painted on and screw through that.

Go local to you, or transport might kill it. I used Griggs timber in Gloucestershire. Where are You?

Just my opinion of course, but why @AnonymousBosch are you shopping at b+q for plaster, must be a better price at bm and use by date will be longer as they have a bigger turnover of product, it also builds a good relationship with bm i have 2 bm that I have been using for the last year and they all call me by my first name as I walk in.

Assume the ufh has been off for the last week so floor has cooled. We think spring is here, all heating off, but at 6 pm cold chill descends, it’s at this point we need a blast off hot to get it all toasty again.

So a situation is happening in our old house, which isn’t a problem as we have a wood burner that heats the house up nice and quick but what about the new place. New house, nicely insulated, good windows, underfloor heating. Now the scenario that has happened lately. Lovely spring days, 15-16 degrees outside, the underfloor heating is off, the patio door is open, back door open and dogs running in and out, and a nice breeze is keeping everything feeling comfortable. At 6 in the evening it starts to get a bit chilly so we pull the patio door up, back door still open, dogs still rampaging about, it gets a bit colder so the dogs come in for dinner and the back door is pulled shut. How do we now lift the temperature in the house up, it has dropped to 8-10 degrees outside. Will it take to long for the ufh to have effect? will the oven on and the dogs farting away in the boot room be enough, do I light a load of candles, its as though we need a big blast of instant heat, fake gas fire? Wood burner? Hairdryer? any thoughts people.

Not sure why you are trying to do this, we had our survey co set out my place 3 separate site visits, a not straight forward building design cost £350 money well spent.

Hi I’m building in icf and live in Cirencester, my architect had never done anything in icf before, I don’t think it is necessary as long as you choose the one you want to use you just give him the dimensions of the blocks and he adds them in to his drawings.

A fibreglass angle would last forever and would be less of a cold spot.

Buy a cordless one, so much more manoeuvrable than with a cord.

Looking at the pic the garden wall has some steel bolts in it, these where either put in to prevent it tipping or have been put in after it has moved. I cant see for the life of me how any structural engineer would want to qualify that that wall is good enough for a new build extension i would rip the lot out and get it properly designed. You say the foundations are thick, but that’s your opinion, on that slope I would want a minimum of a 1m deep below the bottom of that wall. As a massive stab in the dark your original computer pic looks to me to be a nice glass box with flat roof, build cost £25,000.

My mate keeps an a4 sheet of paper folded into a top pocket size, with it is a small pen every time he thinks of something he whips it out and scribbles it down he is one of the most organised lads I know, old school but it works.