Russell griffiths

Have you seen the Aframes for sale on e bay. Ex holiday homes complete and on a site, need dismantling and removal £12,000 I did think of having a serious look as we will be putting up another couple of cabins in the next cool years, but an A frame would not be in keeping with my other cabins. TBH the one you linked to is barely more than a shed as @iSelfBuild said, I wouldn’t consider them fit for my holiday let’s let alone permanent residency my neighbour has a few cabins he lets out that where built to a standard that you could live in them, I looked at replacing mine with something similar to what he has, I was looking at about £100,000 to get one onto site and erected, then services on top, so £110,000 plus your plot plus planning plus landscaping.

900x1200 smooth slate on e bay £80 each.

Our local wood burning stove place sells big chunks of slate for hearths, would be easy to cut these to shape.

@Patrick you need some clarification on this, piercing the DPM is a big problem. In @nod pictures he hasn’t pierced the DPM, this is covered by the insulation, the black plastic you can see with the clips pierced through is a second layer called a slip layer, this is there to stop the screed getting between the insulation and lifting it up. You need to make it clear you you are not using block n beam but beam with insulation panels. What detail has the insulation block manufacturer recomended. And why use the insert insulation if it’s £3000 dearer than normal blocks.

I wouldn’t fill anything before you work out the water problem is there another window above that one. Any moisture in the cavity needs shedding to the outside before you lock it in. You could stuff a towel up there to stop the draft while you work out the bigger problem.

Metal solutions, Bolton.

In our last place we had 125 downlights, I’m glad I’m not paying the electric anymore.

I spotted it about 15mins after nod posted it you need to get up early in the morning @AnonymousBosch To get one past me.

Use a company with a mole, mole under the building and open trench any other part where the surface is not important.

No use an icf product that has a radius form, I used nudura for my icf and I know they have a radius form.

Our piles where cheaper than I expected approx £350 per pile 6-7m deep my ringbeam cost £7000 to complete but that was with me doing all the labour, but mines in excess of 100LM if you only have 41LM then that’s fairly small and should be only a few days work to do.

If you haven’t paid for it, who gives a shit, if it’s wrong and you are convinced you are right, tell them to pull it down and take the shit away if you are 100% convinced you are right stop work immediately and throw them off the site.

Go and see a good accountant.

We are only just discussing door location with the window co now, I believe because of the width of the frames they will sit towards the front edge of the wall, still needs clarification. As to waterproofing im afraid I won’t be doing anything unusual as I have an 1800mm roof overhang 45degree rain hardly gets near the front of the building

again not really what your doing but this is a 250x150 icf beam across the top of our doors. Like in my previous picture we are having an aluminium flashing to cover this on the outside

Have you had a structural engineer look at this i would be surprised if a 300x100 Chanel will span 5m and support all that glass and a door and a floor not the look your after, but this is what we are doing to hide the 300mm deep concrete beam above our doors.

For the sake of 5 minutes work I would cut a couple of blocks to stick in.

If you need to borrow a multi tool I have one here however I think the banging method will work.

When you put it back check if you are supposed to put blocking in the web of that joist.

Get an old wood chisel, 25mm wide put up against the head and hit with a hammer, pretend you are trying to actually chop the heads off but this won’t happen, what will happen is the nail will pull out a couple of mm so you can get a small crow bar or a pair of pinchers on to them, then yank out. Easy peasy.

For a nice raised strip between the gravel when the time comes. 3-5 rows of granite setts, you can raise each row 5mm higher than the previous to create a raised hump without the teeth clattering of a raised curb. Point them up nice and they will look the nuts

I would chuck a chunk of 18mm ply on top of the insulation, slide your bucket across the surface quickly and stab into the screed face, then lift sweep surface and repeat.

I wouldn’t do anything neat until you are 99%finished scratch a trench out with a mattock and fil with a strong concrete mix set 50-75mm high round of the top with a chunk of timber, rough up with a broom to make non slip, Roberts your mothers brother. Anything pretty you put there will get trashed by the first delivery wagon. On a a different note, are you going to get you hedge in soon, stick some rabbit gaurds around them and by the time you move in you will have a nice bushy hedge. Pennies to do in the grand scheme of things but worth thousands in getting it established early.

I would use my mini excavator, park on top of the screed and get your teeth under the edge and lift, flip all the bits on top of the screed and sweep the loose off the insulation.

Toughened on the inside, laminated outer pane.