Russell griffiths

Did they cover those solid builds with a bitumen paint before plaster, is that what we can see??? as it does look a bit more solid the more I look. Hope you not going to make me cut my right one off if I’m wrong.

@Declan52 you chicken, just had a thought @Charly is your house poured concrete, ash type construction. As there’s no way I can see that arch being structural it’s far too flat to be structural brickwork, but it could be one of those flyash concrete type mixes where they poured them between shuttering. Take me off more plaster where a lintel may be.

If anybody intends living on site I strongly recommend watching a you tube couple called. PURE LIVING FOR LIFE. look at how they have built an outbuilding in front of the door to their caravan and fitted a woodburner. Be careful not to copy any of their building practices as he is a total dork and cocks everything up, but the shed in front of the caravan is brilliant and will turn a miserable winter into a nice jolly place to be. I actually have the same same situation on our current house, cold miserable bungalow but add a bootroom with wood burner and it’s transformed, dry clothes warm and cosy dogs, non moaning wife.

can anybody say what they don’t like about this. This is how my 3 bathrooms where plumbed in my last place, I would like to do the same again. Tell me why not.

Get a hammer and smash it into the curved bit, I will bet my right one it’s metal mesh with plaster over it, or plasterboard cut to a curve plastered over. So in effect the arch is a dummy and performs no structural function. Go on dare ya.

Depends how bad your weather is, down here I would just cover the top couple of courses.

I am actually having a floor drain in every wet area of the house, I did ask a question about it a good while ago but had very little response as it’s just not an English thing to do.

Do yourself a favour and have a full scaffold front and back, it will cost a fortune you will hate paying for it, you will question your logic at the beginning. But at the end you will stand there and say it was worth every penny and you cannot believe you contemplated doing it from a tower it will save you time, be massively safer. Have you thought of buying your own quick stage scaffolding. I bought £5000 worth and it will go for sale with a very little loss, so the hire cost over the time our build took will be insignificant.

Looks like a nice plot, i took a load of scrap down and was happy to just chuck it out, but the girl insisted I go on the weigh bridge, after I unloaded she gave me a cheque for £40, I couldn’t believe the scrap value of steel I thought it was hard to get rid of.

There ya go, no need for a new one, just a tidy up. I was told to never render any brickwork on the inside of anything, as if it falls off it will Block up pipes and things. You can probably buy a standard cover for that.

Smashing job, thanks for all the replies.

I boarded my ceiling in Australia with 6m boards, if I could buy them in this backwards country I would use them again.

Tried a coat of bitumen based waterproofing liquid, the foil tape didn’t stick well to this, but I haven’t tried any better tapes yet apart from the cheap nasty aluminium stuff.

Do the resilient bars run parallel with the joists or at 90 degrees to them, if 90 degrees then it won’t matter if you use a longer screw as they will never touch the timber.

Morning all. I need an airtight tape to cover the gap between my ceiling pir insulation and the inside wall face. The problem is my walls are EPS insulation and it’s this I’m finding hard to stick to, anybody found anything that likes to stick to eps.

Hessian for frost, dpm for rain, few loose blocks on top, job done.

Do not use chrome plated copper into a push fit connector, they blow off, the teeth inside the fitting cannot grip the chrome.

I’ve obviously lost my nerve

If it’s 3-4 days to get the insulation in 3-5 days for the steel 2 days for the ufh i would get everything on site do you ground preparation and then be very ready to start again on the 2nd jan, by the 20th you will be ready to pour, no point having a spoilt Christmas rushing around with a pump that has broken and trying to find a hire shop that is open. Now im very gung ho, but it would be a shame to spoil everything over a 3 week delay.

I did thanks, but forgot to reply. Trying to be a bit cautious with funds at the moment.

I was going to suggest a shadow bead, but I think the idea is to hide the door not emphasis it. I also think the original idea will break away at the corner.

You normally board the ceiling first, easier to cut walls neatly to ceiling, awkward to cut ceiling neatly to walls. Unless your having coving then you can leave a right ol mess as the coving covers it all.

Have you seen the MATT RISINGER videos on YouTube, lots of hidden door details.

What do you mean about levelling with a screw? Do you mean in and out, so not screwing tight if a board sits non flush.

Oh god, my brain can only think of one thing at once, I’m still procrastinating about floor insulation. Wall covering will be something to over think about @AnonymousBosch next year.