Russell griffiths

If you look up a couple on you tube called PURE LIVING FOR LIFE they are in America with terrible winters they have a mobile home but have built a timber lean to extension on the side of it. In there they keep all the boots, dogs, working clothes, washing machine, they have a good sized wood burner in it and this keeps it all very tropical. Have a look they really have it sorted. Dont follow any of their building practices as they are terrible and have made a hash of everything, but the caravan is good.

No I’m just a nutter. why did I just take out the three windows I had fitted and re, do them.

I have i joists for my roof, the designer said it was all within the standard deflection, I asked for it to be improved and less deflection. He asked why and looked baffled, I said I wanted it better, it took two different meetings to get my point across and get the deflection rate down to 6-7mm over 5m. Bear in mind this is a roof not your floor, so take this just as reference.

How can anybody be responsible for metal expanding, it’s what it does, all you can do is limit the sheet length and allow foe expansion in the fixings.

Nothing its metal, it expands in the heat and contracts in the cold. if It’s proper zink it should be fixed to allow for movement. Dipples, ripples and tarnishing are part of the character, go and have a look at an old zinc roof.

Morning @col57 is that right 30mm, so if you have a 16mm pipe for your ufh you only have 14mm coverage over the pipes. Im intrigued tell us more, I am looking at increasing my screed thickness as 50mm of a flowable screed is worrying me.

You can put a pipe boss on the stack before fitting the branch for the toilet why lift the shower if you don’t want to. Dont comprimise if you have come this far get it how you want it. Plan where you want your shower, chop a trench in the floor and get the pipe work in set it to the correct height to have the shower you want not the one you think you have to have.

That’s a large span from pile to pile. What size is the ring beam.

Hi. I will be asking about floor screeds soon, keep your eyes peeled.

All I can add is I would insulate it well. If you like TVR’s you will spend a lot of time in the garage.

I have fitted a mcalpine trap and have to say it was a very well thought out and built piece of kit. Not cheap but very well made.

I’m afraid I am a firm believer that the country and world is overpopulated however I try to keep my views on here to bricks and mortar.

I’m in a right mood, so I’m going to play devils advocate here. Nothing directed at you personally as I have no idea who you are. If a tree blows down and and hits the wires, then surely the tree owner should have taken better care of their trees, it is very rare for good trees to blow over, in over 30 years of being on emergency call out for a number of London boroughs, I can say that most times you look at a fallen tree it has a defect. So should the dno put all their lines undergound so to avoid land owners dodgy trees. Point 2, if the truck delivering your chip falls off the track the surely the track was inadequate to hold that vehicle. Who owns the track, why would a driver go down a track he believes is not fit for purpose. You say it is highly possible, then that is negligent on your part to expect a driver to use it, if you put the building there then you need to supply adequate access for the chip to be unloaded in a safe manner. If these lines where in place when you purchased the land then ho hum. A friend of of mine has paid £60,000 to get power to his plot recently, he knew it would be a pain and so bargained accordingly.

Would it not just be easier to have less people. The whole world is overpopulated

Whilst the holes in the panels are elongated, you need to make sure the fasteners are not hammered in to tight so as to allow movement.

Have you looked at a similar product from a co called metal solutions, we looked at tata but I wasn’t happy with the fixing method. The metal solutions one has a stainless steel clip so the sheet can move under the fixings, the tata one is fixed directly through the sheet. Tbh any metal roof will expand and contract. Have a look at a zink roof they can have a few ripples.

Have you looked at what other neighbours have done ? any reason for not going the whole width across the back.

Done dozens, you will need a set of drawings for building control so either local architect who has worked on the same type of property, or a structural engineer. Do it right and hide any steel work in the floor void so it doesn’t encroach downstairs if this is too costly then you will have probably a 225-250 minimum beam showing in the downstairs room. That is a massive guess without further information.

Illbruck look on you tube for product reference I think it is something like 925 but check this as they have loads of products all with a number as the product name.

@willbish please see my amended post.

@scottishjohn you are spot on with your bitumin comments. I have been working all day fretting that I had written the wrong word in my post and nearly came home half way through the day to edit it. So my previous post had said I used a bituminous paint to seal my icf reveals. THIS IS INCORRECT i used a water based waterproof and gas proof paint, it is completely safe on eps whereas bitumen or any solvent based product must not be used. Please check the compatibility of a product before you install it.

What I meant was instal a beam on top of the wall but not imposing a load onto the wall, beam runs front to back, and doesn’t touch the wall. So air gap between wall top plate and beam, cross joists for mezzanine sit on beam not wall, no loads going down all go onto beam which is fitted to front and back walls.

I have given all the reveals 2 counts of solvent free waterproof and gas proof type paint.

Can you chop the height of the wall down and install a timber beam on top of it 5.8 is a big span.

I am just fitting my windows and decided I wanted to avoid any window tape as I thought it looked a right pain, on the advice from NORSKEN windows I have used a system made by TREMCO ILLBRUCK it is a two part process first you use there airtight foam FM330 if I remember correctly, you let this dry and trim it back flush, you then use an air sealing paste that comes in a tube, you squirt this all over the foam just like silicon. However the clever bit is it has a very low viscosity so you get a 20mm wide paint brush and pull it gently down so it spreads all over the foam, you can get your finger in the corners and smooth it out, you can brush it all around the brackets making a complete seal. I am very very very impressed with the product and the reduced cost compared with tape. I am generally a hard arsed very hard to please bloke, but i am seriously impressed with this stuff. I think i have spent £220 on sealing up all my windows, and they are huge, my average window is 2.6 wide by 1.8 high so a fair distance around them.