Russell griffiths

The problem I’ve seen in these situations isn’t having sufficient bearing of the concrete lintel onto brickwork below, it’s the condition and location of the lintel onto small pieces of badly secured brickwork. cutting a hole up through a wall could end up with the lintel sitting on a small cut piece of brick instead of a full brick. removal of the plaster is needed as is proper placement of the opening or removing any small slithers of brick and replacing with full or half bricks minimum.

Some of our building regs are bloody ridiculous

It looks like there is all little melted bits of lead that have dripped onto the roof covering surely molten lead should not drip on to a rubber roof, or am I being OTT

Minimum bearing for a concrete lintel is 150 each end I believe.

Has been said above patination oil vertical joins are there for expansion but, that is a shit job, the creases should not be there, and why the flipping hell has he done it over the roof membrane without covering it. im not impressed with it to be honest.

How about a build hub local support network I’ve met a local lad building similar to me, we meet up once a month and drink tea and walk around his build, as I’m a couple of years in front of him I’ve been able to point out some things that worked well and some that didn’t. we have all been able to exchange some left over materials and also lend / borrow some tools. since meeting a couple of years ago we have also been out to the pub a couple of times with the wives. it’s handy to find someone in a similar situation who feels the pain you might be going through. I know it helped his wife to come to ours as she could see that there is actually light at the end of the tunnel, even if it’s just a distant glimmer. im in Cirencester if anybody wants a coffee or wants me to pop in and offer encouragement.

I would look at a multi tool blade that is longer than standard with a tungsten edge to it go under the cill and plunge in for the full depth then cut out the mastic under the window. good luck.

The way your describing is fairly serious as though you think there’s some gunk in there, if you stop loops 1-11 does the flow gauge on 12 not start to move. having the whole system going through 1 loop should really whoosh it around. or have you done that.

My windows by norrsken spin right around I’m not sure if that’s exactly what you want, but I’ve been nothing but impressed with them since fitting 4 years ago.

In that case I would check it has been built according to the drawings that picture shows 2 or 3 top plates with no support under them, it could well be the picture angle but from my angle that timber sitting under the top plate is not sitting on top of any studs and is just floating there. do you have a picture of the studs supporting the timber over that opening. if the timber that is on its side is knotched into the studs then that is the support, but from the inside aspect it looks like they are just nailed in. better to be safe than sorry after it’s all been covered up.

@ToughButterCup go indoors you fool, do the jobs inside, it will be spring in a blink of an eye come outside then. follow me for more insightful tips #sillybilly #nofoollikeanolfool

@Nickfromwales one for you.

That looks like the cheapest polythene you can get. if it’s a warm roof shouldn’t the vcl already have gone in under the insulation. is this the same builder that didn’t seal up all the roof area that you had to redo. and the same one that built the timberframe I questioned a section of your timberframe saying it was wrong but you didn’t reply to that bit. if it is then you need a new builder.

You can get a handheld version get that fora day as a tester. what are you actually try to achieve.

I looked into it, but you are limited to only a few designs as the machines have a certain shape jaw for forming the shape it’s a bit dated so might fit a traditional build, but not anything modern unless you find someone with different profile jaws.

You can get a self leveling compound designed for forklift traffic in warehouses I don’t know what it looks like, probably grey and boring looking if that what you are looking for. you could do one room with expansion gap at a door way as a tester.

Exactly that, you answered your own question.

The cables will probably come out into the back of a rotary isolator, so you won’t see those as there’s a big box over the cable holes. the pipes will have pipe insulation over them so again the hole in the timber will have a substantial lump of insulation covering it. flow and return pipe individually communication cables on their own supply gables one hole per supply to each isolater the holes for the pipes should be about 75mm so the insulation goes all the way through the wall, don’t but it up to the wall or you will be heating the core of the wall up.

Are you going to get the original building cleaned up a bit.

Lovely brickwork @BadgerBodger

Cross over behind the chimney and run up the side of the dormer.

Your builder still thinks it’s 1980. break at dpc for me.

Only if it leaks, mcalpine products don’t leak if fitted well. what’s your other choice, don’t pack the toilet up more than 3-4 mm it will look proper turd.

Flush it see what happens IMPO the whoosh of the pan emptying will send all stuff well past that pan connector, then gravity takes over with a bit of momentum from the flush. nothing will come backwards.

Get them to re do it, or don’t pay.