Nestor

I had quotes from Nuheat and settled for Wunda, kit is very good quality and they provide drawings. And a lot cheaper.

Thanks for this, about to order kit for kids bathrooms, found this: same drop as yours? https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/hudson-reed-round-ceiling-arm-300mm-length-chrome-arm16?campaign=googlebase&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgq3L69jw4AIVBZPtCh3iVwMlEAQYASABEgL9uvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I started with a double extension ladder and since starting the build now have 3 Glass fibre step ladders, one step up and a single section 4.5m roof ladder. All from here : https://www.laddersukdirect.co.uk

Update from BCO : Email below Thanks everyone, @Barney12 @JSHarris @Carrerahill "The installation details seems to suggest that the SVP can be provided from the inlet to remove the need to vent externally. The vent should be on the inlet side. An AAV internally will be acceptable internally".

@JSHarris @Carrerahill @Barney12 Reply from the BCO below. Shall I mention having an external vent near the treatment plant? "Normally the head of the run will still require venting to external air as is shown in the picture of the drain run as this is the only vent on the property an AAV is not acceptable unless there is any guidance from the treatment plant supplier confirming different. This is probably not want you wanted to hear."

@JSHarris @Carrerahill Thanks for your replies. I did look at this thread you had contributed to. Yes I do want to avoid cutting holes in the roof. Gable end vent could work though its very close to Velux windows. Or could put AAV at the top of stack in roof space above the 1st floor bathroom and venting at the end of the foul drain run near the Vortex treatment plant. Do you T off the soil pipe just before it gets to the treatment plant? I will contact the BCO.

I need to cut a hole through the Tata Urban seam roof which I have been a bit reluctant to do. Can anyone recommend collars / flashings which would work best with the roof, Thank you.

Hi there, very happy so far with the roof. I chose it because I could fit myself and it was within my budget. Lots of other options on the Forum here.

I just used Turbo gold PZ wood screws but someone mentioned the Glue! Gloves essential otherwise it remains on your hands for weeks...have fun, first floor really makes working a lot easier.

Thats how I did our first floor. Caberdek P5 22mm. I put the floor down before the roof. All ok.

For my self build I have the Dewalt DWS780 mitre saw, Makita 18V drill, impact driver, circular saw, jig saw, grinder, multitool and Senco DS5550 Cordless for fixing OSB and plasterboard. All been faultless.

Hi Russell Sorry for the delay, only just seen your post. For my Tata roof they supplied, 3 tools. Eaves closer, Stubai pliers and Flange mate. I also bought left and right off set tin snips. Best bit was Makita 136mm 30 tooth metal blade for circular saw, I cut all the panels with this.

I have 3 manifolds. one 6, 7, and 8 port. 2 manifolds cover about 84sqm each and the other about 120sqm. All from Wunda, good kit.

Thank you Nick, I hoped you would reply. I look forward seeing your results.

Advice needed please. Have a 22mm Caberdek on the first floor and plan to have a Wet room bathroom with UFH and a waterproof concrete floor. No UFH under the shower former at the moment. Is it possible to put a 20 -30mm screed on top of Wunda EPS with a Impey waterguard membrane between the two. Any info would be much appreciated.

Just found this, I even made a a post.....

Can anyone advise, Have a single storey vaulted ceiling kitchen, dining room which has OSB on the inside (Warm roof). Our plan is to finish with sheets of 8x4 plywood. Do I have to fit plasterboard first? The BC mentioned the kitchen ceiling requires National Class 1 for surface spread of flame rating. BC also mentioned using fire retardant varnish. Does the plywood need fire rating as well?

Seems familiar. Carried in 150 sheets of 12mm plasterboard last week and now have to fix to walls and ceilings (shoulders screaming). I would say I feel stronger having started my build in March 2017, my knees were very sore for months but now far more stable and pain free. At 54 I try not to rush and take risks especially working on ladders and scaffold, consider every lift and ask for help if possible. @scottishjohn I have the drywall lifter, excellent kit.

@ProDave @nod I did see your thread and your oak cill and trim, looks great. We want a flush finish similar to the photo. Its the join between PB and MDF which bothers me. I could just use PB and angle bead, maybe some hardiebacker board for more stability. Will ask the plasterer as well.

Advice required as I have started plaster boarding and have fitted a moulded 25mm mdf window board. Now would like a flush cill with no return or overhang and wondering if this can be achieved using cut down mdf board or best using plasterboard as a cill (not as hardwearing). Just wondering about the join between plasterboard and mdf for the skim coat. Photos enclosed.

Thats the right video to remove the sash from the frame, follow these exact instructions. As @PeterW said once Top hung installed push up as far as possible and the springs will engage. Depending on the pitch of your roof you can adjust the spring tension. Anything less than 45 degrees you will need to make an adjustment. Inside the frame is a tab which you lift and move down, on both sides. This video at 23 mins shows this and also how to disengage the springs.

I think you need to disengage the springs. Screwdriver inside the side of the frame and click upwards. https://www.jjroofingsupplies.co.uk/blog/good-roofing-guide/videos/ They have clear instructions. .

Hi Ed, I fitted 7 Velux in the summer and initially had the same problem. The instructions are not very clear or detailed.. Are these Top hung or centre pivot, this is what Velux sent me. Disengaging GPL_GPU Springs.pdf I found a video online which was much clearer. Will look.

I did go and look at the Euroclad in Cardiff, great product, similar price to Tata, but you do need to rent a seamer tool at £290.00 per 2 weeks if installing yourself. The finish is similar to Tata, up close you can see the pattern on the coating. in no way does it look plasticky once it is on. I am in a National Park, showed them both Euroclad and Tata, they chose tata but what do they know? My advice is choose another colour than anthracite........ it really does depend if you are fitting yourself and budget. I have 300+ sqm to fit, have fun.

Hi Russ, FYI Tata Urban Colorcoat was about £36.00 sq/m in 06/17 once you included eaves, ridge and verge and delivery.....