tombo8383

The tool is brand new so no chance of any debris or dirt in there. Perhaps the change of grease might help. I’ll also try leaning a little harder on it. Funny thing to try to explain, as it’s definitely the resetting and reciting that’s not happening every time. Explains why it works if I drop it into the concrete. thanks for your advice

Hi, Rather a strange question. I have purchased a new semi professional concrete breaker as i have around 20m2 of concrete slab to break up (120mm thick approx). I have used a similar one before and had the same issue. When i press the trigger and drop the sharp pointed breaker onto the concrete it sort of vibrates softly for a few seconds and then sporadically bursts into life giving the full breaking effect. It sort of goes between being very fierce and effective and the just whirring, with the max vibrating going on and off. I'm trying to work out how the tool actually works, whether its a weight that rotates inside or something. I know there is nothing wrong with the machine itself, but i need to know the knack to using it. Are there any tips to getting it to do the heavy breaking all the time such as picking it up and dropping it down constantly? exhausting but that is the only way i've managed to get it to work so far. Seems a daft question to ask, but i'm sure there must be a knack to using it correctly. I've attached a picture of what I'm using. Cheers Tom

I did think about using them on their side, but assumed this wouldn't be sufficient. What did you use for lintols when you built using your 70mm concrete blocks? Thanks Tom

Hi, I'm in the process of renovating a 1950's bungalow. I have a few other topics in other areas of the site and i'm getting amazing responses and advice from people. Many thanks... The internal walls of the property are 75mm blockwork, the external leaf is normal brickwork. I'm planning lots of changes to the internals which would involve putting in new lintols to make new openings for rooms. Nowadays blockwork would be close to 100mm so a new concrete lintel off the shelf would work fine, but in this case they would obviously be too wide. Most of the openings in the house above the windows are timber lintols and above the doorways appear to be nothing (i'm guessing they build the blockwork into the doorsets and the door sets will be load bearing. It is only 1 or 2 blocks on top of the lintols so next to no weight, but obviously i'll have to install something to take the weight above where i make new openings? Do they make 75mm wide lintols? Thanks for any advice or tips Tom

I do want to move it, but currently it’s around a metre off centre of the span of the purlin. Convenient for the bedroom wall. I want to build the new wall exactly in the middle of the span so perfectly distributing the load.

Just an update: I have a dig today and there is some sore of concrete footing underneath the wall currently. Does anyone know very roughly the sort of depth that would be required for a new wall internally? Surely not 1m? I will obviously consult Building Regs, but trying to plan ahead.

Hi, I’m in the process of fully renovating a 1950’s bungalow. One part of the project is dealing with an internal blockwork wall which is running from below floor level - 400mm below suspended timer floor directly off compacted hardcore, all the way up to the loft area, then switching to bricks and supporting the purlin (hipped roof). I’d like to rebuild this wall 1m further right at the centre of the span of the purlin, and then remove the original wall, but I’m unsure of what will be required to build a new blockwork wall off. I’m planning to remove the entire timber suspended floor and infill with a new insulated solid floor (with UFH). Will be a great time to rebuild this wall, in a more convenient location to take the weight of the purlin and knock down the old blockwork wall. The current load bearing wall seems to be built off compacted hardcore under the floor. I’m assuming that Building regulations will require me to cast some sort of concrete foundation to take the new 100mm blockwork wall, but surely they won’t require it to be 1m deep excavation? I’ll obviously go off what the BRegs require, but would like to know if it’s feasible to rebuild the wall off more shallow foundations than 1m? photo1 - In loft, the purlin being supported by the brickwork, which is sitting on the blockwork wall I’d like to rebuild. photo2 - the blockwork wall photo3 - under the suspended floor showing brickwork off compacted hardcore, switching to blockwork above floor level, going back to brickwork in the loft space directly under the purlin. thanks for any advice or tips Tom

Thanks for all your comments. I’ll be looking into Wundatrade once they are back open again.

Many thanks for your replies. In response to the zones. Why would you not want a lot of zones? At the moment I have a 4 bed bungalow with 8 zones. Bed 1 & En-suite, bed 2, bed 3, bed 4, kitchen, lounge, hallway, bathroom. This isn’t a good idea?

I'm looking to install a brand new Wet UFH system in a renovation I'm doing. It's a large bungalow with a suspended floor. We will be filling in the suspended floor with a new concrete insulated floor, so a perfect time to install UFH. I'm after some advice on brands? I'm not looking to do the job on the cheap so i'm after advice on the best brands for the 15mm lay flat pipe (John Guest? etc) / Uponor / Rehau and some advice on the best pumps, actuators, manifolds etc? I'm sourcing everything myself and installing everything apart from the boiler (done by my plumber). I'm looking at the Heatmiser system for the thermostats too - any experiences or better brands? I really want to use the best materials as it will be our family home for a long time. Thanks in advance. Tom