Nestor

@MJNewton It has been functioning fine since February at 30% so I will balance the system best as possible and input the needed figures for the BC. Back to the cedar cladding....

@MJNewton P.S. Try and stick to one set of units; it gets really confusing swapping between the two! Will do. Found it all a bit confusing. Target is 80 L/s for each. At 100% boost I have : Extract 93.30 L/s Supply 76.65 L/s So it is possible with reducing the extract but might miss the 20 L/s for the sitting room. Its very close. I think the Vent Axia is near its limitations.

Yes the 80l/s is for the whole house. The 20 l/s for the sitting room seems unachievable even running at 100%. The Vent Axia Kinetic Plus has a maximum of 500m3/h. Do I add both the supply and extract m3/h flow rate as this would exceed the capability of the MVHR.

@worldwidewebs Hi there, can you offer any advice? I have the same Vent Axia from BPC in a similar size property. About 270sqm and need to achieve 80l/s flow rate for the size of house. Extract is achievable but even on 100% boost struggling to meet the supply targets especially in the sitting room (20l/s) Did you find a solution?

Might be some help.

@Conor We had 18 Kastrup windows supplied and fitted in 2018 and large Internorm slider. Kastrup Natur E++, 3G, outward opening, hinged on the side. Timber on the inside, UPVC then Alu on the external face. I think well made though had the glazing replaced on 12 windows due to visible roller marks. The hinge does not hold the window when open in a fixed position if a light wind. Simple adjustment screw on the hinge but not perfect. We had a price for Rationel from a local supplier but 30% more expensive, the Kastrup seemed a more substantial product.

@Donegalsd I can only advise from limited experience. It is simple to move the DIP switch SW2-4 to cooling mode and reduced the flow temperature to 12c. We only have wired thermostats in each room so had to manually change to call for heat, eg, if internal room temp was 26c the thermostat had to be changed to a minimum 27c for it to switch on the pump. It's a rather clumsy way of going about it. Does that make sense, others here will probably have a better explanation and method.

Do you just run the stop end bead past the PB across the edge of the door lining or run the PB with stop end across the door lining?

@Cpd

Is it the patio heater craze?

New self build, about 280sqm, Had 8.5 Ecodan supplied and fitted for £8514. Just filling out the RHI application. Payments over 7 years £6370. Will depend on your EPC. Many have self fitted similar system.

Hi Pete, Can you let us know how you get on with this product. Is a wearing course mean suitable as a final floor covering, foot traffic only. I might do a test and add some small stones to then grind back. Also do you know of an additive to change the colour of the product, maybe a grout?

@Nickfromwales Been running the UFH at 45c today, no loud noises. The final floor has not been laid yet and a crack has appeared in the screed. Also 3 loops provide the heat for that room and I notice the return pipe on one of the loops is not warm like the other 2. The floor area in part of that room is not warm. Flow gauges are all open as have auto balancing actuators on the return. I might remove the actuator and replace with a white return valve manual head and see if the water flows through that loop.

The flow temperature at the bar is 55c so I will adjust the blend valve down to 45c, Wunda mentioned thermal shock when introducing heat into the slab. Will observe the flow gauges, thanks.

I bled all 3 manifolds last week, it takes a while with 21 loops. I installed it all last year as has been working fine, no noise etc. All Wunda components and the instructions all helpful.

Hi Nick, I switch the UFH heating on in the main living space and after about half an hour while the manifold is still providing heat a loud pop / bang within the floor happens. Could I have too much pressure in the loops or air? I have just opened the air bleed points, no air just water.

@PeterW @Nickfromwales @Russell griffiths Can you advise, my UFH has been off since March and I decided to top up all the loops on the 3 manifolds before we switched the heating on for the autumn / winter as one was gurgling a bit in the spring. Have had the ground floor on and have had some huge pops / bangs in the 50mm Anhydrite screed. The pressure gauge on the manifold is reading 1.2 bar and on the front of the Ecodan cylinder 1.5 bar. At the end of. each flow and return manifold are these, it it a bleed valve. What have I done??

I have a similar build up to your own drawing except used 3 layers of Rockwool Flexi in my wall build up, 140, 70 and 50. Very good fit, easy to cut and not to toxic. . I had a 40mm layer of t&g Pavatex on the outside. No blockwork, just cladding. The first floor joists sit on the walls, no joist hangers with a similar detail to your original drawing. Very solid, no squeaks or movement. I felt it provided a very stable platform to add the first floor walls. Have fun.

I would recommend the P5 Film coated Caberdek + D4 Glue and screws. No squeaks. As @PeterW says 18mm or 22mm depending on your joist width. Remove the film after plastering.

I watched the Greencoat video which shows the forming machine. A lot of people had issues with Tata a few years back trying to place orders. Do you mind sharing the cost of the Greencoat fitted per sqm, PM if you prefer.

The Tata is more of a quick fit system due to the pre pressed seam. The panels are super smooth on delivery but once you start fitting the profile over the receiver panel and belt it with a hammer and block of wood it oil cans. Initially I was a bit disappointed but now the panels are so matte that a it gives the roof a bit of definition in different light. The Greencoat is a more traditional seamed roof, looks a very nice product. It goes on very quick once you have set eaves and verges. I still have another 72sqm of garage roof todo and a wall. Next year.....

I taped only the vertical joins and around the windows. The batten holds the membrane down flush. The Protect was about £55 for 50m x 1.5m and I needed 4 rolls to cover all the walls. The manufacturer states it should be covered within a month. What type of SS roof are you having as I fitted the Tata Colorcoat Urban?

I have just replaced all the Protect VP300 breather membrane after being exposed for 3 years to start cladding. It was starting to flake on the south facing side. It was still waterproof. Though If the wind gets up and starts creasing the membrane it can fail. I have some on the garage roof on top of OSB and after a year no change. If in doubt due to the relative low cost replace it but I would not expect any significant change after only a few months.

The cost of melamine, bagged concrete, sealer, wire mesh, PIR board, grinder and discs was about £650. And a few boxes of beer for the heavy lifters.

@joth trying to understand how this all works. You are planning to use the cooling function from the ASHP to pass cold water through the unit which is fixed on a wall to cool the room. Do just tee off from the heating circuit into the unit and how do you stop the rest of the house being cooled? I have UFH with 3 manifolds. The price is very good, was AC an option for you ?