Cpd

I am needing to replace a bath with a shower at parents house, the existing plumbing is bad as the waste cannot be any lower than it is which is a couple of inches of the floor..... this means that the shower tray will need to be raised of the ground on a plinth. The layout of the bathroom suggests that the best shower will be a 900 x 1200 quadrant design. I had narrowed my search down to a CORAM tray and glass surround (I have used them before) but there is a supply issue and it looks like at least 3 weeks until they are restocked. I like the Coram tray as it has two big upstands at the back that I can bring my wall boards down over and adjusting feet that gets me above the waste, it’s a known product for me as I fitted one in my cabin a few years ago and it’s still going strong. I am sure there are loads of people on here who have fitted showers and I was looking for a brand recommendation for a tray and surround. The big issue is the tray as it needs to be raised and i don’t want something really heavy as I would have to rip up the floors and add supports etc. Anyway I am trawling the web and will go into various builders merchants but if someone knew a solution / combination that was readily available and could RECOMMEND it that would be reassuring. Thanks cpd. the picture is random but it is what I am looking for BUT with a raised tray and a know recommended brand.

yup...... this is me as well though I have two supplies to two Main Consumer Units and three separate dwellings..... in total five adults and three children on site and at least two guests for four months solid over summer. average electric Bill per year is £2500. I think given that I also have a cabin that I rent out over summer where guests don’t try to save electric ..... my yearly bill is not as bad as it could be.... hopefully as the buildings become insulated and dry the bills will fall..... I keep telling myself it can only get better.......

Hay @trialuser only just seen this..... been securing everything outside as we are in the middle of a good old storm..... I looked at various fixings and read various reviews and would say without a doubt that the tek screw is the way to go. They are seriously robust, galvanised with a nice chunky thread and WILL not shear or cause you a problem. The washers are perfectly good a creating a very good seal but as with everything you need to get in the swing of using them. From memory I drilled my holes before screwing down, when you screw down you need to go steady and apply pressure to the tin with one hand while the screw goes in, this stops the tin riding up the thread of the screw (my drilled holes were small, just big enough for the threads to grip but not so big that the screw could be pushed in) the aim is to compress the washer by half but definitely not so it’s squashed flat ! If you overdo it it’s best to take the fixing out and start again (rather that just backing the fixing of a bit) as the washers do not bounce back after over tightening and a trashed washer is not going to do it’s job. After the fixing is done just give the tin a thump above or below the washer to check that the tin has actually gone all the way down to the batten, you WILL sometimes see that the tin has actually risen up the thread of the washer and the thump will send the tin home and then you can adjust the fixing. Drilling the holes in the tin helps to prevent this and a slightly bigger drilled hole would eliminate this but I did not like the idea of oversized holes..... it’s probably nonsense as if the water gets past the washer then it will work it’s way into the thread hole anyway... but in my mind I think a fixing tightly fitted into the tin was better... so drill, fix, thump.... move onto the next on. The caps are easy to fit, I usually give them a tap with a small rubber mallet just to make sure they are sitting snugly. The fixings are obvious but done well they look really good, get you lay out wrong and you end up with fixings all over the place and it suddenly looks shite.... you really do need to plan where your fixings are going to fall BEFORE putting the tin on the roof. Remember you can loose the top fixings right up at the top of the roof below the ridge (also these go in the valley of the tin as they are hidden by the ridge) but don’t place them where the rubber weather strip will go..... ok think that’s it......

Watch this space.......

If your not going to have a use for it after the job then hiring is the way to go, otherwise get one that is a dedicated breaker as the ones that are a drill / breaker are NOT designed for continuous braking...... the warranty people will tell you they are primarily a drill with the capacity to do limited breaking.... And they won’t cover the repair. (This is from my own experience but may not be universal) when it’s a dedicated breaker you can use it like a mad man and then simply hand it back when it breaks and get it fixed under warranty, but this can be frustrating if your only half way through the job.... I would get an sds max breaker for that as they are much lighter all round And Capable for that job and more. I used to buy matabo Sds max breakers in Australia as they had a big 3 year warranty And if I needed 4 I would by 6 and just assume that two would be at the repair shop at all times.....

I am another “guilty as charged” when it comes to using a digger without a seat belt while on my own property, I used to use them on a daily basis back in Australia for work and it was just standard practice to put them on, the only difference I can think of is back in Australia you always had someone on the ground to avoid the need for you to be constantly jumping in / out and it was just part of the many safety protocols that needed to be adhered to while working on A professional site.

Same here..... 2.5 miles to the nearest paved road - 3 miles to the nearest street light and 3.5 miles to the nearest shop...... great stuff.

Is this a reference to ebay ?

Totally agree, i am outside from 7.30am to 5,30pm and then often pottering in the garden / walking in the evening. I set my electric heating to 16c and am happy at that as I can’t sleep comfortably with it much hotter, If the weather is great then I don’t mind it hotter as long as the windows are all open. I’m sure I could get used to it hotter but need to constantly watch my electric usage......

I will be building a small section of haha wall in the upper reaches of my garden, I have an existing fence in place at the moment to keep sheep out, ( i will be removing the section Of fence between the two big posts) the idea is to convert the grassy area in the foreground into a lowered stone flagged seating Area with fire pit and bbq facilities. The site faces west and gets incredibly sunsets. the aim is to give guests a real sense of being right in the middle of the landscape without looking over a wire fence,

Just be aware that Proctors roofshield and some others will become quite useless if while exposed to the weather they get wet and then freeze, it’s that time of year when this is going to be a potential problem..... I talk from experience on this one....?

Really don't like it...... looks like an abandoned construction site.... like he is building some fancy glass lookout and put his temporary work cabins to close, and then ran out if money And left the cabins and all the unfinished steelwork ..... sorry to be critical but this really is not my thing.

I have a BIG septic tank that was installed a long time ago and I have no intention of emptying it any time soon...... I have lived on another property where the septic tank had never been emptied and again it seems to be all about size Of tank and volume of waste going into it.... big tank, small volume of waste = empty once in a blue moon.

Is so 50mm between the rafters will be pitiful If that’s all there is going to be. When I did my roof I put 4 vents at the top where there was a big uninsulated area (Triangle ) below the ridge that all the rafters were open to (50mm air gap below the sarking and above the 190mm of insulation) and the vents worked well as I got lots of air movement up between the rafters in the gap. I also had soffit vents at the base of each rafter to help get air in. All in all it’s worked great and the roof is bone dry.

If the sarking is wet I lay it without gaps as when the roofing membrane goes on the boards Start to dry out and shrink And you then have your gaps. My local builders merchants keep the sarking outside and as it’s the west coast of Scotland the sarking is always wet ! it’s quite alarming how much shrinking you can get.

I have a great one that was recommended from someone on here, will have a look tomorrow and post up.

I had some larch off cuts from my cladding and put them through the planer And made a walkway with them between two rooms that were build at ether end of a shed up in the roof. I used a two part floor varnish and it worked great, holding up really well with lots of use. The varnish really brought out the colour.

in my experience it’s very forgiving stuff, I am afraid I have never used pea gravel or sand on my own property.... I always make sure the trench bace is very Clean and at the exact fall by checking with a laser, lay the pipe and hold down with big stones, fill in around it with whatever I have available or what’s come out of the trench. When the pipe is secure I remove the big stones and complete the fill in process, the only place I would pay special attention to is where pipes cross a driveway or yard / anywhere I might be driving over it with a landrover and a 3-4 ton trailer. I also use washing up liquid .......

As above, if it’s not you doing the work I would look at a solution that provides the least amount of opportunity to go wrong. Yes tongue and groove is good and will help but you still have so many locations where it could fail, top, bottom, windows, doors , corners, services.... the list goes on and on. It’s just my personal view as I have read and seen so many installations done badly with no easy fix to solve it. It’s still my number one insulation and I will continue to use it but it’s all work I am doing myself so know I am getting a pukka job.

Having nearly done half my house with ridged board PIR i realise that it must be nearly impossible to install it REALLY WELL on a commercial basis, it just takes so much time and effort to get it 100% right. It’s so obvious that should you get it wrong it will DRAMATICALLY reduce in its performance, And should air be able to get round the back of the board / on the warm side And flow it would render the insulation virtually useless. I have gone for cutting, foaming and taping in multiple layers and the result is fantastic ..... but I have gone seriously OCD And if I put a cost to my time it would be loony asylum stuff for me.

It’s been a pleasure watching this unfold from start to end and you have done an amazing job, it’s a really great build, I love it’s simplicity and the way it fits into the landscape, your attention to detail and very orderly way it progressed. Give yourself a pat on the back. Bravo

Hi and welcome, not far from you either, no new build for me.... into the renovation Of various buildings on my plot..... and living a somewhat alternative lifestyle / retreatIng form mainstream..... And generally enjoying my days while trying to be productive..... best of luck.

I did my own roof from scratch, got loads of old west coast slate for virtually nothing , me and my dad re cut all the edges with traditional slaters axes..... I then laid them in diminishing lengths to the top of the roof...... it took me months and months........ and months ? ..... it seemed fun at the time but All subsequent roofs on the property have been tin......

shortage Of sarking in the oban / Argyll area.

I Have just done something similar and put A small inspection chamber in one pipe run and a Potential rodding point in another, I am far from an expert but liked the idea that should something go wrong I had the ability to see it and be able to sort it out without having to dig it up. I assume you can rod from the brew shed if required.