Cpd

I recently insulated a room in the roof of my shed and filled between the joist with rockwool batts and then put 50mm of kingspan below the joists, foamed and glued joints and then covered the whole lot with osb. Not sure if this is best practice but it works great.

Surely function is more important than the visuals in this situation... the Velux are on the roof so I can’t see how the aesthetics will clash with the gable end window. I have 4 velux in my roof and they have nothing in common with my gable windows and it all looks good. Maybe I have not understood your plan.... but i would be placing them where they best serve the occupants.

You had a plan - lowering the floor and building a green roof. that plan is now shot as you don’t want to lower the floor due to cost. you need to go back to the drawing board and start again as your now trying to get a square peg into a round hole. I think by starting to replan with the new restraints you could come up with a better option. Also take on board what Russell has said about the existing design not being best practice. I had a similar situation and had to go down the underpinning route.....

Like you I am not sure if it’s “wrong” but I lined my cabin shower room in wood as I also love wood ! Been in for 6 years and no problems.

Welcome to the forum, Sounds like the worst possible situation and I find it so hard to understand how this could happen, I hope someone on the forum is able to provide you with some good information. Can you elaborate on how you came to own the plot in the first place ?

If i can access the void I often partially fill it with off cuts of Calotex and then foam around that, not sure about specific gap sizes.

I am not trying to give you a hard time just showing a different approach to this situation, I run a cabin that I rent out to tourists and have had over 100 reviews and ALL of them are 5 star reviews, the only comment I get regarding the loo and my very clear signage is from people who were not aware of the requirement to do this and the signage was helpful. Being the cleaner, handyman and everything else I am always very thankful when I go to clean the toilet area and it’s virtually spotless. Best sign I ever put up. I appreciate it’s not for everyone but as I said it’s just a different approach that works very well for me. Right I promise not to comment any more on this subject !

I have been through this and it drives me insane, my ex- partner continued to flush wipes and woman’s wares down the loo despite my insistence of how bad this practice was and it was not until I told her that next time the old pipes got blocked it would be her job to clean the blockage that she stopped the practice. It just beggars belief that some people are just so stubborn about best practice even when carefully educated on the subject..... rant over....

I only ever put the foam cleaner canister on when changing foam canisters just for a quick flush through before putting on a new canister so luckily not had this problem, my biggest grumble is with the manufacture of some brands of foam canister where the joint between the foam canister and the bit of plastic on top of the canister with the male thread on is shite and if you bump the gun then it separates and you end up with a right bloody mess.....

I am not an expert but have hand cut a good few thousand natural slates and slated my own roof and a few others, my question is how does it work when the circle becomes tighter ? Do you NEED to cut every slate and if so what is going to be easier- natural or synthetic ? Once you know this it’s just a matter of finding the right texture/ colour. Hand cutting slates is a slow and tedious job and if being done by contractors could cost a whole lot of money. I have seen quite a few amazing conical roofs made from natural slate and they are just beautiful when done well, I had hoped to build one myself but after cutting thousands of slate for my own standard roof I have decided I have better things to do with my time and will look at using metal instead. Pictures are just a couple of internet grabs and show what looks like bespoke slate cutting to get the desired result - a serious undertaking on a roof of you size.

Despite rigid insulation’s poor acoustics properties it’s not as bad as I thought, I went to great lengths to make sure my insulation was all foamed and taped at multiple levels and I think this probably helps. I have then got osb on the inside and am still not at the point of plasterboard but when I do I will use an acoustic one, see what it’s like with one layer and double up if required... but having spent time in the building without I am thinking one layer will be fine. When it rains your aware of the noice but it’s more a nice comforting sound as your happily inside ! Others with finished houses may have more info but for me I am happy.

That’s exactly what I did as I did not want the cold bridge from the uninsulated timber.

Oban would be my closest main centre.

Hi and welcome from a not very snowy west coast of Scotland, I also have a similar set up where I live on site with various buildings / cabins that I rent out, but i am starting from a very rundown staring point and have many years of work ahead of me before I get to a point where I can say the major work is done.....

Just adding a couple of pics of finished project as I was unaware I had not done so until another thread brought it to my attention. I put a heater in as well that comes on if the temperature drops to 3c and the funnels for draining the filters. it’s been in over well over a year now and it works great and there is nothing I would change. When flushing the system I use Milton disinfectant fluid and it’s very important to add a food dye to this fluid before putting it into the filter housings so that you can be sure of it’s distribution and to be able to see when it comes come out at various outlets. I tried various disinfectants but Milton works the best as it’s not to heavy and mixes in better with the water. had the water checked a couple of times by council and it passed both times.

Or as I have done build the housing with a removable lid so the uv lamp can be easily removed. The front of my box just lifts off and the lid is secured by just two screws.

I really don’t think you could do it any smaller... I have seen a lot of installations and mine is the smallest to date, just editing as you could take the pipework out of the box on the LHS and mount the UV control unit above and make the box a bit taller but thinner.

Living the dream mate I only set my heater to 13c and feel happy this morning as the temp is 14.4c (no need for a reply.... it just gets my goat that you whine about being cold all the time)

I put the callipers on the pipe and it was about 27mm compared to the 26mm I measured on the new blue pipe...... so at 1mm thicker I took the plunge and cut the pipe and then we had a right old time squeezing the 25mm fittings onto 27mm pipe..... got there in the end and no leaks. Next job.

Good afternoon hubbers, I need to brake into my main water line (private gravity fed supply) and install TEE fitting. The existing supply is old black pipe and the fitting that I have exposed says 3/4 - 20 i need to tee of onto blue 25mm pipe Does the 3/4 -20 on the fitting indicate that the black pipe is 20mm ? and if so is the only requirement a 20mm - 25mm adaptor ? I am hoping someone will reassure me before I go out and buy the wrong fitting ! thanks

Similar situation but it was a seagull stuck in my compost bin....... next time I will wear gloves.

I had this just the other day, I have a very well insulated room within an uninsulated building , the room had not been used for some time and I had not been in there during the long freeze, the other day I went in there and exterior temperature was up but the room was absolutely bloody freezing as the temp had slowly dropped over the cold period and as it was very well insulated it retained the cold long after the weather had warmed up..... I had to open the windows and doors to bring it to the same temperature as outside !

I have had the same problem in one of my houses, the joint that leaks on mine is just behind and up inside the chimney and will be a massive pain to fix.... it gets worse is very cold weather as more condensation builds up, it also gets a lot worse when the liner has not been cleaned for a while.... this is because the fire is not burnt hot enough by the occupant and soot builds up in the chimney and then as the chimney is not insulated (old stone chimney) condensation builds up runs down the inside of the liner, mixes with the soot and leaks out the dodgy joint.... and then runs down the outside and down my wall just like your photos ! The solution for mine would be. replace the liner And fill around it with vermiculite, try and get the users to but the fire hotter.

Remember to write us a review when you have used it fir a while so others can make a judgment if considering it.

Trying to tank with everything still in there ( loo - basin - bath ) just seems so wrong and quite likely to not actually work to the criteria you specify (bucket of water being frown onto floor)..... I think you need to step back and reevaluate what you actually want to achieve.