Conor

Set your doors on a strip of compact foam screwed down on to the concrete core with a dpc lapping over the top. Cut away the icf to the slab height, not the floor height.

Having full drive in drive out access for plant is a game changer. A 5tonne digger will have the stripped back and trenches dug for retaining walls in a day. Another day to pour a base for the wall (assuming RC), another day of shuttering and a pour for the walls themselves. I wouldn't skimp on the retaining wall at the back as you've a fairly substantial slope above it, in these cases you are just retianing to the height of the wall, but the extra load coming "down" the slope when it's wet. You might want a structural engineer for peice of mind. Then final levelling of the ground and reinstating. £5-7k. You'd nearly double that if you only had padestrian access.

What is access like for machinery? Could you approach the owner of the communal space about access? One of your biggest costs will be digging and mucking away. Because of your limited space you will want reinforced concrete retaining walls along the boundary edges at least. I'd budget £1k/m for the walls.l if they are over 1m. There are other more cost effective option, like interlocking blocks. From reading here, gabions aren't the most cost effective unless you have cheap / free infill and can do labour yourself. Is there scope to raise the height of the existing lawn? E.g. you can lose almost all of the spoilings by raising the garden up and having a small wall at the patio end.

Liquid screed, 40-50mm.

Linda for ducting. I did my design. Can't reccomend any units as both of my Saldas have failed.

PowerNI... So probably no use to you.

Not strictly true. You just need to provide your electric provider with the details they require - schematic, system capacity, details and a safety sign off. I'm getting 8.5p, better than nothing.

100% top quality virgin installation. Nothing you can do unless you fully excavate the cable back to the public side and install a duct with draw cord at a suitable depth. That's what we did and it still took multiple visits for them the actually put the cable through. (Issue was they had to dig down between their chamber and our pit - they don't like getting their hands dirty.)

BC won't care as long as the loadings have been accounted for in the design. Your DNO and electric supplier will, however. The installation will need to be signed off as safe and G98 compliant by a competent spark. But no requirement to be part of any scheme. My 5.2pKw in roof install cost about £5k. That includes the £600 for the sparks side of things. Prices have gone up a bit so im not sure you'll get it done for 1p/W. I installed the trays myself with help of the roofers. Fairly simple once you get your head around the battening requirements.

@PeterW is, like me, a genius. Firltted our outside tap this evening for filling a paddling pool, and fitted an isolating valve off the manifold so it will be out of reach children and magpies.

Might be a case of taking this on the chin and purchasing and installing the bracket yourself. Only a few quid and a couple screws. Somethings aren't worth the stress.

You'll need another page showing what the item is with something linking the two, e.g. order number. We had our staircase rejected as the I voice didn't describe the items enough. So we resubmitted with the order co formation sheet that had it fully detailed and had the same order ref and our details on it. Still going through appeal.

Check with your SE that it can take the extra loading. How did you find the liquid rubber? Messy? Considering it for our balcony instead of EPDM.

Massively depends on where you are, valley details, type of slate/tile etc. We paid £1ea for plain slates including fitting of membrane and lath. Large roof tho.

Take your tap feeds off between the main stopcock and your cold water manifold. Otherwise you'll be disappointed in the flow rates if coming via a 15mm manifold and pipe. Tee off your incoming 20/25mm pipe and run 25/20mm MDPE underground to each to location. You can get taps with integrated double check valves.

Another joke quote. These grants and shoddy predator installers are a real issue.

We're getting paving done and now the whole area is covered in dust. Plus load sof pollen from the Scotts pines across the road. Filthy. Our panels are three stories up and no way to clean them and no rain forecast for two weeks.

We had no bother sticking bitimous tapes or airtightness tapes directly to our EPS.

You don't need a passive house engineer. There's very little relationship between calculating the loadings of a building and insualtion. It's your architect that needs to be on the ball with things like efficient form, cold bridging etc.

If you heating flow temp is 45+ then you need to lower it. Ours runs at 32-35c. You'll gain a whack of efficiency by doing this.

What @TonyT Says. I had to spend the first day or so spraying our slab down as it was in full sun 20c+ weather. You'll know if its drying too fast when you see white patches forming and a crumbly / flaky surface.

Monday.

There are so few people in NI doing this, it's frustrating. I got in touch with Daly and Grant, don't think either got back to me. That's the reason why I went the DIY route. Designed the UFH in loopcad. There are many suppliers online that will do this for you as well, e.g. Wunda. It doesn't have to be done by the ashp supplier ) installer as it's kinda separate anyway, the ashp is just a heat source and the UFH is controlled separately normally. I also found it hard to actually get a heatpump. Ended up with a coolenergy. I used my plumbers and spark to connect up and commission the system. It's really easy as the only work needed was connecting the flow and returns the the buffer / cylinder, power supply and a data cable. Then turn the thing on. I took me a good year + of reading here, other places and just a lot of thinking time to come up with what we have now... And it works... And I'm happy and it's worked flawlessly and came in at under £9k finished.

For appliances I just teed off the feed in the kitchen. For us that was dishwasher and boiling water tap. A couple tees off the main feed to the kitchen tap would be enough.

A 3.5m alloy tower was one of my best build purchases. Can see it being used for odd jobs for years to come. The big advantage of hiring is that you've somebody that will pick up the phone and get that extra lift done or an extra bay. Ours put up a two lift bay in our stairwell for £50. No extra hire charge. If you have bought your own that kind of thing can be a pita to do if you don't have a fitting team at your beck and call. BUT .. you will need the scaffolding for rendering, roofing etc. You'll need it for many months unless you have managed to get everybody lined up and ready to go. We waited two months for roofer, three more for the renders. Think our total scaff bill was £9k.